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About DanoM

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    997 Carrera 4S Cabriolet
  • Former cars
    996 Carrera 4 Cabriolet
    Porsche Boxster

DanoM's Achievements


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  1. Thanks Loren. So it's common that multiple coil packs would fail at the same time - I wouldn't have guessed that. I'll get the car up on ramps to check the wires, etc.
  2. Sorry, meant to include the car details. It's a 2006 C4S Cab with 53K mile on the clock. Plugs were changed last year (~8K miles ago). No recent mods or changes to the car, car was fully fueled 3-4 days ago with a little over half a tank of it used at this point. A subsequent scan picked up a P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire. Starting it today, it's running much more rough than last night and backfiring if throttle is used.
  3. I've been reading through other posts on this topic and have an idea as to where to look but wanted some guidance in hopes of narrowing it down. I was driving home from an out of state meeting on the highway last night when suddenly the Visit Service Center message & Engine Icon popped up. I scanned temps and pressures and all looked normal and the car had been running fine and seemed to still be until I tried to apply power to pass a truck. I noticed a significant loss in power and rough engine. As it was very late, I decided to nurse it home and I ran an OBDII this morning. Here are the codes: P0300 Random Multiple Misfires P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire During my ride home, I pondered what the issue might be and was thinking coil pack, MAF, etc. Seeing the codes for multiple cylinders is making me think coil packs are unlikely (wouldn't all fail at once) and odd that it's in both banks. Being it's Friday and I need the car Monday I was trying to figure out what I could do this weekend to get it fixed and I don't want to go on a parts swapping binge (or worse yet have a P-Shop do it) and this could get expensive fast. Thanks in advance
  4. Update: I thought I would provide an update - so the $3100 estimated was including sales tax but the invoice was $2888.22 for parts and labor and it showed the following: 997-116-913-15 Set. Clutch $ 820.84 997-116-080-01 Release Bearing 65m $ 221.82 997-073-458-01 Screw 8x16 (6x $1.41) $ 8.46 997-073-092-02 Pan-Head Screw 10x50 (8x$2.45) $ 19.60 Misc. Charges $ 30.00 Labor $ 1787.50 $2888.22 (before tax) Suncoast has the Porsche 3-Piece kit for $679.95 (clutch, pressure plate and release bearing) and if I wanted to save more I could buy the Sach’s kit (who makes the clutch for Porsche) for a $100 less than that online. Clearly it is work that I cannot perform myself but almost $1800 for labor, $30 for screws and then the additional mystery $30 has me vowing that I take my car to an independent from now on.
  5. logray, I don't have a parts list yet. I did leave the car with them and authorized the work as I'm kinda stuck and need it back ASAP. I wouldn't be surprized if the actual bill comes in a little less as I've seen that before with them (I guess - prepare you for the worst so that when the bill comes in a couple hundred less you feel like you got a deal). The Service Consultant suggested doing the RMS at the same time since they'll have the tranny out. I did the reverse of that when the RMS' failed on my 966 but I haven't seen any leaks. I'm a little cautious on disturbing that seal from factory if it's not leaking as even though they supposedly fixed the RMS Seal and install tool from the notorious 996 problem, it did happen twice on my old car.
  6. Hello, I just dropped my 2006 C4S Cab off at the dealer as I noticed some clutch slip at highway speeds this weekend and an odd feeling in the clutch pedal itself upon release (seemed to stick a bit coming off the floor). No problems with actually shifting into a gerar or anything. I am not the original owner but bought this one owner car with about 15K on it and have put another 15K on myself. I can't say how the other guy treated it but I have not abused the clutch. This is my 3rd P-Car and it seems very strage to me that a clutch only lasts 30K miles. On my previous C4 cab (996) I had them replace it with the RMS at 30K and 60K but never experienced any issue with it so it's hard for me to say. The next shocker was that the dealer quoted $3100 to do this work which seemed crazy high for a clutch job. I like this dealer and have used them for years but I'm wondering if this quote is in line or whether its simply time for me to find a good independant Porsche mechanic. Anyway this was the last thing I needed before the holidays. Any opinions/ comments on the quote I received would be appreciated. Thanks.
  7. I thought I’d provide an update on this. I’m embarrassed to say that when I revisited this for the actual Sirius antenna installation I saw that the NAV antenna connector had a push to release button on the back side. I guess it was too dark in the garage for me to see that the first time. It explains why no one had detailed its removal in any of the other posts.
  8. Anyone familiar with how to remove the 997 NAV Antenna Wires? I want to install a Sirius Antenna under the front cowl and need to remove the NAV connections but cannot figure out how to disconnect them. They did not come off easily (push w half turn, unscrew CCW, pull, etc.) and I didn't want to break anything in my attempt. I've searched the forum and found others who had remove them to locate their Sirius antenna in a similar fashion but there weren’t any explanations of how to remove the leads (clearly others had an easier time). As I said, my concern was breaking the connector or damaging the car finish from the cowl moving about so if there is a trick, please share. Thanks in advance.
  9. I have a '02 C4 Cab and I would like to get the flared rockers. I like the Aerokit I skirts better than the II but both are nice. My thinking was that if I bought them from a Porsche dealer and and them paint them before shipping I could install them myself. Any thoughts? Anyone have the directions? Thanks!
  10. :thumbup: Board Members: FYI, It appears that the problem is resolved. I started thinking about the power loss. It was like the fuel was shut off, causing the sudden 2000 RPM drop in power at highway speeds. I thought that maybe an obstruction in the fuel filter could intermittently position itself in a way to obstruct flow, when the loss of power is experienced, it shifted again and power was restored (purely speculating). Anyway I looked my recent maintenance record to see if the fuel filter was replaced at 30K and saw that it wasn't. I ordered a replacement fuel filter but in the meantime added a fuel injector cleaner to see if that did anything (it had been 10K miles or so since done last). Believe it or not, I have not experienced the problem since adding the cleaner. I'm going to change the filter anyway. Whether the problem was located in the filter or somewhere else in the fuel system, I'm happy I didn't have the dealer go on a part swapping spree. BTW, where is the fuel filter located? Is this something I can easily get access to and replace? Thanks to all
  11. Thanks Craig. The cold air intake has been on for a while now. Unfortunately, I had all of the old parts in a box and threw them out when cleaning out the garage around xmas (no going back). I'd be surprised if it where the intake system. I think you've pointed me in the right direction (fuel pressure, fuel regulator, vacuum, fuel injector leaks). Is there an easy way for me to check any of these things or is it back to the dealer?
  12. Craig - Thanks, you guys are great!. The codes that were stored in the DME were P1125 & P1123. I guess the codes they printed on my invoice refer to something else. What the dealer told me they referred to was the O2 sensors. They said that a simultaneous failure of both was unlikely and that they would cause the car to run poorly but not the rapid loss of power I've experienced. Who knows? Anyway, I look forward to you thoughts.
  13. No I'm not hitting the rev limiter at all, It happens while crusing at 70 - 75 on the highway. About a week before the power problem I had the CE light come on and stay on. At first I didn't panic, I checked the gas cap, etc. but it didn't go out. Then the power loss thing happened and it freaked me out a bit. I didn't hesitaite to bring it to the dealer. The dealer found the following codes: 35 & 27 indicating O2 sensors. They checked the O2 sensors and said they were fine which led them to the MAF as a suggested fault (maybe because I have High Flow Intake with K&N filter). The MAF didn't fix the problem. I don't know if any codes are being recorded now since the CE light is only on for the second the that the power drops.
  14. I'm looking for some help. I have a '99 Boxster w/ 30K miles on it. I've recently started getting a sudden, temporary power loss at highway speeds (as if I turned the car off and then on again). Electrical seems fine, CE light comes on for duration of loss and then goes out again. I brought the car to the dealer but they were not able to reproduce problem. In an hour drive the problem typically will demonstrate itself anywhere from 0 to 6 times (usually at least a couple). The dealer stated that vacuum leaks, MAF among other things could cause this. Their suggestion, they could start replacing things until they fix it (at my expense). I'm looking for a better/ less costly solution. After some discussion, they felt it was the MAF and I did allow them to replace it but it didn't solve the problem. Any guidance would be appreciated!
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