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cmjgolf

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  • Present cars
    2003 911 C4 cab
  • Former cars
    1998 BMW 540i sport
    2003 Audi S8

cmjgolf's Achievements

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  1. Car is brand new, right? I wonder if they did not torque one of the control arms correctly at the factory. Build date was January 2009 - I picked it up 7/12/09 with 34 miles on it. Nothing but rather sedate break in for the first 2000 miles and no "oops" since - other than bumpy MN roads. You're probably right again! Thanks
  2. Quick question before I call the Dealer Monday: The steering angle sensor sends data to PSM/ABS system to help it determine when to intervene. The car can be out of alighment enough that the steering angle sensor and the other PSM/ABS sensors are sending conflicting info - so the computer shuts down PSM, hence the PSM light, and it thinks you have a steering angle sensor problem, when, in fact, you are out of tolerance in alignment. An alignment with a steering angle sensor calibration should fix you right up. Just back from my Dealer. You were correct! My alignment had "drifted" and they performed a 4 wheel alignment. In addition, the steering angle sensor was faulty. They replaced and calibrated a new sensor. All appears well as the wheel now points in the same direction as I am going (at least on the Interstate). With fresh snow here in MN, new winter tires, and PSM off ....well....... Thanks
  3. Quick question before I call the Dealer Monday: I have a 997.2 C4S coupe/6-speed with 3500 miles to date. Recently noticed my steering has gradually rotated clockwise - so that now while proceeding straight ahead, the wheel is pointing to "0ne o'clock." At the same time, after ~ 30 miles on the interstate, the PSM failure light comes on (happened x 2 yesterday). After stopping the car and restarting the light is off again. I have not bumped a curb or hit any big potholes. Could they be related? Anyone else see this? Anything in particular I should ask the Dealer to check?? Thanks - I have learned a great deal from you guys! :renntech:
  4. I live in central Minnesota. I drove a 996 C4 year round. I now have a 997.2 C4S that I also intend to drive through the winter. You MUST have a different set of wheels/winter tires ! You will then have a blast! I think I have more fun driving the 911 in the winter than anytime else. With PSM off, you will learn a lot about car control and have a blast. I had no trouble with reliability with the exception of the 996 battery - regardless of season, they seemed to last 12 -18 months max. I ended up with a spare jumper battery in the front trunk all winter! Hopefully that will not be a problem with the 997.2 Check out the Pirelli Sottozero video of a 911 Cab (top down!) driving on the Matterhorn.
  5. Update: was out of town for 4 days. Took the car to the dealer today. Noticed a rough idle and varying rpms while idling. Dealer said the code had cleared itself, but the code showed a defective valve solenoid. They have to overnight a replacement from Atlanta. They hope to have it back to me in 1 - 2 days. Anyone heard of this with the new DFI 3.8s? TIA Update #2 Dealer called and said the new solenoid did not clear the fault. He told me that "bank #2" is not communicating correctly with the solenoid and therefore not opening the intake valves correctly (?) I assume this has something to do with the variocam and which cam profile to follow, but I work on people not cars. They are contacting Porsche for further instructions. I bought the 2009 to avoid issues with the RMS and IMS on the previous design. Anyone aware of this issue? How concerned should I be ??? Update #3: Got my car back last night and all appears to be well. Interesting and confusing problem, however. The original fault code was P1381 "valve adjustment one bank in wrong lift." The technician "pulled up the actual values for the short test results and found that bank one read OK and bank two read faulty." To make a long story short - as it was explained to me - the diagnostic software from Porsche for the new DFI engine had a problem. It took a few days of communicating with Porsche in Germany to discover that the diagnostic software indicated "OK" when there was a fault and indicated "fault" when it was OK. So, although I did have a faulty valve control solenoid, they initially replaced the good one and left in the faulty one. Once this software glitch was understood, the faulty solenoid was replaced and all ran well. My service advisor said a lot of the time was spent in translating back and forth between German and English. Anyway, the car runs WAY better than when I picked it up. Staying below 4200 rpm is going to be difficult!
  6. Update: was out of town for 4 days. Took the car to the dealer today. Noticed a rough idle and varying rpms while idling. Dealer said the code had cleared itself, but the code showed a defective valve solenoid. They have to overnight a replacement from Atlanta. They hope to have it back to me in 1 - 2 days. Anyone heard of this with the new DFI 3.8s? TIA Update #2 Dealer called and said the new solenoid did not clear the fault. He told me that "bank #2" is not communicating correctly with the solenoid and therefore not opening the intake valves correctly (?) I assume this has something to do with the variocam and which cam profile to follow, but I work on people not cars. They are contacting Porsche for further instructions. I bought the 2009 to avoid issues with the RMS and IMS on the previous design. Anyone aware of this issue? How concerned should I be ???
  7. Update: was out of town for 4 days. Took the car to the dealer today. Noticed a rough idle and varying rpms while idling. Dealer said the code had cleared itself, but the code showed a defective valve solenoid. They have to overnight a replacement from Atlanta. They hope to have it back to me in 1 - 2 days. Anyone heard of this with the new DFI 3.8s? TIA
  8. Picked up a new 2009 C4S 6-speed 7/11. After ~ 200 miles, the "check engine" light came on. I had put gas in about 25 miles earlier. I checked the gas cap - it appeared to be tight. Talked to the dealer's service rep - was told not to worry if the light was not flashing and the car drove "normally." Well, the light is not flashing and I don't feel competent to evaluate if the car drives "normally" yet. I have been gentle and staying below 4000 rpm (the car had 34 miles on it). The dealer said the light may reset itself after 3-4 days anyway. As I live ~75 miles from the dealer, I don't want to drive it back if It is not necessary or if I will do some harm. Any advice? Thanks!! :unsure:
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