evan9eleven

Finally I can report that my cruise control is working! It only took 3 years... so it goes when the car and I are in 2 different countries and access to the Durametric Pro is an hour's drive away. Owen at Durametric was quick to respond to an email asking for help. I explained that there was no response when trying to code the cluster, and he sent me detailed instructions for making a log file for them to troubleshoot with. The log allowed them to solve the issue: the version of the software I was running (6.5.5.5) wouldn't work, so he sent a link to download a new version, 6.5.5.8. Using this version, I clicked to activate the cruise control in the cluster and the coding started (message shown in lower left corner) after 10 seconds or so I got a message that the coding was successful. And now everything works! One small thing: the green cruise lamp does not light. Not with the ignition-on lamp test and not when cruise is activated. This is a facelift car (2004 S) so the cluster is lit by LEDs, and I have confirmed that there is an LED in that spot. So the light in this model does not seem to indicate cruise being coded or functioning or not. No big deal, I'm just happy the cruise works, I couldn't care less about the green light! I hope this can help someone else, and thanks again for all the input everyone.

Thanks Richard. The kicker is that I had the car in to a Porsche Center, and they tried for an hour and a half to get this coded the first time around before giving up and telling me it must be my wiring. What exactly they tried I don't know as this was in Spain and the official P-dealer workshops there don't let you in to hang out while they work. Which is why I use a friend's indi shop and Durametric now. I'll email Durametric and see if they have any tips. Maybe one of my club buddies in Norway has a PST2 or PIWIS I can borrow.

Tried the coding again, and I'm afraid it was still a no-go. Same as before: when I click the button to code cruise in the cluster, nothing happens. The button animates, but there is no feedback or progress-- just nothing. As you will see in the pictures (sorry they are so bad) the order code is correct (it was already in place) and cruise shows as activated in the DME. As reported above the clutch switch is brand new. I tried cycling the ignition on and off, disconnecting and reconnecting the durametric several times, and waiting several minutes after trying the cluster coding button to see if it just needed time. I also tried deactivating cruise in the DME and then reactivating it before attempting the cluster coding again. I've run out of ideas folks!

Good to know also! Not an anniversay edition in my case.

Thanks for the replies guys, and the diagram Richard. I'm wired up as shown, so hopefully it is just the coding issue as you say. I'll make sure to get the order code in the DME first and do a full search of the modules. Crossing fingers I've learned enough this time around to get it right! Nick-- mine is a LHD car, thanks for the tip though, that will surely help out an RHD owner reading this in the future.

Hi everyone! A couple years back I decided to add cruise to my 2004 Boxster S. I have OBC from the factory. I installed a new 4-stalk switch and wired everything up per the pinouts above (same as found in Wayne's 101 Projects book also.) Long story short, I have never been able to get the cluster coded-- not at the dealer and not with Durametric Pro. Durametric shows cruise active in the DME but when we try to activate it in the cluster nothing happens-- no error message, no progress message, nothing. I'm going to have a go at coding again at a friend's indi shop later this week, and in preparation for that I've replaced the clutch switch with a new one from Porsche (the old one tested good, but hey, just in case) and taken the dash apart for the third time to check the wiring and all appears to be correct. Some suggested that a missing or burned-out dash lamp will prevent coding, but this is a facelift car, and has all LEDs for the dash lamps (I disassembled and checked.) The cruise lamp does not light when starting the car, but as understand it, it shouldn't unless cruse is activated. I believe I am down to the last options: 1) remember to make sure that the Order Code is set to 986320 before trying to code the cluster (didn't check this last time), and 2) maybe I have a faulty stalk switch or some wiring issue I haven't found. With regard to number (2) I did some checking while I had everything apart, and this is what I can tell you: a) turning on the cruise (stalk pushbutton) connects 12V between stalk pin 2 (supplied from fuse B7) and stalk pin 4 (and then gives 12V to cluster pin 1.) b) A push of the stalk towards "Resume/decel" gives continuity between stalk pins 1 and 4 (cluster pins 17 and 1.) c) A push of the stalk towards "Cancel" gives continuity between stalk pins 3 and 4 (cluster pins 4 and 1.) d) A push of the stalk towards "Set" gives nothing between any pin combinations. *This one concerns me!* As I mentioned, we'll try the coding again this week and see if the change of clutch switch made any difference, but if you guys have any input I'd love to hear it! ALSO: if someone can post or PM me the correct cluster/cruise wiring diagram for my car I'd really appreciate it. THANKS!

Yes, I know I'm crazy. At least my wife thinks so. Over the last months I've been trying to figure out how to make my own PSE with valves and a switch, which I have (mostly) successfully done: I started with a donor muffler from a 2000 S, purchased from a forum member. First it needed some polishing of course. I sourced the vacuum valves from Capristo in Germany. The plan was to do a partial muffler bypass (think Pedro or Fister) but pipe the bypass into the outer chambers of the muffler like the PSE, and with valved control. While this ended up being very tidy, in hindsight I should have run the bypass to the tips for more sound. Version 2.0 will do this, also internally so it will retain the tidy look (and hopefully pass EU inspections.) Since I can weld, I could build it any way I wanted to, but my box lives at my second house... so I had to configure the piping without access to the car, fly down there, and hope it would fit! The finished work: On to the wiring. Unlike the stock PSE from the factory, I am not interested in letting the ECU decide when to close or open my exhaust valves. I wanted a dash switch, where I get to pick when the beast is on or off. Since OEM dash switches are momentary, there needs to be a way for the circuit to stay activated or be deactivated with just a pulse from the switch. Solution: a latching relay. This great invention will allow a circuit to remain energized or be disconnected when triggered by a 12 volt pulse. Push the dash switch, the relay gets a quick pulse of 12V, and turns the circuit on (or off). In my case, I have the relay switching ground, since I needed a switched ground to turn on the LED on the switch when the circuit is active. When active, the circuit switches a vacuum solenoid valve in the engine compartment to start or stop the pull of vacuum to the exhaust valves. These valves default to open (i.e. sport mode) so I set up my vacuum connections such that the solenoid valve is off when the exhaust is in quiet mode. My thinking here was that I didn't see the point in having a solenoid switched on, getting hot and using energy on long highway drives in quiet mode. This meant getting a solenoid valve that has both normally open and normally closed connections, which was a bit of a pain. Carnewal sells a complete kit including a valve that is normally closed, and this would have worked too. I just wanted to do it my own way, as usual, so I bought the kit and sourced my own valve: Here is the wiring diagram as I set it up: Here is the relay connected up. Blue wire is +12V from a fuse tap, and from a switched supply. Brown is from constant ground. Red and orange in the harness are 12V that supply the PSE switch and solenoid valve respectively. Yellow is the 12V pulse from the PSE switch. Black and purple are the switched ground that activate the LED on the switch and the solenoid valve itself. It was important to me that this circuit shut off with the key to avoid battery drain, though it "remembers" the last setting. If you shut off the car in sport mode, it is still in sport mode when you start it next time, since the relay is mechanical and not electronic: Backside of the switches, I took this opportunity to add the Targa sun shadeswitch too, for my garage door opener. I ran the wiring under the center console and up into the engine bay along with the shift linkage: Then there were the vacuum connections. I don't have so many pictures of this part, but here you have the overview of what needed to be connected: Here are some closeups of the exhaust on the car: Lucky me, I have the world's coolest indi shop, TallerBox in Cartagena, Spain. I rented a bay for the day with a lift and tools, and had a blast doing all the work myself! A rough list of parts: -used OEM muffler -exhaust valves from Capristo -PSE connection kit and dash switches from Carnewal in Belgium -Durite latching relay from the UK -Pierburg vacuum solenoid valve from eBay UK -random wiring, fuse tap, etc -a ton of work and fun (priceless) All told, I think I spent a bit over $1000 on everything, not including my time and welding consumables. And of course… I had to record some sound clips. The verdict: not enough cowbell. Everything functions perfectly, the valves open and shut as they should, the electronics function just as designed. However, I was really hoping for a more dramatic difference in sound, so in version 2.0 I'll ensure more flow on the bypass side, plus pipe the bypass directly to the outlets. Back to the welding bench I go! I hope this is helpful to anyone else thinking about such a mod… I'll be happy to answer questions. Just don't ask me if it drones, its an OEM muffler so, no. :-) Video: http://youtu.be/whhbpRwjMuU

Thanks for the responses, both the "stealth" internal mod and the Pedro-style mods are fine for an OEM exhaust mod. However, you'll see that the OP wants to do a PSE style exhaust with valves for remote on-off operation. Thats what I am currently building as well and will post a full write-up when done.

Thanks for the reply Loren, and for a great forum. Its the PSE switch I'm wondering about. Please advise if I could have posted this somewhere else for both the 986/996 guys to see this, its a universal part for both cars while the 996 guys probably don't read over here much. Sorry about the double post.

Hi everyone! Can anyone tell me if all the Porsche 986/996 momentary dash switches with LED indicator have the same pinouts/internal wiring? I found the following diagram for the footwell lights switch and wonder if the PSE switch will have the same wiring. If I'm reading it correctly the LED indicator light (pin 5) will need to receive a switched ground when the circuit is activated. Anyone?

Hi from Norway smygolf! I am currently building a homemade PSE. I will post a full write-up when I get done, but here is the basic idea: -I am welding up a bypass similar to the stock PSE, I will use vacuum valves to allow part of the unmuffled exhaust to go straight to the outer muffler chamber and out the tips -OEM dash switch will turn the good sounds on and off -Parts list includes box S muffler, stainless piping, exhaust valves, dash switch, latching electrical relay, vacuum solenoid valve, vacuum tubing, wiring. So far I have most of the parts, I will be ordering the last bits next week and hope to have everything working on the car by February. I will get the kit from Carnewal also, but the solenoid valve he supplies is closed in a free (no vacuum) condition, while the exhaust valves are only available open in a no-vacuum state. Since I want my switch to determine on or off without supplying voltage and keeping the solenoid on when the exhaust is off, I sourced a solenoid that has connections for both normally open and normally closed states. I'll let everyone know how it goes. :-)