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maor

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About maor

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    Member

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  • From
    uk
  • Porsche Club
    PCGB (Porsche Club Great Britain)
  • Present cars
    ls430

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  1. It was torqued to 37ft as per the manual. 3.6 2004 Carrera. Purchased in summer 2013. Ln Engineering Flat 6 innovations raby engineering wright tune - purchased here Is the aim to confuse the customer as much as possible and shift the blame around when something goes wrong ? I don't blame you LN as it looks like you got in on the game alot later. I've well lost my interest in this now. Easily the quickest way to chuck away $450 Was honestly expecting a just replace the part, we're easily in that sort of price bracket where if it's something as minor as a sump plug with a lead, the seller just sends a new one.
  2. Has this happened to anyone? Happened before I went away on holiday and just got around to posting about this now. I had an IMS Guardian installed. There was a leak coming from the sump plug, on undoing the plug it cracked :confused: It's been a couple of weeks now and I can't even find the plug to take pictures but it was all very weird. Bought the kit from an official distributor in the UK like 6 months ago. I remember installing it and definitely torquing correctly. Searching hasn't revealed anything though. Are there spare plugs available?
  3. Fixed this. There was an aftermarket fusetap on the alarm fuse. Moved it away and cleared the airbag light. It's all good now :)
  4. Nothing wrong with checking if there's anything obvious wrong behind the door trim I guess. Can't hurt tbh.
  5. I will take the door apart. What actually could fail on the airbag? Could put in a used part... Will check out the wiring etc.
  6. I have these error codes. I am very confident they are related now as I was having intermittent lock issues. I can't lock my door sometimes when I close the drivers door, when I open it suddenly my car can be locked and unlocked. Tried the keyfob tricks etc, none worked. Then recently my airbag light has come on. I cleared it but it came back on straightaway.
  7. Haven't read them yet, waiting for cable to arrive but just prepping for if it is this. Why can't I just put a resistor across the electrical connection for seatbelt buckle to make it thing the seat is always buckled. And then just clear the light?
  8. Still haven't looked into this further due to time of year but I found something interesting yesterday. Got out the car and couldn't lock it, red light on dash was doing nothing, key was flashing red. I immediately opened the door and the car red light and key red light began talking. Shut the door and again, unresponsive. Opened the door and responsive. What on earth could cause that?
  9. Which part of the actual seatbelt receptacle fails causing this airbag light to come on? Im a little confused with this bit. People say you can just clean it up but what part is failing ?
  10. Sorry I tried switching to a new case, same design but the actual case is new Still the same issue.
  11. Tried reverse battery and a new battery. Only have 1 key Pretty confusing situation tbh.
  12. Having issues with key fob. I'll go for a drive, unlock the car with the fob. Go for a drive and get to my destination, get out shut the door and I wont be able to lock the car. If I go into the car and shut the door then It will let me lock it all of a sudden. Or if I leave the car unlocked and walk off and come back 10 mins ill be able to lock it straightaway. I send the key to be looked at, microswitches were fine and some bits got soldered but it's made no difference. Battery was changed too. When I can't lock the car, the red light is flashing on the remote but on the car the red light isn't flashing. Obviously when it is working both red lights are flashing as they should. So I think I can rule out the remote being the issue. What else could cause this? I can't see anything else that is consistent.
  13. AC If its cracked then just aluminium weld them back together....... If it is just bent then its not an issue...
  14. You are reading too much into this. Yes, the 2002 and later cars require a special hose (9057/1), but when you see one of these up close, you realize it is nothing more than an AC charging hose that depresses the Schrader valve in the fill port, allowing the fluid to flow in. We simply took an old AC hose and put a Motive Power sourced quick disconnect on it so that we could use it instead of the curved fill tube for the earlier cars; A brand new set of three AC hoses cost about $15-20, the Motive fill tool is available from multiple sources, as it the quick disconnect. So, for a few bucks, you have a tool that will fill either early or late Tips. As for temperature control, you really do not need a PIWIS to do this; the trans needs to be below 105F when it is filled, so if it is cool, you just fill it until it comes out the overfill port while the engine is idling. when it does, move the gear selector through the gears, and check level again. Then it is Miller time................. JFP can I double check thiswith you. Your post intrigued me and so I took the cap off the transmission and took my AC hose from my gauges. It doesn't screw on as it is slightly too small. Also do you happen to know what colour the transmission fluid was shipped with a brand new 722.6?
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