Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

James Guy

Members
  • Posts

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • From
    England
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    996 TT

James Guy's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. Considering what happened the first time, most people either go for the pinned (which is also glued) or welded approaches as they both assure the parts will not move as they are mechanically locked in place. Some also remain concerned that even with the pins, eventually the glue line will fail again and you will still have leaks. Going welded or threaded eliminates any possibility of that happening. As you are going to need to drop the engine in any case, may as well do it right and do it once.........Thanks JFP. Wasn't planning on an engine drop until next year when I have other work done.. Will fix short term then have them all welded with engine drop.
  2. Thanks JFP - totally understand that the ideal option will be to weld all the connectors. I plan to have this done as soon as I drop the engine. The car isn't actually tracked, nor do I have plans to do so. Having only purchased the car 2 months ago, I've been pretty unlucky! Has anyone secured with epoxy for a second time? Not perfect I know, but is this an option?
  3. After catasphroic coolant failure on Monday - requiring a flat bed to get me home, I had the airbox, inlet manifold and alternator off, to find this! Apparently this is very unusual for a UK car, particulary one that hasn't been driven too hard, or tracked. Weighing up my options - 1. Do I have an engine drop, and weld the part in - costly! 2. Use a strong suitable epoxy i.e. http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000J0961 Frustrating - but at least I've found it Also strange that there was a minor leakage before hand!
  4. Thanks to all for your help with this. I spent some time this weekend trying to find where the leak was coming from. Having topped up the expansion tank, and pressurised the system, I couldn't get the car to leak again. Drove it hard, and tried all I could but no luck. Put the car away, and nothing for 3 days, and then I checked today and its leaked again from the same place. Short of an engine drop, I don't think there is much I can do. However, it seems intermitent, so I will take Dus10R approach for now and accept it until I need the engine dropped for another reason. Just seems very strange, and I am wondering if the most likely option is either a bad gasket, or a slight rub on the hose which settles under pressure.
  5. Guys - I've got a coolant leak that I was looking for some advice on. I picked up my 996TT two weeks ago from a private seller, and having hunted around many cars, I was very happy with my purchase. This weekend I did some simple routine maintenance on the car. I had noticed that the Coolant in the expansion tank was about 2cm below the min line, so topped up with Porsche Coolant. Took the car our for a drive, and then put in the garage. It has been sat out there for the last 3 nights and thought I would take it for a drive - on pulling it out of the garage I noticed an egg cups worth of coolant on the floor. Under the car I can see that there is a slow leak coming down the passenger side of the engine just back from level of the rear sway bar. What is interesting is that the coolant has leaked back down to it's previous level, and has seemed to have stoped leaking. Looking at the service papers, the expansion tank was replaced just 10 months ago, and I am not seeing signs that it is this again, I am aware that this could be one of the pipes that runs the coolant from one side of the engine to the other, but wondered if anyone could help out with any advice. I'll get the car up on stands this weekend and have a proper look. Thanks guys
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.