valfam

Hi my friend and I are new to the whole Porsche world and our 911. He is not sure if his is running right. I installed a rebuilt engine in it 6 months or so ago and my 996 was used and I have owned it for a few months I cant real tell if they are running right. If you live near Weston or Miami if we can meet somewhere and take the cars for a drive.

Thanks

Hello my friends 99 996 started getting this error a few week ago I remember hearing a clicking sound from the valve when the engine was running. P0445 {Solenoid valve 2 for carbon canister Short to ground} I replaced the tank vent valve thats the valve thats located in the back by the intake. Keep in mind my friend did not buy the OEM one he bought one that looks the same but without the little quick connect hose on it. he is still getting the error code. Any ideas where I should look? is there away I can test the whole system. I'm thinking of taking every hose and valve apart and testing each one. Oh by the way it does have a new gas cap. he did tell me tonight that if when he is getting gas he cant run the pump at full speed it shut off on him he told me that if he runs the pump at 75% its fine. thanks in advance for any and all help.

is that not the best when you fix the problem the first time?

The first time I had to remove my friends alternator I used a pry bar to get it out I did not know about wacking the bolt in a little. I did have to hit it pretty hard for it to go back in at all, I was scared that I was going to mess something up. but id did make it come out easier than the first time but it was not easy it's was still a little of a pain. What I did was I undid the screw a few turns out then hit the head of it with the hammer I would say give it a few hits and try if it does not move hit it a few more times and try again.

I have noticed a car moving at highway speeds make the AC works much better due to a few differences. You get more airflow over the condensers an the flow of air over the car also cools the car off so the AC has less hot air to cool.

Is there a way to tell that the motor mount is bad?

Did you ever get the motor on the Dyno? I always said it's easy to make a slow car faster but to make a fast car faster is not easy. I think HP ratings like they advertise you can not just add one and another for your total HP. I don't know just my thought.

Did you get it working?

You could buy one of these on EBay and mount it in one of your cubbys with double sided tape bring the wires out the back and hook them to the phone connector.. That way no battery changing and multiple devices can be controlled. Mine works great. Brown = Ground, yellow/black = Telephone mute, green/black = switched 12v, red/green = un-switched 12v Here is one for $15 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CADILLAC-SEVILLE-DEVILLE-ELDORADO-ROLLING-CODE-HOMELINK-AMBER-YELLOW-LIGHT-/150962923236#vi-content

That's pretty cool I may do that.

I used a flex socket and lots patients. also once you have it lose you have to pull it up some to slid it out. when you go to install it I tie a little line to the bolt head to keep it up close to the line she I have the two bolts up front on I remove the line and let the bold drop in place then pray that I can get the bold back it. It's a pain but it can be done. I used a little mirror and a light to see it, its really hard to see but it can be done.

I will try to get you my reading this week.

that's the one I will be installing in the next few weeks. I have the full kit the one with the shim for the front of the IMS shaft. Which one are you going to buy? They say this is a life time repair. I spoke to them at the shop and he explained his theory behind the design and why he things its a life long fix.

You know I was thinking how can you get the coil out with the mufflers on, but I have not seen one tutorial saying you need to remove the exhaust to get the coils out.

did you check the blower motor? I have seen the bushing make noise not all of them have real bearings and if the drag gets bad it will start to blow fuses.

My friend with the 99 996 told me a few days ago he saw the same puff of smoke after he had the car parked for a week or so. I guess it a normal feature as JFP put it.

I have the same light after I get on the highway and the wing comes up. After a few starts the light turns off until I get on the highway and hit over 74 again.

Well I like this way...

(click to enlarge)

rear view.jpg

But you could always remove the light bulb...

Wow that looks awesome.

as Creekman said cooling is relative thing. It depends how hot the air was before you tried to cool it and the air flow over the condensers. Does you have the windows tinted? Does it get colder when the sun is going down? I would try a thermometer and see whats the internal temperature is and see whats the temperature is coming out the vents.

I did mine today and it looks great. After the 15 min the mirror sticker wiped right off and I used a little more alcohol to wipe it clean, on the other side as they said it came off like an old balloon but it did come off easy I do have a little ghost image of the old sticker but I think with some Armor all it should blend in nicely.

It looks great with some Armor All on it the ghost image of the sticker is gone. One more thing instead of removing the mirror I put a Publix bag between the mirror and the cover.

_{I think bBunny explained it.}

_{I remember back in 1984, I was waiting for the bus in front of a Porsche dealership on the weeekend and}

_{a car transport pulled in and off-loaded a half dozen new 84 Carrera's.}

_{Everyone of them smoked on start-up.}

_{They all had window stickers that were for 31,000.}

_{A few days later, I was at the same place and noticed they all were out for display with $34,000 stickers.}

_Weird.

_{Inflation I guess.}

An occasional puff is a normal "feature" of the flat six engine design. However, if it happens all the time, it could be the start of the AOS going out.

Thanks. I was thinking (hoping) that was it. I once read on here that if I see smoke driving on the highway to check the AOS. That's funny "feature", Microsoft used to call some of the issues we found a "undocumented feature" that's funny.

thank you very much for the feed back.

Oh really, well thats good to know that really scared me. if I drive it every day it should not happen everytime I start it right? I really enjoy the car. I need to spend a few $1000 to get it 100% it's such a blast to drive.

I noticed last night when I first start the car I think after it's been sitting for a few days I get a puff of smoke. I have not noticed it while I drive just at start up. as you can guess it has me a little worried. What do you think it could be?

Thanks

Thanks for the quick reply. Reason I ask this is because when doing the IMS retrofit I remember reading about the ims tube resting on the oil pump console... and I guess I would be concerned about removing the oil pump cover/console - thereby relieving tension on the ims tube (thereby messing up timing/snapping shafts/etc.)...I found this thread over on rennlist I think I will post there and ask the person how they did this.That and I found this on the LN website:From http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.htmlDo you offer an upgraded oil pump drive that goes into the IMS?Yes, we now offer a heat treated chromoly oil pump hex drive to replace the cheap factory pump drive, which has known to fail, shearing in two, resulting in a catastrophic loss of oil pressure. The oil pump drive is located off the intermediate shaft on the opposite side that hold the ball bearing and mates to the oil pump console, located on the front of the engine. This part should not be changed with the engine in the car, as the oil pump console must be removed to R&R the oil pump drive.

Thats what I read but I dont think its true I think you can remove the shaft with the engine in the car you just to remove the whole back of the motor to get to it. I will be doing this soon.

I can’t say much but like you I just got into Porsches. I was looking for something fun and different to work on so I bought a 2000 996 hardtop for a little under $20000 with 61000 miles on it. So far this is what I have seen it’s a car that needs to be taken of and has problems. But most can be fixed and the big problems avoided. I’m not going to say they are as reliable as a Toyota or Honda so far I have not seen anything that will lead me to believe this. I have owned my car now for a month and so and so far this is what has broken since I bought mine. Driver’s side window regulator, and water pump, and the driver’s side window regulator is making noise so it will go soon. I’m not sure if they are the original parts or they have been replaced before but if I can get 60000 miles without another window regulator, or water pump going bad I guess I can live with that. I bought a new IMS bearing kit that I was told will fix the problem for good and I have a new RMS to go in soon. I will tell you parts are not cheap and I have read to always buy OEM parts I’m ok with that’s as long as they last. Good luck and enjoy your new distraction.