lkchris

If your heater control is in the lower console ...

1.  Remove the leather/vinyl sides of the console by prying at the front (toward firewall) side in three places to release clips.  Vinyl cover then rotates outward a bit and comes off.  The usual tool for prying is a plastic wedge--insert just under the vinyl edge bottom, middle, toward the top.

2.  You'll note the little plugs on each side of the trim frame surrounding the heater control unit.  You can basically pull the trim frame off with your fingers, locating them at the plug on each side.

3.  With your TORX screwdriver, remove the two screws securing the heater control unit to console.  The screws were hidden under the trim frame previously removed.

4.  Pull the unit out and disconnect wiring from back.

Repair source:  http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/wp-content/plugins/WooCommerce-car-filter/include/product_filter.php?make=68&model=902&syear=6126

If your unit is in upper dash section, it's pretty much the same, i.e. figure out a way to get the trim frame off.  The plugs holding the frame are in the center of each side.

Plastic wedge:   as available here:  http://www.samstagsales.com/klann.htm#body

Some relevant illustrations are included in Module Master's repair kit instructions:  http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/instructions/climate-control/Porsche%20Climate%20Control%20LCD%20Rebuild%20Kit%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf

Thanks for your response. If I learn anything earth-shattering, I'll post.

Have Mercedes parts ordered and noted they have a p/n for the pins to go with the connector block. The pins each cost more than the connector block.

PET also indicates a different popup spoiler for 2003-4 cars ... is this required to match that bumper?

Also, FWIW, most publications indicate the styling slots in the newer bumper are included to aid cooling of the muffler, as the engines are more powerful than previous cars.  Not really the usual aerodynamic purpose of "diffuser," that is.

Perhaps someone can provide some general information ...

Viewing the PET (parts system) it appears the potentiometer (the dashboard dial) for Boxsters is only standard equipment on S-models, i.e. option M008.  Or, it's included with option M265, Rain Sensor.  Incidentally, the potentiometer has a different part number with M265.

The thing is, however, PET only lists one interval relay, i.e. nothing different for models with the potentiometer factory installed.

That relay is 986 615 103 00

That's pretty similar to the 996 relay called for in the hack instructions, i.e. 996 615 103 00.

PET for 996 indicates this is standard equipment, although again there's a different part number if M265 is present.

My question then is why does the hack call for the 996 relay when PET fairly clearly indicates the 986 relay is used both with and without the variable intermittent potentiometer?  Is this something missing from PET?  Did Boxster S come with the 996 relay after all and it's just not shown in PET?  Inquiring minds ...

FWIW I can afford to buy the 996 relay but won't if I don't have to.

And, the links to the other instructions are obsolete so I tried to find answers elsewhere but didn't succeed.

you will have a difficult time finding a German vehicle built in the last 40 years where the brake light bulbs are not P21W

The type bulb required, BTW, is molded into the back side of the bulb holder.

Thanks, the single click thing worked pretty well.

Illustrations of wiring diagrams do not view clearly enough on screen or in print to be usable.

Are more clear versions available?

Thanks.

$58.85 + freight will get you each new speaker assembly from Porsche, including the grille, the midrange and the tweeter all in one unit.  Plug and play.

This from Gaudin and assumes you have option M490, i.e. dash speakers plus subwoofers in the doors.

Haven't looked up price for Option M441, which is dash speakers only, no amp in trunk, but same applies.

Nothing from search and nothing in Bentley or 101 Projects regarding this ...

Mine's suffering from pretty sticky action and maybe a little lateral play and what I've read indicates the only solution is a new one.

Is it as simple as unbolt and unplug and replace?

No PST resetting system or the like?

Anything I should order besides just the assembly?

Appreciate any suggestions/feedback.

 

I haven't seen him around in a while. He used to also sell high quality Porsche Door Sills as well. What exactly are you looking for? I may be able to help.

I'm amazingly confused with my car. It's a '99 996, CR-220 and M490 is on the option tag.

Unfortunately the previous owner took out the original amp and possibly some other items I'm unaware of. I'm trying to get the car back to OEM but with an aftermarket head unit.

Why are there two different amps labeled as M490? One says 4x40 and the other says 4x60. Will either work? Is there a way to tell which my car originally came with?

 

No, they are 4X40 and 6X40.

Boxsters typically arrive with 4X40, the four channels driving 2 dash speakers and 2 subwoofers in door.

996 cars have similar amps but 6X40, the six channels driving 2 dash speakers, 2 subwoofers in door, and 2 rear area speakers.

"Channel" means left or right.  40 watts per channel

Boxster S was available with tiptronic right?

If so, I'd really think it's the same unit as in yours and pretty sure you won't be able to tune your 2.5 anywhere past what an S is.

As of 2013, even the BMW boxer motorcycle engine is watercooled. Pollution and noise emissions, possibility of more power. VW have been watercooled since 1984, i.e. 1983 was their last air cooled engine. Porsche was frankly late to the game.

I installed Osram All Season H7s--which are yellow--in mine.

Vredestein Wintrac Extreme and Nokian both have correct sizes available. In fact they have both rear sizes.

Note that there are two approved sizes for rears and I'd do the smaller, I.e. 225/45. Fwiw it's the one tire chains will work with. This is described in owners manual.

There is zero reason to fit any but approved sizes.

See attachment

For the rest of your Porsches, see  http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/documentsanddownloads/

winter.pdf

Curious how to "torque to spec" when the spec is for a dry plug and when antiseize is a lubricant.

http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=O96AUlIBkU8

Or ... http://www.boschautoparts.com/SparkPlugs/Documents/Bosch_Mobile_PDF_SparkPlugs_130911.pdf?cid=sp-mobile-install-doc

Note step 7

Suggest the solution is yet another new radiator cap.

Not to mention cleaner sir.

For a very long time there were no DOT-approved metal braid covered lines. Then, technology was developed to coat them with plastic to permit printing DOT information on them.

You need five wires. Three of one kind and two of another. The yellow VW wires terminate in a special male connector. ...

When I did my 2001 OBC, there was conflicting info on the wires. In 2001, Porsche changed the connectors and all the wires should be the same. You no longer need to cut and splice the 2 different VW wires, you will need 5 of the same. I'm on a business trip this week, but if you search you should be able to find the details. I'm pretty sure for 2001 and newer you will use 5 of the 000 979 009 wires. These go into stalk connectors 1 through 5. For connector 1, cut off the other end and add an eyelet to screw in to a good ground

See no response to this ever posted.

Shall I assume this is correct?

The sheet metal speed nuts have been superceded by plastic washers that appear to just push onto the studs on the emblem. It's not as easy as it sounds, however, as while you could hold the old style nuts in your 8 mm socket, that's not feasible with the new part. It's also unclear which side of the washer goes where.

Any experience and tips here?

TIA

Part number for storage box changes with 2003 production.

There is no way to tell by serial numbers etc.whether a 2000 or 2001 car has a dual row or single row IMSB. They are mixed up..

I wonder how this corresponds with the fact the IMS class action settlement specifically identifies VINs?

For example, my 2001 is early production for that year and the VIN is not included in the settlement. (As if that made any difference--it's too old). Doesn't this combination fairly strongly suggest dual row? This given the conclusion the settlement only addresses single-row cars.

What is the VIN thing all about if not identification which cars have which?

Thanks