ntrylvl

Thanks! I ended up taking mine to the dealer based on my schedule/prioritization of my time. Glad this is done now. No more teakettle sound and no more fears about burning Pentosin (and a burning 996TTS)!

Hi guys, I didn't have any time this morning to do a search, so forgive me in advance if this has been answered, but can someone give me an idea of how complicated it is to install the reservoir and what is involved in doing so? I'm trying to determine whether I should do it myself or schedule it do be done by someone else...and the part should arrive today. Thanks for your help. Chris

For whomever reads this thread in the future, the latest part number for the reservoir is 997.314.920.31 as of 6/19/14. I ordered the part from Sunset today.

Thanks!!

Before I get into my post, I want to re-introduce myself to Renntech forums. I spent time on here in 2006/2007 when I had an '02 996, then an '02 C4S, but have been focusing more on my early 911 and 914 over the last several years. I recently purchased an '05 996 Turbo S, and I'm going through the process of acclimating myself to the car and troubleshooting some problems. Thanks in advance for welcoming me back, and for any assistance. So far, there have been a handful of small things that I have been able to fix with my car, but there's a sound I noticed and don't feel good about.... This is an old thread, but it is the closest thing I can find to describe the sound I'm hearing from my car. Basically, I have noticed a high-pitched sound coming from the car, primarily as I am coasting to a stop. It sounds sort of like a boiling tea kettle, but muffled. And it goes away when I put the clutch in. I have not heard it at idle yet, and I don't notice it when I'm accelerating, but it is consistent each time I come to a stop. Does this sound like the issue with the steering reservoir as mentioned above and covered in the TSB? Perhaps more importantly, how can I tell exactly where the sound is coming from if I don't hear it at idle, meaning I can't stand with the engine compartment open and pinpoint it? Thanks for the help. Chris

Another vote for Darin here. I contacted him last week after reading this thread, then drove out to his place yesterday morning for the mod on my '02 C4S. Darin is a great guy, the job was quick, and my car now growls the way it should.

My '02 C4S Coupe has Bilstein PSS9's installed by the previous owner. I bought the car in 2007 with these already installed and only 30K miles on the odo, and have since put just 6K on it myself. For the last several months, the car has been in and out of my mechanic's shop in an attempt to eradicate various causes of a noisy front suspension. First, the problem was a "creaking" sound caused by broken/deteriorated upper front strut mounts, which my mechanic replaced. That seemed to solve the problem until a couple of months later, when I started to hear a "binding" sound--actually the opposite of binding--would this be called an "unloading" sound? Basically, on certain right turns at slow speed only, I could hear a "knock" in the right front suspension. No similar sound from the left side, and no noises at all under normal driving conditions. My mechanic was able to duplicate the noise and noted that the inside diameter of the front spring appeared LARGER than the outside diameter of the upper spring retainer, causing movement and the sound. He then had several phone calls with the head tech @ Bilstein, who said he had heard of similar problems, but had no specific fix. Said tech then recommended installing teflon "isolators", which are normally installed in the lower part of the assembly, in the problem area as a potential fix. My mechanic installed these, and the unloading sound did, in fact, go away (has not happened one time since), but now there are creaking sounds and a slightly sloppy feel coming from BOTH sides of my front suspension, again at low speeds or when going in and out of driveways, over speed bumps, etc. Obviously, these sounds must be related to the isolators that were installed. Has anybody had a similar problem and been able to determine the correct fix? If not, can someone recommend anyone in the SF Bay Area who would likely be able to help? This is very frustrating. I am tired of taking my car in and out of the shop and I feel like this particular issue is over my mechanic's head. I am concerned that I won't be able to determine a definitive fix. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions. Chris Harrell

Absolutely agreed on all points. This is a first-class site, and its existence is much appreciated. Chris

FWIW, I had the same experience with my 2002 C2 Coupe, and now my 2002 C4S does it as well. It's something I have learned to live with. I guess it's just part of the Porsche "character".

Thanks, guys. I finally had the time and the courage to pull a little harder, and I was able to remove both mirrors to get rid of the buzz/rattle. Chris

Thanks, Loren. This may sound like a silly question, but is there only one set of metal clips, toward the outside of the car, behind each mirror, or does each mirror have two sets of clips? I'm only asking because I have pulled, and the mirror glass won't seem to come out. Thanks again. Chris

Hi all, I have an annoying rattle (buzz is probably a more accurate description) coming from the passenger's side rearview mirror on my 02C4S. I have searched the forum and noted that removing the glass should be pretty simple: just grab and pull. However, I have tried a couple of times and I am worried that I am going to break something. It's hard to get fingers in behind the mirror to grab and pull, and even a moderate tug results in nothing. If I pull harder, will I break it? In the meantime, I tried spraying some silicone lubricant behind the mirror glass, aimed at where the little tab connects inside, in an effort to kill the sound without removing the glass. It didn't work. Any thoughts or similar experiences? Loren, I know you said just pull, but is it really that simple? Thanks, Chris

The car looks great--thanks for the update.

You have already reached the pinnacle of car ownership with the 911. You have to be committed for the long haul. This problem is most likely just the car trying to get your attention and let you know that it is in charge. Car: "Who's your daddy now, huh???!" You: "You are." Enjoy! Chris

AVIA8R, Thanks for the tip. I was not aware of such an item. I'll look into it. Happy New Year. Chris

Congrats!

Thanks to all who helped. I did the install today and I must say I cannot be more pleased with the results. The one thing that ALWAYS bothered me about my car was the length of the shift throws. My car has a LWF, and I drive it around town quite a bit, which is a pain in the ***, particularly with the long throws. Now everything seems to have come together the way it should be. Wow! Happy New Year. Chris

Thanks, AVIA8R and gpkrider, for your help! AVIA8R, the shifter in your image is the EXACT same as mine. I will go out and pull that sucker off! Thanks again, Chris

Hi all, So I decided to take on a couple of P-car projects during my mini "break" from work (until Jan 2). The first was installing a front strut bar for my '02 996 Coupe. Easy. Today, I decided to go for the B&M short shifter install. The directions (with the kit and online PDF) seemed relatively straightforward, so I decided to dig in. However, I couldn't even make it past step 2, which is the removal of the knob. The directions indicate that I should be using a hex key and/or loosening a set screw, but I see nothing of the sort. Instead, there is a black plastic collar (approximately 2") that extends down from inside of the knob, over the shifter. Images attached. Am I missing something obvious? I don't want to pull too hard and/or break something in the process. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Chris

Team996, I primarily mean lucky in that I have been able to troubleshoot and eliminate/eradicate all of the most annoying sounds, generally with minimal effort. A lot of the information is here in this forum, in various posts, and many of the fixes can be determined by following basic logic. The most complex projects involved removing the door panels, which is not complex at all if you take it step by step. I have also known many p-car owners who look at me funny and give me the "it's the nature of the beast, sports cars are made to rattle" routine when I share my stories, but I simply cannot accept such an expensive and beautiful vehicle being just 98% wonderful. I want 100%--that's what I paid for. So I figure if I can make that extra 2% happen, then I can stop whining and enjoy the car more, and--of course--help others by sharing my experiences. Good luck in your quest. If you can't find/fix any of your car's "character" sounds by anything I have listed above, let me know. I may be able to help. Chris

If you search this forum, you will find many posts regarding various rattles, buzzes, and creaks that seem to appear (and sometimes disappear!), many seemingly without reason. I have had my MY02 C2 for just under two years now, and I think I have been generally lucky (knock wood) in terms of rattles and such, but I am very sensitive and have noticed (and repaired) the following: 1) constant "buzzing" sound coming from passenger door area = removed door panel and tightened a loose speaker screw, which was rattling against metal 2) similar intermittent "buzz" coming from driver's door area = removed door panel and could not find any loose screws or such - instead, I covered most of the inside of the door with Dynamat, then did the same for the passenger's side, for good measure = buzzing sound(s) gone 3) creaking sound from front windshield area = cleaned and lubricated between the windshield and rubber seal on the outside of the car (search this forum and you will find a step-by-step for this) = creaking gone 4) rattling in my sunroof = lubed the rails (including far back inside where the sunroof slides into the roof when open) - then I opened and closed the sunroof about 25 times in a row to work in the lube = no more rattle 5) today, I further eliminated some minor creaking from the passenger compartment by treating the rubber door seals with a german product called "Gummi Pflege", which I ordered from AutoGeek (you can buy it at the local Bimmer dealership for 8X the price) As for the effects of changing weather, it is generally agreed that rattles and creaks associated with these cars are magnified as the ambient temperature decreases. I hope none of this scares you away. From what I have read and experienced, it is true that these cars do develop noises, which is very annoying--as you pointed out--because the cars are NOT inexpensive. However, if you don't mind a little research and experimentation (including reading related TSB's on this site), you should be able to drive in a relatively quiet cockpit after all. Chris

My 2002 C2 (55K miles) has the same shaky passenger seat even though it idles--and runs--beautifully. I think this is something that is just the nature of the beast. You get used to it and it just becomes one of those "quirks" that you enjoy. I'm a generally paranoid person when it comes to my cars, but I've learned to relax a little bit with this kind of stuff. Drive the car and the car will restore your faith in it. All the best. Chris

All, Thank you for all of the responses. To take this back to the original post, I AM NOT bothered by the chatter in the least. I've lived with it for almost two years. The problem here is that I took my car in for some OTHER service, and my dealer heard the noise and decided to tell me that my transmission needs to be replaced. My inclination is to take the car back from them pronto, but I want to make sure that there really isn't a problem. I guess you can say they have me "rattled" (pun intended). Tholyoak, as for the suggestion that skandalis made, I wouldn't think of doing something like this, because--again--the noise does not bother me. I will be speaking with the dealer again this afternoon--it's hard for working folks to deal with anything but work between (at least) 8am and 6pm. Chris

I have NEVER heard a grind nor had a problem shifting into any gear. As I "prepare" myself for tomorrow morning's follow-up conversation, I'm leaning toward just telling McKenna to stuff it and give me my car back, and not even to waste one more minute of their time--or mine--talking about what I believe to be a non-issue. Thanks for the note

I brought my 2002 C2 to the local Porsche dealer (McKenna Porsche in Norwalk) today for an e-brake adjustment and an oil change. When I called the service manager to see if my car was ready, he said that he thinks my transmission needs to be replaced. The car is a 6-spd with 55K miles and has never been driven carelessly since I have owned it, which has been just under 2 years and only 9K miles. A little background: I purchased the car in February of 2006 from a local Porsche reseller. PPI showed no issues. However, I noticed a loud "rattling" sound at idle on the way home from purchasing the car, after it had warmed up. The sound went away when I would engage the clutch. Having just made such a large investment, I immediately called the seller in a panic, and they arranged to have the car looked at by McKenna Porsche. McKenna took a look and called to let me know not to worry, and confirmed that the car indeed had a brand new clutch and lightweight flywheel. This inspection cost me $0. I drove the car home the following day and have lived with that rattling sound--and no noticeable issues with drive-ability--since, thinking it's just the normal "chatter" that is associated with a LW flywheel. I have never heard another Porsche with this, so I cannot say for sure if mine sounds the same. I explained all of the above to the service manager today, and he confirmed that he would look back into the service history for the car, which I would have expected him to have done BEFORE calling me (my expectations for others are apparently always too high, but let's not digress...). So here's where I'm at as of this evening: I DO have a warranty/MBI (through February '08), which I purchased when I bought the car. The warranty is through GE Financial: 4-Star Coverage. I did provide all of this information to McKenna. The service manager is supposed to take another look at the car and service history first thing tomorrow morning to confirm that his techs really believe that there is indeed a transmission problem. If so, he is going to contact my warranty provider to confirm coverage. I have heard some pretty ugly stories about just-under-5-digit transmission replacements, and I am ABSOLUTELY not enthused about the prospect of having to pay for a replacement transmission. I am hoping the board can help me with a couple of questions: 1) Does it sound like the problem could really be the transmission itself, or is it possible that the tech made a snap judgment without considering the LW flywheel? 2) Does anyone have any experience with a warranty from GE Financial, and can I expect that they WILL cover the transmission replacement if it is actually necessary? As of now, I am expecting to get a phone call in the morning telling me that the transmission is fine, and that the chatter really is from the LW flywheel. If not, I am expecting that a tranny replacement will be covered by my warranty. If neither of these happen, and if the dealer insists that the tranny is bad but that I will have to pay, I am going to pick the car up and take it to my local independent shop for another opinion. Thanks in advance for any help. Chris