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How about I revive my old thread? Yes, my hardtop is an S version and has the titanium strip in the window gasket. The strip is sun damaged to brown ... anyone know of a replacement for that plastic "chrome" from some other source that would fit and look good?
You don't. Two solutions ... 1. Radio has speaker out connectors as well as amp out connectors. You can use the direct to speaker outputs for your rear speakers. 2. Find a 6X40 amp from a 996/911 ... it will have working rear speaker outputs, and FYI your radio to amp wiring already has the rear outputs in the harness and connector. Note: there are 2 versions of the 911 amp ... coupe and cabrio. Cabrio is better for Boxster.
Your door speakers are NOT rear speakers. They are woofers, and your auxiliary amp contains a crossover so they receive only bass frequencies. For rear speakers, you install the rear shelf system and connect those speakers to the actual rear speaker outputs that already exist on your radio. Better yet, obtain a 6X40 auxiliary amp from a 996/911 Cabrio, and wire the rear speakers to that. When you do either, you will then have expected fader operation.
No, Stefan, the fast idle cam provides a fast idle by holding the throttle open a bit. The cam is part of the throttle linkage. It's obviously used in conjunction with the choke plate, which is moved either manually or by spring action the spring affected by heat with a term I can't recall, bimetallic perhaps. The fast idle is set by flooring the accelerator, the choke plate is not.
The idle control valve is confusingly named. It does just that, but only at cold startup. Recall the old days when starting a carburetored car when cold? You pressed throttle to floor to set the "fast idle cam." The idle control valve is the fast idle cam for fuel injection. Both are necessary starting a cold car, because first of all this condition requires a rich mixture to overcome the fact a lot of fuel sticks to (precipitates out) the cold intake manifold and doesn't make it to the cylinder. But, normal idle (throttle plate) settings don't provide enough air to work with the rich mixture, so the amount of air is increased either by the fast idle step or the air bypass created by the idle control valve. When the engine--specifically the intake manifold--is warm enough, this extra air is no longer needed and the engine gets enough air through the carb or via the mass air sensor ... which now is finally doing its job and not bypassed. Despite the fact the idle control valve compensates a bit for the rich mixture--it keeps the motor running--it's still a rich mixture and there will be unburned fuel in the exhaust ... hence the air pump system that pushes extra oxygen into the exhaust manifold (for 30 seconds) to complete the burn of the fuel there. The idle control valve is closed and does nothing when the motor is warmed up. The air it bypasses would obviously be unmetered by the MAF sensor, limiting its effectiveness. Direct injection on newer cars clearly addresses the need for "choke." PS: more "memories" ... Remember the paper hose from the intake manifold to the air cleaner that all the geniuses immediately removed? Purpose solely to help warm up the intake manifold so car could run smoothly without choke sooner. Absolutely zero effect on performance after warmup. There were other systems used to speed intake manifold warmup, some using coolant.
There is nothing to “fix” and there is no “problem.” You can note in your owners manual where the functions of the light switch are described, the first click out is called fog lights and the second is called rear fog light (no S). It should be obvious to anyone with even a modicum of intelligence that two rear fog lights is the same thing as brake lights. In fact, the bulbs are exactly the same. German regulations are created with engineering common sense ... not something seeking cool doodahs. Only ever use this light in heavy rain, snow, or fog. It’s not a play thing. Of course, if you’re uncool like BMW, you’ll remove this feature on USA models. Cheaper I suppose or maybe they think unfamiliar Americans can’t handle it. They may be right.
It took me a year to realize the raise/lower thing is not electric ... since the switch looks just like the switch on my Mercedes which is. Since it's not electric, it only needs to move one direction to release ... after which you get it raised/lowered manually. This unless you have the 8-way seats in which case I'm no help.
I want to do the right thing and use the unique fluid from Porsche, but as known it's difficult to find in packaging useful for the individual DIY guy. Now, this is apparently an Audi transmission and what I've yet to find in forums is whether there's an Audi-sourced fluid in DIY useful packaging (or if they use the same fluid). Anybody know?
JimmyD, you dont want to "splice into door speakers," because by design the original amp is only sending them subwoofer frequencies. in addition, the options I noted in post above will activate your radio's fader control, which your splice option won't.