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wulabs

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    2000 S
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  1. I have a full set of brand new cross drilled Zimmerman rotors for a 986 non-S if you would like to purchase. Located in SF bay area. PM for details.
  2. Could torque converter lockup cause engine misfiring? I'm getting P0740 codes, mechanic said torque converter was locking up, could the engine misfiring be due to that?
  3. There are 2 in the dash and 1 in the door for both sides.
  4. Took it to streetwerke, diagnosed as: Engine Misfire P0740 Automatic transmission problem a bunch of O2 codes Took it to modderman: Mechanic said engine spark plug was most likely due to the torque converter locking and unlocking. They're taking a look now, we'll see whats wrong with the tranny
  5. Hi On my 2000 S Boxster with 62k miles, 60k service done at indep shop. Currently my CEL is on, and my car shudders a lot when on. When the throttle is pressed, the sound of the engine somewhat alternates and isn't really locked on at a given frequency (think of a Mustang GT's engine sound which kinda pulsates). The car also shudders, and there is a wierd pulsating sound coming from the exhaust. This is the 2nd time I've had this problem: Yesterday as I was driving from SF to Palo Alto (after the car was warm) I started to have the CEL blink sometimes when the RPM went over 5k RPM. By the time I got to Palo Alto, the CEL was constant on, and by the time I got to the local roads I could feel the symptoms described above. The first time this happened (about 2 weeks ago) I just drove a few miles locally the next day and the symptoms dissapeared and the CEL went away a few miles after that. I brought it in to the indep shop and it was diagnosed with the Porsche Scanner. I don't recall the exact codes, but the mechanic did mention something about the torque converter/auto transmission. I did a search on these forums and it looks like the closest thing is this code: P0740. Does anybody know what could possibly be wrong, how much it might cost, and what I should do?
  6. Sounds fine. Check the coolant tank/hoses for any sign of leakage...i got hit by one of those, they are very common. Looks like Manufactuer Year 2000 but purchase in 99. Have fun!
  7. I have a jack stand and a jack. Do I also need a ramp? I will be working on a level area....sorry no inlicined street driveway gutter.
  8. Firstly I've read and searched a lot on these forums. So any questions I have are due to stuff I could not find. MY 2000 Boxster S. This will be my first brake job. I am planning to do front + back, pads, rotors, fluid flush. My brake lights have not come on yet, looks like the pads have 3-4mm left in front and rear. The rotors are at 22 and 25mm. I have 4 new zimmerman rotors, 2 new rear pads (2 front ones come in another week), and ATE blue and amber fluids. Questions: -I think I need to paint the rotors. Where do I spray the paint? front and back? whole rotor? Should I cover the disc area with painters tape? -Can I use the old front pads with the new front rotor for a week or so until I get my new pads? -What order should I do stuff in? Flush, then rotors, then pads? -Any wierd tools that I will need? I will have a helper thus won't need a powerbleeder. -The new pads are Hawk HPS (Should get them in a few days). Do I need to drill holes for the sensor? If so, how do I do that? Do I need special tools? -Anything else I should know? I will be following the Bombay digitial tutorial as well as Loren's tutorial.
  9. Mark and a friend were able to help me out over the weekend. it took a long time to try to remove the black rod on the stuck side (about an hour?!?!) We eventually got in from the inside, used pliers, and yanked the clip off. In the process we also took off the broken cable (the cable connection to the motor had snapped off). Yes I have the upgraded cables in my 2000 S. The cable is "stranded" rather than "solid", which Mark remarked as being the first time he has ever seen that. We were able to put a drill to the cable and spin it just a lil bit. Another note, on 2000 and above, there is a plastic covering which extends further down than pre-2000 models which makes it VERY difficult to get any leverage on the black rod when trying to pop it out. I will post pictures once I get around to it. You can also email me and I can send them to you. Current status is: My top is in manual mode (manual mode ain't bad, since I have to chop the back window anyways!) until I get the replacements and fix the mechanisms.
  10. Hey guys, I spent a few hours trying to release the black rods but to no avail. I was able to get the clip (on one end of the black push rod) off on the left side (the working side). The right side of the car is a different matter. I was able to get the clip bent so its not locked into place, but the force on the clip is so high that I am unable to make the clip budge and slip off. The shelf is IN my car and I have no way of getting it out, it makes working from the inside terribly difficult. From the inside, I tried using a flathead to pop off the ball joint on the right side black rod, but to no avail. Can somebody help me try to get the right rear black rod off? The clamshell is shut on the right side, and I can lift it up for about 2-3 inches of clearance but thats about it. I'm in Mountain View. My email is WULABS@GMAIL.COM. I work during the day time... As I mentioned earlier, the V itself is not turning on the right side, which leads me to believe the right side motor is broken. -Jack
  11. Looks like I have to do this (thanks guys for the guides and etc): 1) open clam shell, prop the stuck side open with towels. 2) remove clips on left and right sides, which attach the pushrod to the rear of the shell 3) use flathead to remove red ball joints 4) diagnose problem after shell is removed. I plan on using the car in manual top mode for a little while until I figure out what needs to be replaced. Too bad its still raining in NoCal!
  12. I'm so unlucky! 3rd car problem within a month! At this rate I will be struck by lightning tommorow! This time, my convertible is stuck in the up position, the right side flap doesn't want to raise so my top can come down. The left side of the clam shell can open a gap up to 12 inches high, while the right side stays in the normal down position. I didn't try opening any further for fear of breaking the clameshell thing. I briefly looked under the clam shell, there is an arm (looks like a 'V' or 'Y' or a seesaw" which is at a 30 degree (from horizontal) angle on the left side of the car, and the one on the right side is still at 0 deg horizontal. So it would seem like the motor for the right side is broken. (I believe the motor drives this 'Y' piece to rotate, but i'm not sure.). Another diagnosis, when operating the switch, sounds like motor sounds from both left and right sides...which indicates the transmission/motor for both sides are still working. If somebody else has had similar problems, please email me WULABS@GMAIL.COM or post here. I need to order parts soon. I am located in Palo Alto. I am planning on going through the forums to figure out how to transform my car into a manual convertible...better than a broken auto convert....until I figure out what the *#%@ is broken. I then plan on doing a manual repair myself. Pictures here: http://www.wulabs.org/jack/car/top/
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