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Gary Gaukler

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About Gary Gaukler

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
    1986 951
  1. Wayne, please see the attached picture (not mine, taken from the web). The yellow indicates the line that goes from AOS to a breather valve on top of the driver side valve cover. I'll check for vac leaks again with your method, thanks! After thinking more about the issue, it seems unlikely that it is the trans mounts or the DMF. I say this because the shudder / rough running does not happen right away, but only after maybe 1-2 minutes after startup, at warm idle. There doesn't seem to be a reason why the warming up of the engine should affect the DMF or the trans mounts. Thanks again!
  2. Update: I checked for vacuum leaks. Removing or releasing tension on the oil cap changes idle RPM significantly. I then tee'd a vacuum gauge into one of the intake manifold vac lines, and I get a solid 19 inHg of vacuum at idle. So, I think I can rule out vacuum leaks at this point. I also tried unplugging the MAF. The idle / shuddering did not get better. The appropriate code P0102 was set. Any thoughts on how to check the DMF or the transmission mounts? Is there a measurement that can be taken on the transmission mounts to see if they have sagged? Thanks again! Gary
  3. Wayne, I appreciate the swift and expert reply. It's driving me nuts that I can't diagnose this. My OBD2 reader is a BR-3 unit, it uses the proper ISO protocol. I doubt (but have no proof) that it's not finding all codes. Wouldn't also codes set a CEL? I'll try my best to check the vac lines. Funny that you should mention the DMF, I have been thinking that too. The PO claimed that the clutch had been replaced when engine was replaced, but I have no receipts for that. I'll check the trans mounts too. Thanks for the idea. Another thing that may or may not be related: I have some oil puddle on top of the driver side cylinder head-to-block valley area. The passenger side is perfectly dry. Could be a head gasket, but then again the power steering overflow line is just above that location, and also the breather line from the AOS. I know I have overfilled the power steering fluid in the past, and the AOS breather outlet looks very oily and gunky. Perhaps the AOS has failed badly and is pressuring oil out of the breather tube? Gary
  4. Howdy, I have a problem with my car that has me stumped. It's a 2001 986S, 105K on chassis, 35K on engine. At warm idle, the car feels very rough. It's been doing this for a couple of months, and it seems to be getting a little bit worse. I can feel the engine shaking through the seat back. Idle fluctuation at warm idle is from 740-790 rpm, measured through the OBD2. At cold idle it is approx. 800-810, noticeably steadier. I don't have the vibration problems at cold idle. No fault codes, no other driveability problems. No smoke. O2 sensors seem to be switching fine, judging by the voltages graphed by my OBD2 scanner. I removed the TB and intake manifold to clean it. TB was clean, intake tubes and manifold had small oil puddles. I removed the y-pipe between the intake tube and the AOS, and plugged the intake tube opening. The idle did not improve, but there was a lot of smoke coming out of the AOS opening. Is that normal? I assumed that at idle blowby would be minimal? Does anybody have an idea what's going on here, or what else I could check? I also just replaced the motor mount, so it's definitely an engine problem... Thanks!! Gary
  5. To answer my own question, and for future reference, one cannot buy the rubber insert separately. It only comes with the complete bracket it sits in. The part number for that is 986.580.132.01 (right hand side). Thanks! Gary
  6. 2001 986S. I am looking for the roll bar rubber inserts (the small rubber bumpers that the convertible top rests on when fully down). I am attaching some pictures of (1) the item, (2,3) the place where it's supposed to go. I couldn't find the item in the Porsche parts diagrams. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance! Gary
  7. I have that same exhaust, and I recommend it. There is no resonance, nor droning - and I am very picky about that. With the top up and the windows closed, there is very little difference in sound level inside the cabin, which is nice for long drives. With the top down, it is a nice sound inside the car, and quite impressive from outside the car. My girlfriend (who is not into cars and drives an SUV, argh) commented "Did you change something on the car? It sounds nice". Gary
  8. My reply was mainly directed at 986Jim's post, which suggested that up to 160mph the spoiler's contribution to downforce is negligible. I strongly disagree with his conjecture. Is there a noticeable difference in downforce between the factory spoiler and the aftermarket ones at speeds below 90mph? Probably not, but that is just a guess. Without expensive test equipment nobody will be able to tell you exactly. Seat-of-the-pants experiences will only be approximative. Given that exact information is not available, and the potential safety issues, I personally don't think it's a very good idea to second-guess the factory. But again, that is just MHO.
  9. Porsche considers the pop-up spoiler essential to the car's stability at higher speeds. Note that Porsche put a warning light in the dashboard that illuminates when there is a problem raising the spoiler. That indicates the importance they place on the spoiler. I wouldn't mess with this. Why would you sacrifice functionality and safety for looks? Gary
  10. Sounds good... What about resonance? Is there any rpm range during which you can hear the exhaust resonate? How much increase in noise is there with the top up at highway speeds? Thanks, Gary
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