Punkd

How would I connect a gauge manually though?

I have not, unfortunately I'm done being lied to by the shops in my area and I don't have a gauge. I will try replacing the sender unit but I'm a bit skeptical about it because of the fact that I had spun bearings which indicates that my pressure was In fact low. But I'll change it out anyway if I can get my hands on one within the week. Yeah temperature is normal. Ill get a sender just for the sake of ruling it out (I'd be very happy if it solved my problem). And last thing on my mind is the oil pump. What do you guys think? Another mechanic took apart my pump for inspection and said it's in fine condition, but then again a lot of these guys are idiots. I can get a used pump from a Porsche yard nearby for a few bills. But from I understand dropping the engine is the only way to get it on.

That provides some clues. I thought you had low oil pressure even at cold. I'm thinking that it is more likely a temperature issue than oil system. At a cold startup, you should be at full 4-5bar which you are seeing. If you rev the engine, does the oil pressure move up with RPM's or does it stay at 1/2 bar? Have you removed the front bumper and cleaned the radiators? Was the water pump replaced during the engine work? _____________ Incidentally, for your P0140 check engine light: If you can hear the air pump running at cold startup, it is likely your combination valve (#3) in this picture, the vacuum line connecting to it, solenoid that controls it or one of the other vacuum lines is disconnected or mis-connected. Do you hear the air pump running at cold startup? You can also open the rear trunk lid and touch it after a cold startup to see if it is running. Let's work on the oil problem first. Cold start pressure is normal 4-5 bars usually 5. Temperature is normal. Hottest it gets is right in the middle of the 0 on the180. I removed both radiators and cleaned them out. Flow is very good. Also I did change the oil cooler during the rebuild. Water pump was changed before the rebuild right Wehrmacht I got the car. Old one was plastic, replaced it with metal pump. Temperature isn't the problem from what I see. I have 3 bars at 5000 rpm fifth gear. It's only on idle when I'm at .5 bar.. As for my secondary pump, it works fine. Off the bat I noticed they messed up with the vacuum lines right by the solenoid they put a Y shaped split which shouldn't be there. Do you think the oil problem may be related to vacuum line mess up? I know they broke a line or 2 but I can arrange the lines correctly.

Thank you for the pictures, I'll let you know once I have it all removed. And no, at cold startup it's between 4-5 once at ~210 it's at half bar.

Yes both times I purchased new aos. I'll take the sump off today. Is there anything in specific I should be looking for? Also is it possible to remove the oil pickup tube to clean the filter screen better? Also is it possible that I have a bad valve and it's unable to pull air from the valve causing all the vacuum to be pulled from the aos?

Long story short, I got a 01 996 c2 last summer and I still havnt been able to drive it. When I first got it, I noticed the oil pressure was ridiculously low but people told me it was normal as long as the light didn't turn on. (The light only turns on when it's almost at 0 which doesn't sound right at all).I drove it for about a month and my engine siezed. I had a spun bearing. Had the engine take apart bearings changed along with a standard rebuild and they told me bad bearings were the reason oil pressure was low. Now I have my car back and I still have low oil pressure. Here's what I've changed so far: Bearings Pressure relief spring and piston 2 AoS separator (the first one failed because idiot left the oil cap off with the car started, the second time it was because I thought i might have gotten a bad aos causing the oil pressure problem) Oil filter 10w-50 synthetic oil My check engine light also keeps coming up, secondary air injection system p0410. I have a feeling they messed up with the vacuum lines. Now here's the interesting part. When I opened up the aos line that goes to the throttle body, I noticed it was quite oily, but I can't possibly have 2 defective aos, can I? I eliminated the oil pressure gauge due to the fact that pressure was so low it spun bearings. Any information could help. Thank you

If you have an M96 engine that actually blew a head gasket, it would be the first one I have ever heard of doing that; the M96 simply does not blow head gaskets. When these engine's suffer intermix issues, the three most common candidates are blown oil coolers, cracked cylinder heads, and cracked or slipped cylinder liners. Quite often, the cracks are very difficult to see without special procedures: Normally, when we get in an intermix car, we pull the oil cooler and pressure test it. If it passes, we pull the heads and start searching for what has cracked. Putting the engine back together without proper checking for cracking was the wrong move, the coolant that reenters the oil really tears up the bearing shells quickly, usually ending up with spun bearings and/or a seized engine, as you have discovered. And not to pick on your shop, but if you have suffered and intermix, the sump should have been pulled and all "residual" mix flushed out. I think you are still facing an engine with an internal crack somewhere. Hey JFP, thanks for the quick reply. The shop I took it to are Engine builders. I assumed they would know what they were doing that's all. The mixing before I took it to them was extreme but it's pretty minimal now. The cylinders did have scratching but I'm 100% certain they're not cracked and as for the heads, it's possible as I hadn't even gotten into any detail about it. The oil cooler was changed, guanine Porsche cooler. I just believed them when they said it was a blown head gasket I guess :(. Would that cause my oil pressure problem?

I have a 01 996 with a ton of problems, I'll start from the beginning. I bought the car with a bad head gasket from some guy with a ton of intermix, oil in coolant, I had the gaskets replaced with a valve job done and of corse resurfaced heads. I Bought a new oil cooler just to be on the safe side. While starting up, about 30 minutes after we started the car, the oil separator failed (guy had left oil cap open). So he ordered genuine part from the dealer and replaced it. When I took the car out of the shop, I noticed the oil pressure was low but I'm not sure if it was low before I took it to them. I also got a secondary air code. They said it was probably the sender unit and assured me everything was fine. About 1500 miles later my engine seized. When we got there, I saw there was oil in the coolant and they assured me It was residual. They took the engine apart and saw rod 3 bearing failed. Told me that was probably the reason my oil pressure was low. Bought a used crank, used rod and new bearings from dealer. Put my engine together and I still have low oil pressure. And I'm still seeing oil and the water. I was with the guys through the entire process so I thought maybe I might have a defective a/o separator that might be sucking oil out of the crankcase into the water tank causing mixing and low oil pressure so I changed it out myself and I'm still getting low oil pressure, mixing and still have the cel light. I'm so stuck right now. Can anybody give me some clues as to what's going on. I'm 90% sure we have no cracks in heads or engine block because they did a valve job, and the block was taken apart with no visible cracks. What can cause low oil pressure, oil mixing and possibly a secondary air problem. Thank you!