StantonGTI

Hi All, I am in the process of swapping a new/used motor into my 1999 C2. I found out the hard way what shifting from 4th to 1st while doing 100 will do to a motor (I was on the track). Anyway, I purchased a salvaged 2000 C4. I now how both motors out, and after doing some things to the new motor, it will be going into my 99. Right now, I know there are two differences that I am trying to figure out the solution to before I start the install process. 1. My car is a 99 with a throttle cable. The 2000 C4 has the EGAS/Drive By Wire. What is the procedure I need to do so the new motor is using the throttle cable. I know I need to use my old throttle body, but what do I do for the wiring? Do I need to use my old harness? Or can I modify the harness that is on the EGAS motor? 2. The donor car has the fuel cooler lines attached to the AC compressor. My 1999 does not have this set-up. How do I adapt this? Ideally, I don't want to have to use the AC compressor from the donor car, because I know my compressor is almost brand new. Is it possible to eliminate the fuel cooler lines from the 2000? Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

Thanks JFP I pulled the screw on filter to check for any issues. Poured the oil into a cup, dipped a magnet in, and unfortunately it was covered in sand sized metal particles. A little looking and a few larger pieces were found. So it is not looking good. Fortunately, I trailerd it down and it was the last event of the season, and I was not assigned a student this weekend so I got to go home early. Over the next couple of weeks I'll drop the pan to see what I can see, but I imagine the motor will be coming out and will be replaced or potentially rebuilt depending on damage. I checked the durametric for over revs. It showed 214. I'm not 100% sure when that occurred. Or what 214 represents. I had not checked for over revs since I purchased the car in April. I did have on not so great shift during the session, but it was a couple laps before I lost power, so it seems a little unlikely the shift caused damage.

Hi All, Have my 1999 911 at the track today. During the first session, car began misfiring, lost power, and eventually stalled (would have turned it off sooner, but had to get off line). Codes pulled from Durametric are: P0157 - o2 Sensor behind cat converter. Cylinder (4-6) P0300 - Misfire damaging to cat. converter P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire damaging to cat. converter P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire damaging to cat. converter Other things that may help: 1. Looks like there is oil coming from the AOS area (wet on the side of the cam adjuster) - the AOS only has 10K miles on it, but I know that does not mean anything 2. Looks like there is some oil towards the rear of the motor of the drivers side, coming from above, but nothing looks wet from the top 3. I did try to start it (probably dumb). It runs for a second, and turns off. It is running rough, but does not sound like there is a bunch of metal floating around What's odd about the codes is that the o2 sensor code appears to be on the opposite side of where the misfiires are happening, which does not make sense unless they are unrelated codes which seem unlikely. There are lots of threads with these same codes, ranging from bad o2 sensor (please, let that be it) to blown engines. Where do I start to diagnose? I plan to pull the filter and drain oil to take a look, once the engine cools, but any further guidance would be great.

Thanks. Already made the appointment, just in my head it makes no sense on why something would change, but I guess if some is in just a slightly different place,than what it was during last alignment, it could cause issues.

Hi There, I just replace the lower control arm on my 99 Carrera. All of the DIYs I read say I need an alignment after this is complete, but all of the DIYs are part of a larger suspension refresh (tie rods, end links, etc.) Since I just did the lower control arm, is an alignment necessary? I did not loosen or move any of the alignment points in replacing the control arm. In my mind (which I admit can be limited), If I did not adjust anything that can throw off the alignment, and none of the bolts I removed are used to adjust alignment (at least I don't think they are) could the alignment be off? This is a track car, and I'm about to put 4 new tires on it, so I will most likely get the alignment done, just wondering what could cause it to change if I am not adjusting anything.

Hi All, Thanks again for the help. Now for the next question. What is the proper procedure when using a durametric when bleeding a 996 with ABS but no PSM? I can find the tutorial for PSM, but not non PSM. Thanks!

Awesome. Thanks!

I did some more digging. I found a couple of things. Not sure if any of them could be the cause. 1. The electrical connection to the brake fluid reservior is cracked and and loose ( I can see the connection inside of it). I assume this is just a level sensor, so I am ruling that out for now. 2. The ABS pump is missing some of it's mounting points and is kind of just floating there. The bracket is only held in by two of the four bolts, and the pump is not secured to the bracket. This is obviously something that needs to be fixed, but not sure it would cause the issues. Anyone know the correct bolts to secure the ABS pump to the bracket? 3. There was a bit of fluid on top of the lines going into the ABS pump. This seems to go against gravity, so I am guessing some may have dripped down there as I was bleeding the system this weekend. 4. I did put the Motiv Bleeder on it for two days. The pressure dropped by 2lbs. Not sure if this is an accurate reading, or if it could be due to temp swings we had over the last two days. 5. I drove the car for the first time since Sunday, and the pedal is rock hard. When I was at the track and I let it sit between sessions, I thought I was getting the full pedal back, but after driving it today, I realize I was not. My next steps: 1. Replace all bleed nipples 2. Replace all soft brakes lines 3. Secure ABS pump 4. Bleed system using durametric (will be here on Monday). 5. Swap to some more aggressive pads (although I really don't think it was that as I was not on the brakes that hard). I am also considering swapping the ABS pump. I've seen a few other cases where people had the same issues over the course of season, and it ended up being the ABS pump although nothing really pointed to that. They are currently selling for $50-$100 on eBay, and seems easy to swap. I figure if I am playing with brake fluid next weekend, it's better to do it all at one time. Any other thoughts?

For checking for leaks, would putting the Motiv Pressure Bleeder on it, and taking it to 20PSI and leaving it on over night work to check for leaks?

Thanks JFP in PA. Car does not have PSM (at least has no button for it), but I will try that. As far as activating the ABS, does that need to be done with a durametric, or is there a procedure for doing that with it?

Yes. Fluid level is stable. Actually when I first checked it was a bit over the Max line. When I flushed, I did make sure not to exceed the Max line.

Hi All, I've done some searching and have not found concrete answers. Some history on the vehicle/issue. It is a new to me 1999 C2 with 115K. No PSM. Just before my purchase a new brake booster was installed because the car had a soft pedal at the track. The issue was diagnosed by a Porsche dealer, but was installed by the owner previous to me. The owner had some issues getting the system bled, so he took it to an Indy to get it done. Once I took delivery of the car, I drove it 1-2 days per week on the street with no real issue, although now that I think about it, I may have had one hard braking situation where the pedal got soft. Fast forward to this weekend which was my first track weekend since purchasing the car. After about 7 minutes on the track, the pedal got real soft, almost going down to the floor. It was still braking, but I didn't have a ton of confidence in it, so I came in. This is on Porsche Pads with Stock Rotors. I can't believe I got the fluid too hot since it was the first time I was every driving a 911 on the track (previous cars were a miata and two e36 M3s), all with very different driving dynamics, so I was taking it easy, in a lower run group, and I was at a small track with only 5 turns with just one hard braking zone. It was also on 40 degrees. Since I was not sure what type of fluid was used after the brake booster swap, I did a full fluid flush with SRF using a motiv bleeder (starting from right rear wheel, moving closer to the MC). Took it back onto the track, same result. Came back, and rebled, using the two person method (I had read that the power bleeders could cause an issue). Took it back on track, and same result. I read that the ABS pump may need to be bled, so I plan on buying a durametric, so I can do that (although I also read it does not always work, and the dealer is the only place that can bleed). One thing of note that I do not think would matter, but two of the bleed nipples were stripped. I was able to use vice grips to do the bleed, just thought I would mention. I do plan on replacing all of the line (although they are only 3 years old), and all of the nipples. Any thoughts on what I should do next? Don't really want to throw parts at it. Also, any thoughts on how I could test without actually being at the track/getting arrested for doing a bunch of threshold braking on the street? TL:DR - New to me car, stock pads and rotors - Previous Owner replaced brake booster due to soft pedal, had Indy shop do the bleed - My first track weekend, pedal would get soft after about 7 minutes (not very hard on the brakes) - Flushed and bled with SRF and MOTIV Bleeder - Happened again after next session - Bled again using manual two person system - Still happening Thanks in advance for the help.

Thanks again!

Thanks! Do you know if that sensor is located by the suspension or the headlight?

Getting Check Headlight Beam Adjustment Warning. Dealer says it is the front level sensors (makes sense, drove through huge puddle and started to get the warning). Every part number I find it says for cars with air-suspension. Are the level sensors the same for cars with air and without?

Hi All, I posted a couple weeks ago about swapping out seats in my 04 Cayenne S. Thanks for the advice on that. I had planned to swap out seats I had found, but that is prooving to be a challenge for the following reasons. 1. First set the junkyard sent did not have memory 2. Second set they sent had memory, but not heated (at least I think they are not heated since they do not have a relay). The only reason why I was swapping out the seats was to get my heated seat working again (everything else works) My questions are: 1. In 2004 were there heated seats that did not have the relay under the seat? 2. If there are heated seats from 2004 without the relay under the seat, I assume those would not work in my car that has the relay under the seat (correct) 3. The seats that came with my car are they PD4 Electric CMFT Pkg Spt/CM Seats / PEC Comfort Seats with Memory. Is it possible to replace just the element in this seat, or are they sewn into the leather. If it is possible to change just the elements, any clue on the part numbers? Any other advice on how I can get this heated seat working again, would be great. I have tested the switches and the relays, and occasionally, if I sit the "right" way, it will work.

Hi All, I have an 04 Cayenne S with the Heated Comfort Seats with Memory. The heating element has gone in the drivers seat. Long story short, it appears easier and cheaper to swap out the seat with a good used one. The leather on my current seat is a bit rough, so it is actually a win/win situation. I'm actually going to be swapping out the passenger side too, since I got a good deal on the pair, and leather is a bit rough on my current passenger side. Anyway, on a couple posts, I have read that you should not disconnect the seat from the wiring harness because it can cause issues. To do this swap, I'll obviously need to disconnect the seats. What will I run into if anything? Also, would there be less issues if I swapped out the memory/power seat controllers from my existing seats? Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Has this PDF been added to the DIY (I cannot see to find it), or can someone provide it? Just had my driver's side go out on my 04S. kristofferjmurphy (at) gmail.com

Thanks for the reply. Any documentation you have would be great.

Hello, Just purchased an 04 Cayenne S. It's in nice shape with a TON of service history. One thing that is not working is the drivers heated seat. The passenger seat is working without a problem. The fuse is good. I have read that it could be the relay/heated seat module. Since the passenger seat works, I was going to swap that over to see if it fixes the problem. I have two questions. 1. Is there a relay and a module, or is it one in the same? 2. Where are they located? I know they are under the seat, but where? And does the seat need to come up to access them? Any help would be great. Thanks.