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deckman -- I would replace just the ignition switch as a DIY for now (you can buy the part from either a VW or Audi dealer, or online for much cheaper at a few days wait). It isn't nearly as complicated as replacing the entire assembly. Then if/when it fails again, you can order the ignition switch assembly online for cheaper and plan for the time to replace the entire assembly. Hopefully, the new switch alone will cure your problem and last for a few years.
My dealer quoted me about $600, parts and labor, to replace the entire ignition assembly. There is a nice write-up for a DIY on this site. I think the two options are 1) replace the entire ignition assembly (either the cheaper DIY or the expensive dealer charge) and be done with it, shouldn't happen again, or 2) replace just the ignition switch yourself (good DIY on this site, and even I can do it) for much cheaper, knowing that it might fail again in the future.
Update -- I replaced the ignition switch (again), and after about 10 problem free turns of the key, it intermittently gets stuck once again. I am assuming that it is not another bad swtich (2 in a row bad new switches seems unlikely), but rather that the whole lock assembly is faulty in some way. I guess it's time to read up on that DIY.
Thanks for the replies. I just bought two new ignition switches online. I bought the first one I replaced from the Audi dealer, because I figured that OEM might be better quality than non-OEM, but considering that the new Audi switch I put in had problems with the key getting stuck right away, this time I'm going with the less expensive online option. I bought two just in case I need another one sooner than later (for the same shipping cost). The factory switch that came with the car lasted 7 years, and the new Audi one I put in had the key getting stuck after the first two turns. If it turns out to be a problem with the entire lock assembly, it might mean a trip to the dealer for me in the future (but I hope not).
Thanks Loren. I was thinking it would be close to $500 including labor, since replacing the whole lock assembly is probably beyond my meger mechanical abilities.
A couple of months ago I followed the DIY (thank you -- very helpful!) and replaced my ignition switch ('01 996tt) to address an intermittent issue I was having with the key not releasing (no electrical issues, just the key not turning all the way to release from time to time). I replaced it with a new switch from my local Audi dealer. The same day after putting in the new switch, the key would not release once again with the new switch in place. In the past couple of months, it has happened a few more times. It can take up to 10 minutes of turning the key back and forth until it turns all the way back and releases. I figure one of two things could be wrong: #1) The new ignition switch is broken (was broken when I got it), or #2) There's something wrong with the entire switch lock assembly. I know that the easy way to figure this out would be to buy another new ignition switch and replace it. If the problem still occurs, it's probably not the switch, but the entire assembly. But before I do that, I thought I would ask here to see if there are known issues with the lock assembly itself apart from the switch that might cause this key not releasing issue. About $50 (swtich) vs $500 (entire assembly) to fix? Thanks for any input.
Steve -- on other forums there is a lot of talk about the rears lasting only half as long as the fronts, with people commonly needin two sets of rears for every one set of fronts. Based on those discussions, seems like a typical situation. The main concern seems to be about different type tires front to rear, with the consensus opinion to stay with the same brand-type of tire all around to maintain consistent handling.
Loren -- Is the date of the start of the upgrade the same as the date of the TSB (10-06-00)? I have a 6/01 build MY'01 and am curious to know if I have the old or newer boost hoses. Thanks. Edit: just looked at my passenger's side hose (US model) in the engine compartment and it has this # -- 996.110.644.73
alpha replied to showboat's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)From what I've learned from the manual, the flashing "4" light is an indication of a Tiptonic error. Your service center should be able to check for codes.
alpha replied to alpha's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thanks RFM for the advice. I'll give it a try.
Yesterday I had my 996 Tip parked out in the sun for several hours. When I went to drive it, the Tip shifter button (the one on the console shifter that you depress to move the gear shifter) popped off after I pushed it in. I couldn't find any other parts lying around the cabin, so I pushed it back on, only to have it pop off again, either right away, or after a few minutes. I see a spring attached to the shifter, which seems to go into a small "hole" on the inside of the button itself, which I try to align when putting the button back on. I snap the small horizontal bar into the appropriate notch on the button. All looks and moves well, until it pops off. Is there a part I'm missing that I've lost on the initial "pop off"? Is there some special trick I need to know? I appreciate any help that I can get. Thanks.
Tagger -- I think both are good cars. After you drive them, you will probably have a good idea which one works best for you. The power delivery of the 996tt vs the 997 C2S is very different. The 997 will have some factory warranty remaining, and for some, that makes a difference. The AWD of the 996tt makes it easier to put the power to the ground, but also makes the handling a bit different feeling than the traditional RWD. I think you will be happy either way.