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Book time to replace both (2) exhaust turbos is 5.5 hours.

3 hours 10 minutes for just one.

Loren -- Thank you very much for the information!

Does anyone know how many hours the Porsche "book time" states for removal and replacement of the twin turbos? Thanks.

deckman -- I would replace just the ignition switch as a DIY for now (you can buy the part from either a VW or Audi dealer, or online for much cheaper at a few days wait). It isn't nearly as complicated as replacing the entire assembly. Then if/when it fails again, you can order the ignition switch assembly online for cheaper and plan for the time to replace the entire assembly. Hopefully, the new switch alone will cure your problem and last for a few years.

I think they said I need a new ignition lock assembly. Parts and labor is over $800 and not covered by CPO. Is this a possible DIY?

My dealer quoted me about $600, parts and labor, to replace the entire ignition assembly. There is a nice write-up for a DIY on this site.

I think the two options are 1) replace the entire ignition assembly (either the cheaper DIY or the expensive dealer charge) and be done with it, shouldn't happen again, or 2) replace just the ignition switch yourself (good DIY on this site, and even I can do it) for much cheaper, knowing that it might fail again in the future.

Update -- I replaced the ignition switch (again), and after about 10 problem free turns of the key, it intermittently gets stuck once again. I am assuming that it is not another bad swtich (2 in a row bad new switches seems unlikely), but rather that the whole lock assembly is faulty in some way. I guess it's time to read up on that DIY.

Thanks for the replies. I just bought two new ignition switches online. I bought the first one I replaced from the Audi dealer, because I figured that OEM might be better quality than non-OEM, but considering that the new Audi switch I put in had problems with the key getting stuck right away, this time I'm going with the less expensive online option. I bought two just in case I need another one sooner than later (for the same shipping cost). The factory switch that came with the car lasted 7 years, and the new Audi one I put in had the key getting stuck after the first two turns. If it turns out to be a problem with the entire lock assembly, it might mean a trip to the dealer for me in the future (but I hope not).

The whole lock assembly is US MSRP $135.81. 996.347.017.07

Thanks Loren. I was thinking it would be close to $500 including labor, since replacing the whole lock assembly is probably beyond my meger mechanical abilities.

A couple of months ago I followed the DIY (thank you -- very helpful!) and replaced my ignition switch ('01 996tt) to address an intermittent issue I was having with the key not releasing (no electrical issues, just the key not turning all the way to release from time to time). I replaced it with a new switch from my local Audi dealer. The same day after putting in the new switch, the key would not release once again with the new switch in place. In the past couple of months, it has happened a few more times. It can take up to 10 minutes of turning the key back and forth until it turns all the way back and releases.

I figure one of two things could be wrong: #1) The new ignition switch is broken (was broken when I got it), or #2) There's something wrong with the entire switch lock assembly.

I know that the easy way to figure this out would be to buy another new ignition switch and replace it. If the problem still occurs, it's probably not the switch, but the entire assembly. But before I do that, I thought I would ask here to see if there are known issues with the lock assembly itself apart from the switch that might cause this key not releasing issue. About $50 (swtich) vs $500 (entire assembly) to fix?

Thanks for any input.

Steve -- on other forums there is a lot of talk about the rears lasting only half as long as the fronts, with people commonly needin two sets of rears for every one set of fronts. Based on those discussions, seems like a typical situation. The main concern seems to be about different type tires front to rear, with the consensus opinion to stay with the same brand-type of tire all around to maintain consistent handling.

"The new hose was introduced into production on July 24th, 2000".

As I recall there are even newer hoses than ones in that TSB (10-06-00) - at least the parts list shows newer part numbers.

Ask your dealer when you order.

Thank you Loren!

Yes, there were upgraded by Porsche in TSB 2/00 2139 Power Loss and Lack of Acceleration -- dated 10-06-2000.

Loren -- Is the date of the start of the upgrade the same as the date of the TSB (10-06-00)? I have a 6/01 build MY'01 and am curious to know if I have the old or newer boost hoses. Thanks.

Edit: just looked at my passenger's side hose (US model) in the engine compartment and it has this # -- 996.110.644.73

to give more info

usually it happen after i take the car out for a nice little run .., drive it in Manaul mode for a while.. then it will start to flash at 4th gear.... i will pop it back into D... then both D and 4 will flash?? weired.....

no one with TIP ever had this issue??

From what I've learned from the manual, the flashing "4" light is an indication of a Tiptonic error. Your service center should be able to check for codes.

Thanks RFM for the advice. I'll give it a try.

Yesterday I had my 996 Tip parked out in the sun for several hours. When I went to drive it, the Tip shifter button (the one on the console shifter that you depress to move the gear shifter) popped off after I pushed it in. I couldn't find any other parts lying around the cabin, so I pushed it back on, only to have it pop off again, either right away, or after a few minutes.

I see a spring attached to the shifter, which seems to go into a small "hole" on the inside of the button itself, which I try to align when putting the button back on. I snap the small horizontal bar into the appropriate notch on the button. All looks and moves well, until it pops off.

Is there a part I'm missing that I've lost on the initial "pop off"? Is there some special trick I need to know?

I appreciate any help that I can get. Thanks.

Tagger -- I think both are good cars. After you drive them, you will probably have a good idea which one works best for you. The power delivery of the 996tt vs the 997 C2S is very different. The 997 will have some factory warranty remaining, and for some, that makes a difference. The AWD of the 996tt makes it easier to put the power to the ground, but also makes the handling a bit different feeling than the traditional RWD. I think you will be happy either way.

Porsche added silver solder to the back of the detents. This now makes them solid so that they will not deform or distort and pop out of the retaining clips.. The updated hoses are "very good"

Thanks again Kevin!

Do you mean the intercooler hoses?

I mean all five boost hoses -- including the F-hose for the DVs. I see silicone versions for sale for about $1k, and many tuners recommend the silicone ones for modded cars with higher boost, but some say that the OEM '02 and later ones are fine. I'm planning on some mods, and I don't wan't to get stranded by blowing a hose.

Does anyone know if there's a chance that my 6/01 build MY '01 996tt could have the newer style hoses that I hear were upgraded for the MY '02? Is there a way for me to check just by looking? Thanks for any input.

Which disk can i use with teh PCM 16 bit? do you guys know?

The disc I'm using is dated 2003.1

I tried a disc dated 1999.1 (or something similar) which did not work.

I think it is "Oval Chrome Exhaust Pipes"

Here's a link to some pictures of someone selling X54 tips (I have no affiliation with the seller, and the item appears to already be sold).

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62057

Grundy -- I have the 16-bit PCM1 nav, and the image looks like a 5 year old made a few crayon drawings. It's functional, but sounds like it looks similar to the 8-bit image. I'm still very glad to have it!

I know that once you've found the car that fits all of the criteria -- right color, options/equipment -- plus, you've spent the money on a PPI, it's compelling to make it work for you. I think if you can live with a prior tracking history and some type 2 overevs, get the brake work and variocam stuff done by the dealer before the sale (at their cost), and are OK with no current RMS leak and the transmission is currently OK; then agree on a good price for you and you could be happy with it. Buying long distance based on a PPI is a tough call (although I did it too).

There are many 996 coupes out there to choose from, but maybe not with that low of miles and the options you are looking for. If you can find one you like without those issues or stories, it might be a better car in the long term. Good luck with your car search & purchase.

Following with the car of my friend, there is a problem in the PCM I

We live in Spain and the car was purchased as a second hand car . The owner is spanish, the car was not imported from Germany, but the language of the PCM I suffered a change, and suddenly it began to speak german instead of spanish as it used.

In the Porsche Center they told us that they have to replace the CD Rom unit. In Spain, the custom service of Porsche Centers is always bad. They only want to earn money, and don't think in solving the problems of the customers

do you know any way to change the language ?

Thanks

I have PCM1 in my car (in the USA), and by pushing the "BC" button on the lower right side of the Nav unit, I can go to "settings" and select the top item of "language" to change languages. Maybe these terms are all in German in your friend's car, if your friend's PCM is speaking German.

Very nice setup :D

Where did you get the leather stitched "turbo" scripted rear center console armrest? I would like to get one for myself.

I need to remove the passenger side door storage lid. Does anyone know how to do it? Thanks

I tried to slide the forward horizontal pin out but couldn't get a good grasp on it with the pliers. Eventually, I just took out all 10 or 15 tiny screws on the underside of the lid when I put in my arctic silver covers.

Good luck :cheers:

Sameer

Sameer -- I'm trying to avoid dealing with all those Torx screws. I'll go out now and try tugging on that horizontal pin with some pliers. I hope I don't break somthing ... :eek:

I need to remove the passenger side door storage lid. Does anyone know how to do it? Thanks

I tried to slide the forward horizontal pin out but couldn't get a good grasp on it with the pliers. Eventually, I just took out all 10 or 15 tiny screws on the underside of the lid when I put in my arctic silver covers.

Good luck :cheers:

Sameer

Sameer -- I'm trying to avoid dealing with all those Torx screws. I'll go out now and try tugging on that horizontal pin with some pliers. I hope I don't break somthing ... :eek:

Sameer -- Thanks for the suggestion! I just went out and pulled very hard on the head of that horizontal pin with needle nose pliers ... and it came out (quite a long pin). I've got the id on my desk now, and am getting ready to go to work on it. Thanks. :D