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zegypt

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About zegypt

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  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Hollywood Hills
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1997 Carrera 4S
  • Former cars
    2002 Carrera 2
    Audi TT

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  1. zegypt
    I bought a 1997 C4S five months ago with 90k miles, the power was relatively lackluster, and I had to add at least a quart of oil a month. I also live in the hills and the car would knock a bit going up the hill in 3rd gear and sometimes in 2nd gear. After putting the Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer into the car, the power has noticeably increased and the car doesn't knock going up the hill in even 4th gear. A huge difference. I still haven't noticed how much oil is burned monthly, but it should be less. Certainly the pressure in the engine has increased. I highly recommend it.
  2. zegypt
    I was told that it's all done by hand at the factory, meaning that there are not set specifications for how the badges are applied. I need to do the same thing for my newly bought 993 C4S, and I'm just collecting pictures online so that I can mimic it once I get my hood repainted.
  3. zegypt
    Ok.....now reached 106,000 miles. According to two high-end Porsche tuning shops in Los Angeles, my 2002 C2's engine is extremely strong. I do get annoying CEL from time to time (probably due to bad gas), but I use an OBDII to clear them out with no issues. I still can't get the pin back into the driver's side door glove box, but beyond that and the infrequent CEL, the car has been amazingly reliable and fun to drive.
  4. zegypt
    That did the trick. Thanks, Loren. Your help is greatly appreciated!
  5. zegypt
    Loren - I think you're right. My right brake light is out (but the left brake light is working). Can you tell me where the brake light switch is located and explain how to replace it? I assume it is the switch under the brake pedal. Lastly, can it be that one of my brake lights is simply out or does it have to be the brake light switch?
  6. zegypt
    Loren.....is this true for a 2002 C2 as well?
  7. zegypt
    Just to give an update, I ended up going to a local specialty car shop in West LA called Lucent Motors. The diagnostic test he ran indicated that I was having issues with my oxygen sensors, which he believed to be dirty, so he had me put a $12 can of Redline fuel system cleaner in my tank and said that should do the trick. It appears to have worked. It's been three days and I haven't had another CEL, my car seems to be running smoother with a significant increase in power. However, I did have an ABS/PSM failure again this morning, which already reset itself after stopping and starting my car again. Hopefully that will be alleviated as well.
  8. zegypt
    Trak Auto doesn't allow people to use their OBDII to check CEL's anymore, but it has been P1121 consistently in the past. P1121 Throttle position sensor 1 - signal implausible Throttle position sensor 1 - below limit Throttle position sensor 1 - above limit Possible fault cause: - Open circuit in wiring - Short circuit in wiring - Throttle position sensor faulty - DME control module faulty Hi Loren....sorry, I didn't see your post. I don't know where the wiring, throttle position sensor, or DME control module are located. Do I have to go to the dealer for this, or is this something I can do myself with some instruction? Please let me know. Thanks!
  9. zegypt
    Trak Auto doesn't allow people to use their OBDII to check CEL's anymore, but it has been P1121 consistently in the past. Well, if that is the only code you ever get, you don't have a fuel/air problem but a heating problem with the after-cat O2 sensor on bank 2. Check the wires on the sensor and repair or replace the sensor. Are there instructions on how to do that? Can you direct me to the right place? Thanks.
  10. zegypt
    Trak Auto doesn't allow people to use their OBDII to check CEL's anymore, but it has been P1121 consistently in the past.
  11. zegypt
    [if you insist on keeping the K&N filter, there are ways to eliminate the problem. You can install a small resistor inline on the MAF wiring harness to reduce the MAF signal which will reduce the amount of fuel injected into the engine yet maintain your current air flow. Because your stock engine is designed to run slightly rich, there is no safely issues with this and you will actually get slightly better performance from the engine. If,you want to maintain a reduced MAF signal only during closed loop operation but have the maximum signal at WOT, you can easily install a vacuum operated switch ($10.00) that will reduce the MAF signal during times there is an angine vacuum (cruising and idle) and remove the restriction of the signal when there is no vacuum. (WOT). However, maintaining a slightly lower MAF signal at all engine speeds will give you the best performance while maintaining safety in your A/F ratio. Can you describe how to install a small resistor inline on the MAF wiring harness? If it isn't too much to ask, would you have a picture of it as well? I do want to keep the increased air flow filter (it's actually made by BMC) for a couple of reasons: 1) I do feel a definite increase in power (I reinstalled the original air filter and didn't like the way the car felt), and 2) I like the sound of the engine, which is a little louder.
  12. zegypt
    I've long had MAF Sensor issues (CEL comes on, and now ABS (failure) and PSM (turns off) lights are coming on), especially after changing out my air filter to a K & N type filter. I have cleaned the sensor with electronics cleaner repeatedly, but over time it seems to be failing more quickly even though I suspect that the oil residue from the filter is likely not the issue anymore. The last time I cleaned it was on three days ago. There seems to have more power now, but the CEL already came back after a short period of time (although the ABS/PSM issues seem to have been alievated). Do the sensors actually fail over time and need to be replaced, or would cleaning them always suffice? I'm reaching the point where I think I need to replace it, but I want to make sure on here first. My car: 2002 996 with 100,000 miles.
  13. zegypt
    You've probably solved the problem by now, but it's the placement of the wire so that it loops to the outside of the car. If it loops inside, the auto leveling won't work.
  14. zegypt
    Well, this is a coincidence. I just bought a pair of replacement bulbs for my xenon headlights on my '02 996 (DS2). As always, I researched whether it would make sense getting a different bulb. Apparently, the temperature only refers to the color of the light that is emitted from the bulb. In fact, one of my bulbs was starting to fail and turned pink. Anyhow, 4,300 is apparently the closest temperature/light color to natural sunlight, which is what Porsche, BMW, Lexus, etc., recommends for their cars. Here's another tip: the retail price from a Porsche dealer for one bulb is over $240. Sunset Porsche sells one bulb for around $120. I conducted a search on eBay and found a seller that sells new pairs of bulbs (that's 2 bulbs) for $75 shipped. Here's the link: http://stores.ebay.com/white-lite Good luck.
  15. zegypt
    I had lower ROW springs (from Sunset Imports) Bilstein Sport shocks installed, and my 996 rides like new, practically doesn't roll at all, and the ride is less harsh/more comfortable than the stock shocks it replaced (of course, they were also worn out at around 70,000 miles). Doing my research, I believe I read that you have to replace both the springs and shocks when lowering the car, but I can be wrong. If you have a lot of miles on your car, I'd replace the shocks because they do wear out over time and can make the ride of the car feel like new after replacing them.
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