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About lkchris

  • Birthday 09/14/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    BMW motorcycles

Profile Fields

  • From
    Albuquerque, NM USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '01 Boxster, '07 GL 320 CDI
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    Mercedes W124, W210, R171
    BMW 533i, 633i

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lkchris's Achievements


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Community Answers

  1. I believe you're misinformed (actually misinforming) on this. As you surely know, the major German manufacturers all publish motor oil specifications which oil manufacturers must prove they meet. It's a formal process. Of course ACEA specifications are included. The fact is, any motor oil that meets the Porsche spec will be a full synthetic and meet a viscosity requirement. I once researched Mobil 1 products and learned that the cold pour points of 0W, 5W, and 10W versions were exactly the same. That's all that's of much importance regarding the W number in a viscosity specification, that is cold start ability. I'd not spend a nanosecond wondering which I should choose. The warmed up running number provides few realistic choices as regards 986 and these of course will be either 30, 40, or 50. (BMW sometimes likes 60) Again, if the product meets A40 the viscosity will be usable. 986 engines are a little older obviously, but in 2021 Toyota for some models specifies a 0W-16 motor oil and you can take to the bank it isn't going to fail in Death Valley. Neither they nor any other other manufacturer are blatantly or otherwise attempting to have your motor wear out prematurely--that's grassy knoll conspiracy mongering devoid of intelligence or interest. Experience indicates that it is typical self promotion felt needed by mechanics to dismiss factory engineering, in this case motor oil specifications. Typically, as again here, without technical supporting detail. I suspect it's especially ego satisfying and impressive to novices to recommend exotic things like Joe Gibbs oil. My response is if any of you are petroleum engineers, you'd have a better job. To blame bean counters or marketers is again typical nonsense. PS: ok, this is Porsche and we can all have lots of fun. If yours is a track day only vehicle, have fun using an exotic oil ... in fact have fun using it in a daily driver. The statement that A40 is all you need to know is accurate for most driving conditions and probably Porsche has set you free to do what you want for racing, as it doesn't accept responsibility for that in any event. PPS: these comments strictly about motor oil, other contributions on mechanical issues long appreciated.
  2. In mid 1990s new regulations were passed in Germany requiring auto parts be biodegradable. Wiring then, is performing as designed. First generation after a new requirement is seldom perfect; next and later generation cars always have better solutions. Many now have CAN Bus electrical systems which significantly reduce the amount of wiring required. Complaining about 20+ year old used cars is pretty silly anyway. They are what they are.
  3. I think once you find "Porsche A40" on the bottle your search can be over. Liqui Moly appeals to me a little more than Mobil, but both meet the standard. Viscosity is irrelevant.
  4. Here's why it drones. Unlike most cars that have their exhaust systems attached by hangers mounted to the under body, the Boxster exhaust system is mounted to the transmission ... which is mounted to the engine. The engine and transmission mounts are "tuned" to the weight of the engine/transmission/muffler package and when you reduce that weight by fitting a lighter (they are always lighter because they are cheaper) aftermarket exhaust, you have made the system out of tune and the drone is the result. There are actually aftermarket systems that do weigh the required amount.
  5. FYI 1999-2005 Porsche 996 911 Cabriolet Amplifier Amp 6x40 99664532300 M490 Haes WWW.EBAY.COM Porsche 996 Convertible Cabriolet radio stereo amplifier. HAES 6x40. In excellent condition.
  6. No, recall that Porsche sells as an option rear shelf speakers that would perform the function of fader rear. There is of course no directional presence for low frequencies ... and 2 of the four amp outputs are post crossover separation of low frequencies for the door woofers. It makes no sense to control them as fader rear and imho little sense to convert them to full range speakers ... again the rear shelf speakers are a better solution. See Suncoast Porsche for the kit. Search here will reveal a “pin out for 6x40” thread that will detail how to get rear outputs for full range rear shelf speakers. FWIW there are unused direct to speaker outputs on the Oe radio and those can be used to connect rear speakers as well. Nicer obviously to power them from auxiliary amp. its pretty easy to find a 6x40 amp from a 996/911 on eBay. They come in both coupe and cabrio versions and I’d recommend the cabrio version. Note that the wiring between radio and amp already includes rear speaker wires, so the only work is to accomplish amp to rear speaker wiring. As an aside, I’d venture the 4x40 circuit for the door woofers is limited ... when I installed the 6x40 amp, the door woofers really came alive ... it’s all around a better amp. Finally, note also that option 490 dash speakers are mid range plus tweeter, the crossover being at the speaker. And 6x40 means 2 dash, 2 rear, and 2 door woofers.
  7. Yes. The "brown plug" is used for the direct to speaker option. Not needed if going through the aux amp.
  8. How about I revive my old thread? Yes, my hardtop is an S version and has the titanium strip in the window gasket. The strip is sun damaged to brown ... anyone know of a replacement for that plastic "chrome" from some other source that would fit and look good?
  9. You don't. Two solutions ... 1. Radio has speaker out connectors as well as amp out connectors. You can use the direct to speaker outputs for your rear speakers. 2. Find a 6X40 amp from a 996/911 ... it will have working rear speaker outputs, and FYI your radio to amp wiring already has the rear outputs in the harness and connector. Note: there are 2 versions of the 911 amp ... coupe and cabrio. Cabrio is better for Boxster.
  10. Look up part numbers online here ... https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/pet/porsche/986/520u/
  11. Your door speakers are NOT rear speakers. They are woofers, and your auxiliary amp contains a crossover so they receive only bass frequencies. For rear speakers, you install the rear shelf system and connect those speakers to the actual rear speaker outputs that already exist on your radio. Better yet, obtain a 6X40 auxiliary amp from a 996/911 Cabrio, and wire the rear speakers to that. When you do either, you will then have expected fader operation.
  12. No, Stefan, the fast idle cam provides a fast idle by holding the throttle open a bit. The cam is part of the throttle linkage. It's obviously used in conjunction with the choke plate, which is moved either manually or by spring action the spring affected by heat with a term I can't recall, bimetallic perhaps. The fast idle is set by flooring the accelerator, the choke plate is not.
  13. The idle control valve is confusingly named. It does just that, but only at cold startup. Recall the old days when starting a carburetored car when cold? You pressed throttle to floor to set the "fast idle cam." The idle control valve is the fast idle cam for fuel injection. Both are necessary starting a cold car, because first of all this condition requires a rich mixture to overcome the fact a lot of fuel sticks to (precipitates out) the cold intake manifold and doesn't make it to the cylinder. But, normal idle (throttle plate) settings don't provide enough air to work with the rich mixture, so the amount of air is increased either by the fast idle step or the air bypass created by the idle control valve. When the engine--specifically the intake manifold--is warm enough, this extra air is no longer needed and the engine gets enough air through the carb or via the mass air sensor ... which now is finally doing its job and not bypassed. Despite the fact the idle control valve compensates a bit for the rich mixture--it keeps the motor running--it's still a rich mixture and there will be unburned fuel in the exhaust ... hence the air pump system that pushes extra oxygen into the exhaust manifold (for 30 seconds) to complete the burn of the fuel there. The idle control valve is closed and does nothing when the motor is warmed up. The air it bypasses would obviously be unmetered by the MAF sensor, limiting its effectiveness. Direct injection on newer cars clearly addresses the need for "choke." PS: more "memories" ... Remember the paper hose from the intake manifold to the air cleaner that all the geniuses immediately removed? Purpose solely to help warm up the intake manifold so car could run smoothly without choke sooner. Absolutely zero effect on performance after warmup. There were other systems used to speed intake manifold warmup, some using coolant.
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