5thlilpiggy

Thats cool, Ill make a site donation instead. Im not ready to go that far, but thanks for the optimism :D

Update: Drove about 200 miles since the last post with no funny business out of the PSM or DME. Went over 80 today to give the air suspension a test (I had refrained all week cause I hate seeing the warning for half the drive) and it went to Low quickly with no trouble. Big thanks to to JFP for all your help thus far. If you want to PM me your paypal Id be happy to toss you some beer money. Until next time...

Could I have caused a canbus issue with my work in the serpentine and vacuum leak troubleshooting? At any rate, that sounds like I would need a durametric or PIWIS to diagnose? Went to work with no codes. Raised to terrain and lowered to normal with no issues. Did not try low yet. Do you know why it can go down, but only to normal level?

Did the alternator test, and it read at 13.9 with the Good light lit the whole time. Swapped out the battery. The old one was a 730CCA, so probably low end. Went for a drive around the block and all was fine. Got back to the garage and tried to lower the suspension...workshop failure. Re-started car, selected terrain level and it successfully went up and looked even. Selected normal, and it successfully went down and looked even. Selected low, and got workshop failure. Seemed like there is a slight tilt to passenger side. Restarted again, hit raise, and all hell broke loose. RPMs hunting between 300 and 1200, CEL on. Turned off and ran the codes. Had DVE amplifier, a throttle code, and misfires on 4, 8 and random. Also had DME com error in the transmission and steering angle sensor errors in a couple of other modules. Cleared them all, waited a few min and started again. Had normal idle, so I went around the block and all was fine except now I couldnt raise suspension because it said the compressor was charging. The compressor was definitely on when I raised to terrain the first time, but didnt seem to be on when I got back this time. Is my DME going out?

Just tested the battery. Looked like it went down to 10.4, but the tester lit up Weak (out of Bad, Weak, Good).

Will do. The main thing r.e. comfort is that its a daily driver and I dont have a ****kicker 3rd car anymore, so anything that could take more than an afternoon needs to be a weekend plan. I did drive all over today totaling about 100 miles with no funny business other than the air suspension not being able to drop at 80. I didnt want to push my luck though so I left the A/C off even though it was hot today :lol:

Not so much the comfort level, but maybe Im not understanding the simplicity of access :huh: Can I get to the terminal and primary wire just by removing the tire and wheel well liner? If not, and you have to go through the first parts of the alternator removal process, I dont see how you could do that, hook everything up, and still have the engine run. Edit: Im sure your way is much more thorough and appropriate, so dont think this is a counter argument :cheers: I just read the instructions that came with the load tester. It says to just hook up to the battery terminals and when you rev to 12-1500rpm it will run a charging system draw to test the alternator.

Do you mean I just need to put an amp meter on #40 or #41 or actually tear the airbox, etc. out and get it directly on the alternator?

Wait, so I need to tear in and get alternator access to test the alternator?

Does the alternator test need to be done at the alternator terminals? That sounds dicey...

Thanks! Can testing be done at the jumper terminals by the brake fluid?

This one says its good for 125 amps and I can pick it up tomorrow in store: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200611634_200611634 Google isnt turning up much for testing the alternator with a load tester (it is all multimeter)...how do you do it?

With my battery pushing 3 years and the battery from Advance Auto being such a good deal I just went and got it. If the air suspension works properly again after install thats probably a good sign. I did the "turn everything on" alternator load test suggested in ekstroemtjs old thread. Idling with headlights, rear defrost and A/C on, Im at 13.6v. My multimeter broke so I dont have the greatest capabilities at the moment. The fact that the live data read 9.5v the first time I tested a startup would at least suggest the battery isnt great right? If the new battery doesnt make an immediate difference (suspension) Ill get a meter and do some better testing.

I dont know how accurate the DME live data feed voltage is, but I had 12v at rest, 9.5V when starting the car, and 13.6-13.9 running.

The PSM Workshop Failure followed by a stall out happened again. PSM popped about 3 miles from home. On the section of highway for my exit I noticed I was getting no throttle response...looked at the tach and the rpms were at 0, so I pulled off. Restarted and the idle was hunting from 300-1200, but I was pretty close to home and was able to kinda limp back. Pulled the following codes (the CEL was NOT on): P2138 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" / "E" Voltage Correlation P2126 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'E' circuit range/performance P2121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'D' circuit range/performance Transmission Fault - DME 1314 PSM fault - DME 1314 After I read the codes, I went for a short drive around the block and everything appeared normal. Should I start with the battery? As I said mine is going on 3 years old, and Advance Auto has 30% off so I can get one for $110 today. If it helps, I can read live data from the modules as well as the DME. Maybe of note: When warm weather hits, I get air suspension warnings. It goes all winter just fine, but once we hit 70* weather it pops. I replaced the compressor ring last month, because that certainly seemed to be piston seal related, but the warning persists (or maybe this is coincidentally something different). I noticed it pops whenever hit 80mph and it tries to lower. The code is 1400. I was going to look into the valves etc. today, but then this PSM deal happened again and am wondering if it is battery related...

Hope so...wife went 20 miles to work with no issues. Why would loose intake hoses cause the DME to transmission/PSM communication issues and give a key immobilizer error? Did the throttle go crazy adjusting to the scenario and the system just threw its hands in the air and gave up?

Once again, I'm an idiot. I need to not work on this when I'm stressed out about other things I think. I dont know if it's a cause these codes but I didn't put the clamps back on the rubber intake hoses :huh: Went for a short drive. Got up to 60, punched it off a rolling stop, no funny behavior.

Edited post with codes. If it helps, vehicle currently has 156k miles, we've owned it for about 2 years and 35k miles. I changed the plugs in the fall (~8k miles ago) and the battery was replaced by the PO about 2.5-3 years ago. He also had some corrosion in wires/splices repaired under the drivers seat because he couldnt get it out of park one day.

So, when it rains it pours I guess. 2004 CTT. Wife and I took the kids to school this morning. On the highway there would be what felt like a miss every few seconds. After a couple miles of this, the PSM Workshop Failure popped and the "miss" stopped. We got off at the exit for school and while waiting at the stop, wife remarked that the steering was really stiff, then a second later it shutoff. Put it in park and restarted. The PSM and check engine lights were on. Dropped off the kids and went home...didnt push it, but despite the warning lights everything seemed normal. Got home and scanned it: 7 DME faults - key immobilizer, O2 sensors, MAF, TB, DVE. Codes in attached pics. 1 Transmission Fault - DME 1314 1 PSM fault - DME 1314 From some research it sounds like the first thing I should check is the health of the battery/alternator, correct?

Dealer closed before I could get in over the weekend. No codes over that time with the taped T hose. Got the replacement in today (made sure it was in its proper place under the intake) and went for a short drive with no codes. Other than having to get a replacement for the plastic hose at some point, I think we are done here :D

Im almost too embarrassed to post this, but its a good PSA reminder... Took the kid to school this morning, and when I got to the garage and put it in P, I got the "excuse me sir, there's a hole in the engine" idle jump to about 1500 rpms. Pulled the intake and found the attached image (sorry for the ****ty pic...I was upset :cursing: ). Moral: Be careful when you put the intake back on or the water pump pulley will have a party with your PCV. Thankfully, the MPLS dealer actually has that rubber T in stock. In order to get there though, I had to remedy the T. Taped it up (Im becoming a huge fan of 3M super33+) and went for a short drive with live data going on the scanner. All was well. STFTs bouncing +/- in single digits with LTFTs at 0. Got to the garage, put it in P and watched the readings for a couple min. Got the same readings with LTFTs staying at 0. Hoping to be at the end of this!

I think it is way past time to stop trying to repair the hose and just replace it. When they get that bad, they are past their sell by date. Yeah, youre right :cheers: That is #14 in the diagram. If #15 is also bad, how much of a PITA is that to replace? I assume you remove the wheel well cover?

Ok yeah, thats pretty much what that blurb about revving to 2500 alluded to. Thanks!

It is an Autel MD802 all-system...it reads everything but doesnt have bi-directional. I dont have a durametric. Im not sure...where should the trims be? Edit: looks like they should be as close to 0 as possible? Is this a legitimate test? For a suspected vacuum leak, note the fuel trims at idle and increase engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold. If the STFT immediately decreases and moves to acceptable levels and the LTFT slowly starts to come back down, you have a vacuum leak.

P2189 came back. Attached pics of the freeze frame if that helps. I think I'm going to take that hose off again and tape the rest of it as it crackled anytime I moved it during removal.