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No, Stefan, the fast idle cam provides a fast idle by holding the throttle open a bit. The cam is part of the throttle linkage. It's obviously used in conjunction with the choke plate, which is moved either manually or by spring action the spring affected by heat with a term I can't recall, bimetallic perhaps. The fast idle is set by flooring the accelerator, the choke plate is not.
The idle control valve is confusingly named. It does just that, but only at cold startup. Recall the old days when starting a carburetored car when cold? You pressed throttle to floor to set the "fast idle cam." The idle control valve is the fast idle cam for fuel injection. Both are necessary starting a cold car, because first of all this condition requires a rich mixture to overcome the fact a lot of fuel sticks to (precipitates out) the cold intake manifold and doesn't make it to the cylinder. But, normal idle (throttle plate) settings don't provide enough air to work with the rich mixture, so the amount of air is increased either by the fast idle step or the air bypass created by the idle control valve. When the engine--specifically the intake manifold--is warm enough, this extra air is no longer needed and the engine gets enough air through the carb or via the mass air sensor ... which now is finally doing its job and not bypassed. Despite the fact the idle control valve compensates a bit for the rich mixture--it keeps the motor running--it's still a rich mixture and there will be unburned fuel in the exhaust ... hence the air pump system that pushes extra oxygen into the exhaust manifold (for 30 seconds) to complete the burn of the fuel there. The idle control valve is closed and does nothing when the motor is warmed up. The air it bypasses would obviously be unmetered by the MAF sensor, limiting its effectiveness. Direct injection on newer cars clearly addresses the need for "choke." PS: more "memories" ... Remember the paper hose from the intake manifold to the air cleaner that all the geniuses immediately removed? Purpose solely to help warm up the intake manifold so car could run smoothly without choke sooner. Absolutely zero effect on performance after warmup. There were other systems used to speed intake manifold warmup, some using coolant.
There is nothing to “fix” and there is no “problem.” You can note in your owners manual where the functions of the light switch are described, the first click out is called fog lights and the second is called rear fog light (no S). It should be obvious to anyone with even a modicum of intelligence that two rear fog lights is the same thing as brake lights. In fact, the bulbs are exactly the same. German regulations are created with engineering common sense ... not something seeking cool doodahs. Only ever use this light in heavy rain, snow, or fog. It’s not a play thing. Of course, if you’re uncool like BMW, you’ll remove this feature on USA models. Cheaper I suppose or maybe they think unfamiliar Americans can’t handle it. They may be right.
It took me a year to realize the raise/lower thing is not electric ... since the switch looks just like the switch on my Mercedes which is. Since it's not electric, it only needs to move one direction to release ... after which you get it raised/lowered manually. This unless you have the 8-way seats in which case I'm no help.
I want to do the right thing and use the unique fluid from Porsche, but as known it's difficult to find in packaging useful for the individual DIY guy. Now, this is apparently an Audi transmission and what I've yet to find in forums is whether there's an Audi-sourced fluid in DIY useful packaging (or if they use the same fluid). Anybody know?
JimmyD, you dont want to "splice into door speakers," because by design the original amp is only sending them subwoofer frequencies. in addition, the options I noted in post above will activate your radio's fader control, which your splice option won't.
I did this as well, using information from other posts at this forum. i bought the kit from Suncoast, which provides two options for connecting the rear speakers ... 1. Connect them direct to the head unit. 2. Obtain a 996/911 M490 option 6x40 amp to replace existing 4x40 amp and connect rear speakers to the appropriate amp outputs. #2 should be considered the highly preferred option if you have M490, but there's more ... 996/911 amps come in coupe and cabrio versions and imho for the Boxster you for sure want a cabrio version. I found one with the same last three digits to the part number as my original 986 amp, 312 iirc. interesting thing is that with this setup the original door speakers--which are subwoofers by original M490 option design--really came alive and I now have bass up the wazoo. Somehow I think the original Boxster amp was misdesigned or something. Not necessarily the speakers, that is. Also, I initially installed a coupe version 6x40 amp, and subwoofer performance was unchanged ... leading me to believe "cabrio" is key. Also imho "hi fi" in a Boxster borders on futile in any event. I'm old, which could factor in, but unless the car is standing still, there's little sound besides wind and road noise when moving anyway. I do know that mine's improved, despite that, mostly with OE Porsche components, which appeals to me. I'm saving my pennies for the Porsche Classic radio ...
Cannot find mention of this switch in my owners manual ... PET calls it "Display Specimen," which isn't too helpful, but apparently it's an indicator or control for the trunk spoiler. What does it do ... how does it work? Clearly it's a dash switch, not the footwell switch. Apparently there are installation instructions somewhere ... can anyone post them or describe them? Part number shown is for the glossy version ... matte version is 986 613 425 10 A05
It may be surprising, but the genuine Porsche kit to install two cup holders in the top of your center dash stack sells for less than $100. I think it even comes with instructions for moving the hvac controller to the bottom position. The latter may require a new, also very inexpensive, plastic frame piece.
Just follow down from the spin lock--perhaps removal of the carpeted trim is required. It's a little tricky to remove, and is surely covered here somewhere you could find by searching ... probably for hardtop installation.