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I certainly would but it seems I am drawing a blank. In fact I may order a couple of clips, supports, whatever they are called, one blindly (no image) and another will need modification to work. If either or both work out, I will post. In the meantime plan B involves P clips and gripper washers or the same plastic nuts as used to retain the underbody cover panels, to achieve the same result. Not ideal but better than reusing broken clips. Frustrating.
The clips don't have any separate screw to attach to the body, they are screwed on themselves (rotated in their entirety). Today I went to Porsche and it appears that their PET is no better than mine. Could not find the clips, also mentioned that there is a "missing" bearing for the gearbox on my PET and sure enough it was missing on theirs too...
Haha well these little mysteries are always fun! I did post elsewhere, but hey, everyone can play! Mystery pipe clips, can't find on PET, and need ordering as they have split... there is one clip in PET that does not included in the image, not numbered, and may be "A" but unsure. Believe me I have been working my eyes out studying PET but I don't have any definitive info on anything Any ideas? I win the prize! Well I don't, you make me spend the money... Here goes! A and B are critical. C not a problem. Have fun and win for me!
Off another forum I got very strong pointers towards a gearbox pinion bearing. As an aside - re the wheelbearings - even when shot, the sort of bearing fitted tends not to make any increase in rumbling sound under cornering loads. Replaced my fronts and the only 100% confirmation they were shot (other than the noise) was had when they were in my hands and opened up.
I am hearing a noise that I can best describe as wheel-bearingey like thrum, thrum, thrum, similar to the sound you get when one sector of the bearing is damaged, but the main difference being the frequency of the thrumming is much higher than wheel rotation (but is still related to vehicle speed). It sounds like the thrum, thrum is around 3 times wheel rotation speed. Best heard at low speeds, say 10mph, and in gear or out makes little difference (heard best coasting). At higher speeds due to the frequency increase it just turns into a whine. Any ideas?
Hi Loren, WRoss, I guessed the accu was bad because the clutch works fine, just that the assistance is lost when the engine is off, which is what I imagine the accu is for. So I did not replace the slave, it looks like a pig to get to so I would put it off if possible! Perhaps within the next year I will drop the engine and do all the must-dos and would replace it then. I did not bleed because several posters said they did not find it necessary and I lost only drops of fluid, and they seem to have had a positive result. I don't really see how the accu can be bled because there seems to be no throughflow anyway? Perhaps I am impatient, I only started it up, let it run, then turned it off, perhaps it will be OK after a bit of usage?
Replaced clutch accumulator, symptoms were typical, stiff clutch before engine started. Anyway, nothing has changed with the new one! Must add: First start-up. I.e. I started it up, tested the clutch, let the car run for around 10 mins (cos that's what I do..!) then off for around 3hrs. Returned to car, clutch stiff immediately (first pump). Accu replacement was straightforward, literally half a dozen drops of fluid were lost, and because I read so on several posts, I did not even bleed. Am suspecting that I may need to allow time / a bit of use for the accu to fill with fluid, but just guessing. Any ideas?
Got out of car to take some pics, and as I generally do, I let it idle. It was then that I noted a humming noise from the front, I did not investigate fully but it was audible on the drivers side, in the front wheel area. The sound is a hum like thing but I noticed it because it was intermittent, i.e. it had a frequency that was similar to a ringing tone... what you hear when you are on the phone calling someone waiting for them to pick up... hummmmmmmmmm, (pause...) hummmmmmmmm, (pause...) etc etc. Is this normal and something that I never happened to have noticed before? Since I then got quite sensitive to this sound I think I also heard it while actually in the car and driving and convinced myself that I could also feel it through the wheel. Any ideas? Only just got back from holiday drive so have not looked into it at all, grateful for any early pointers however.
To anyone else who may be wondering - Yes it is 99610652672
There is a support bracket attached to the RHS of the tranny/diff (rear), for narrow gauge coolant hoses, must be for heating hoses. It's very rusty and needs replacing, but on Porsche's parts list "Katalog" there is nothing that looks quite like it. It could be 99610653631, (but is not, unless the 6sp one is rather different) and it's the same story with 99610652672 They really are not what I want, at least not in the images provided, but I understand that the images shown are for the Tip version bracket/s, so I am lost. This bracket is attached just by the RHS CV joint. In the pics, the rusty part, with the "fork" slot to prevent rotation while doing up the retaining bolt. All images online point to the same Porsche drawings, so not much help there! Any ideas? Thanks in advance... EDIT - apologies I put this in the wrong forum, had too many open windows... if a mod can move this that would be great!
Thanks. I won't be spending any money for now, just cleaning out the MAF fwiw. In a couple of months I should be able to pull some codes but in the meantime was wondering whether the issues I had - those that are real issues - are commonly attributed to any particular part failure. I read about lack of smoothness in the throttle pedal and sorted that but I do now realise that the pedal itself is linked by cable to the potentiometer (?) so there is still further mechanical connection, wonder whether that could have any significance in the "delayed response" issue.
I'm not sure whether I even have a problem, but here's the deal. Have had the car (996TT 6sp) for around 5k miles. I have always found the car difficult to drive slowly. Difficulty matching engine revs so that I don't get a clonk from the transmission. Not impossible but it sure needs a lot of concentration and a very gentle easing out of the clutch. Does not always work. Anyway, very tiring in traffic. I thought this was normal. However recently it has been stalling on me. Not daily, or even all that often. Just did 3k miles in 10 days, and it did it 3 or 4 times. In between gears. It simply did not hold idle for the short time that my foot was off the throttle and the clutch was depressed. Sometimes - very occasionally - when coming off the throttle, clutch depressed, I get revs surging for an instant. Another thing, when depressing the gas pedal a small amount - I get a response, but say one second later I get a little bit more response. To explain this I could say that if I pressed the throttle 10% of it's travel, I get the appropriate (I think) response, then a second or so later I get some more throttle, as if I had pressed the throttle (say) 12% of it's travel. Like the Egas/DME has woken up and decided that what I really want is a little bit more throttle than I have given it. Or perhaps, it gave me less than ti should have originally, based on pedal position, and it's now giving me what I should have had. A quick note, I opened up the pedal assy and lubed it, feels smooth (wasnt smooth before) so that's not related. I have the MAF out and will clean it (discovered that contact cleaner is not what I should have bought!) so I will do that but wondered whether I should also be looking elsewhere for a resolution. At the moment don't have what it takes to pull any codes etc. Thanks in advance, all.