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able2ski

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Everything posted by able2ski

  1. During an unfortaute meeting with a deer, my car was severly damaged and ended up in a mudhole. After thoroughly photographing the car, I began to clean it up to assess the damage for the insurance company and body shop. In my use of the pressure washer (which was truly needed to clear out all the brush & mud wedged in all the nooks & cranies), I accidently damaged some of the clearcoating on the black brake calipers. While the insurance company has agreed to refurbish the wheels, i do not yet know for sure whether the calipers will be taken care of. If not, can this be done? An
  2. Furthermore, my 2004 F350 crewcab (4 door) truck has the same speed activated doorlock feature. Didn't need the dealer to activate that, but then again it is non-defeatable. Anyways, in the truck, a single handle pull unlocks and opens the door in one uninterupted motion. What peeves me is when i get out, and try to open the rear door to get my jacket or whatever from the backseat, and that rear door is still locked. In the truck, I wish the one door handle open undid all 4 door locks; instead i have to remember to hit the unlock button after exiting and before closing the driver door.
  3. This feature (in any new format) does require dealer activation. I wanted it too, initially, but after getting used to just pressing the lock button for lenghty drives, it became apparent that either pressing it again to unlock, or forgetting the unlock button and having to pull twice on the doorhandle, makes it less desirable. For all those times I merely pull the car out of the garage or need to shuffle cars around in the driveway, (anything not worth locking the door for) it makes getting out such a bigger hassle. For me, the feature would only be worthwhile if it would automatically un
  4. I have a tire purchase due in my near future. I currently have 225/40/18 fronts & 265/35 /18 rears. Both carry N-1 ratings. It seems Bridgestone So2's get good reviews and carry the all important N-1 rating. The newer line of So-3s get mixed wear reviews and as of yet have of yet not been tested / approved by porsche for an "N" rating. Mailorder companies like tire-rack are hit-and-miss about a offering complete set of matching Porsche N-rated tires. Do I risk installing a full set of SO-3s (not yet N-rated approved)to get all matching sizes? Do I perhaps consider stepping up from
  5. So what you are asying is that early 1999 & very early 2000 models may have had these plates; however it does not mean that mine as a later 2000 build or subsequent models may have these plates. Thanks for clearing that up. The attached photo mirrors the setup i currently have........ok I have more faith in my dealer service now.
  6. I have a 2000 C2 cabriolet. Among some other dealer services, I asked them to examine if I was missing any rearmost plastic underbody peices. They informed me for my model year, all appropriate componenets are in place. I have little reason to distrust their findings, but a few things trouble me: When I look under the car it appears there are screw holes evident for further body panels that would attach and extend further rearward. As it is, the gearbox is entirely exposed (making fluid changes a breeze, but I recall a panel removal outlined described in the DIY FAQ posted here). The exist
  7. OK, I picked up my car car today and drove it straight home. I immediately noticed the clutch was far better that it had ever been..............even dating back to delivery in late December. The clutch begins to engage at 1/4 petal of actuation, not relying on a full 1/2 pedal of actuation like I thought was such a massive improvement just after performing my initial flush & bleed service I performed (repeatedly) on my own using the Moitve bleeder, fresh fluid and even old fashioned "pedal-pushing". This is far better. To date, all "sponginess" is now history. Just to confirm my findin
  8. MY 2000 C2 cabriolet..........sorry for not specifying. I'll certainly keep an eye on this I get the car back. If a further problem exists, I won't make the mistake of jeopardizing my eligibility to make a warranty claim by servicing this component again. I'm sure this repair will be well documented and throw an immediate red flag if it fails again. If it means I have to surrender my 11mm wrench and Motive bleeder, I'll never find myself in this position again. Thanks for suggesting some other aspects to be on the lookout for.
  9. If you are mechanically competent, there is no reason you can't perform the service yourself. The DIY section on this site is very informative......almost idiot-proof! If you have doubts that remain after reading that section, many here are very willing to lend a hand. The 15K service is an easy one; if I'm not mistaken its merely air / pollen filters, oil & filter, plus inspection all around. Regardless of what was alledgedly done prior to your delivery, wouldn't you feel better knowing with certainty your maintenance is totally current and done using approved components? Additionally,
  10. You care to share any of that info? While my own troubleshooting would lead me to agree with the technicians diagnosis that the bleeder seat is damaged, it would be interesting to know if the TSB pertains to the slave cylinder componet or elsewhere in the system. While I believe the dealership will now be resolve my problem, a TSB that affects the slave cylinder might help him cover it under warranty and lessen the possibility of hard feelings towards me for making such a big deal over my situation.
  11. As a business owner myself, I'm able to consider their perspective as well. I'm sure there have been plenty of examples before me when a DIYer butchered something only to expect it to be fixed under warranty. This is surely something they face and may or may not get reimbursed from Porsche for covering under warranty. The key differences are I suspected there may be a problem dating back to delivery. Perhaps I should have taken the car in then, but what might I have gotten.....a big bill for routine fluid change and purging of air in the line? Fluid changes and adjustments are not coverered
  12. Absolutely do it all. You have to remove the driver side rear tire (well, all 4 actually) anyways to access its caliper; this only eases access to the clutch bleeder. Theres no point in opening a liter can of fluid and not use it all........its considered a bad practice to keep leftover fluid around indefinately, and if you do the job right, a liter can will purge all old fluid from both systems. Do it all, use it all. Unfortunately, based on my current experience, should either system have a possible pre-existing defect, doing this job yourself (and admitting to such) may cause you troub
  13. Needless to say, I was so upset, I didn't get much sleep last night. First thing this morning, just as I was about to drive over and speak to them in person, the local service manager called to explain he had taken the matter up with his regional rep. and had also recieved confirmation of the previous bleeding service from the purchasing dealer (which verified I'm not the only person to ever service this component), yet all parties still felt the claim should be denied. I continued to express my disatisfaction, and he countered by stating that if not me, then the selling dealership should be
  14. At this point, I'll light a fire under their butts: Purchasing dealer: Hendrick Porsche, Charlotte, NC Servicing dealer: Performance Porsche, Chapel Hill, NC As stated before, both dealerships are in the same "family" owned by Rick Hendrick of NASCAR fame. Hendrick has multiple franchises throughout the state; there probably isnt a make of car he doesnt peddle somewhere. While Hendrick Porsche is a "stand alone" dealership site, Performance's lot offers: Chevrolet, Subaru, Porsche, BMW and Acura. I think they also sell Saturn, but don't hold me to that. I was just thinking about on
  15. I previously posted about my difficulties with my clutch bleeder leaking. To rehash the whole deal, I bought the car in December (as a certified preowned with factory extended warranty) and began catching up on various 30K maintenace items (filters, oil, plugs)........and flushing the brakes & clutch. I haven't owned a manual tranny in 12 years, but I felt and several others I let drive my new toy commented the pedal felt odd in the first part of its travel. Rather than making this a dealer problem, I simply went ahead with the brake & clutch bleeding I wanted to perform anyways.
  16. What I feel has happened is the car was "pushed" through the certification by merely signing the paperwork. I don't think any technician looked into much if anything. I surely didn't remove these missing items, nor have I owned the vehicle long enough for them to just "fall off" on their own. Additionally, the car is still in its original 4yr/50K warranty.......original factory or entended factory warranty, I feel this should be taken care of. As an update: they have agreed to order the parts & work on the tops, they discovered the mirror tilt had been disabled and corrected this. Howe
  17. When recently I bought my 2000 C2 Cabriolet, it had a few months factory warranty left (still 1 month left)........I opted to spend the extra money to have the dealer (authorized dealership) inspect the car and "certify" it for the 2 year extended factory coverage. As it was explained, they go through the car, confirm no major problems and fix whatever smaller stuff may be required to bring it up to par. To me, that was money well spent for peice of mind......reading about RMS failures alone made it a no-brainer investment. Among other issues Ive experienced in 2 months of ownership (persist
  18. I got my hands on another can of super blue and decided to give it one more try. I removed the bleeder, cleaned & checked its condition, q-tipped the recess it sits in & pushed a 1/4 can of fluid through the open hole, all in an effort to dislodge and flush anything that might be interfering with the bleeder seal. Once reassembled, I bled it even more with another 1/4 can. It still leaked...........I did it all over again............it still leaked. All told, another liter of Super blue through the car and straight to the collection jug. Although I've been totally confident in my
  19. I wish it were that simple........ Actually theres a fair amount of room to work with and i really feel I've gone as tight as I dare. The last thing I want is to strip somrthing. That something would more likely be the aluminum housing, not the steel nipple. I think theres a bad o ring or peice of trash in there. I still have warranty coverage and a laundry list of other items to be looked into, so I'm going to let the dealership take it from here (provided they don't give me a bunch of hassle about it). At least I can save them the time to troubleshoot the clutch failure.
  20. I re-bled the clutch using the pedal method and my wife as a helper to ensure the pedal stayed firmly to the floor. I could see some air released with the first bleed; the next two bleeds were all fluid. We went out to lunch later and I thought I felt it hang up ever so slightly one time. I was suspicious whether I was that worried about it (and imagined the problem) or it really happened. Upon returning home, I discovered fluid running down the gearbox and the nipple had spit off the rubber bleeder cap. Bad news....... To troubleshoot it further, I cleaned up all traces of leaked fluid
  21. While working on our vehicles at home today, I realized I mispoke regarding my '04 Ford F350. It has the oil filter at the very top of the engine, an oil drain gets everything. My previous truck, an '01 F350 with the older 7.3 liter deisel had the bottom filter arrangement which held a whopping 2 quarts. Anyways, I'm still curious what practices others follow.
  22. I know a BMW owner (not to pick on BMWs) who built the same thing. First, he mocked me for ordering a Motive bleeder, but I suspect it was mostly because he is too cheap to spend 40 bucks on a simple tool. Later he confessed how he ran the resevior dry during one of his bleeds and had to do the job all over again. At least with the Motive, you don't have to continually monitor the cars reservior. Also, the more times you have to open & close that cap or pour fluid, the greater the likelihood of an accidential splash on the paint. I can't see how anybody would use another method, and
  23. No I did it all myself; helpers generally prove to be more of a distraction than a help. But as I mentioned before the petal was firmly held down by a 2x4 while I opened & closed the valve. Furthermore, I rigged up a nifty collection device for collecting my old fluid. I took an empty 2 liter soda bottle, drilled a hole in the cap, fit a tight rubber grommet and then ran my vinyl tubing into that. When conecting my collection bottle to each nipple, I'd squeeze the bottle to get air out before connecting and create a minor vacuum to reduce the likelihood of air from being drawn back into
  24. Yes, I was pumping the petal by hand several times then I wegded a cut length of 2x4 between the bottomed out pedal and drivers seat to hold it down while opening the valve to bleed. Then close the valve, pull up gently on the petal, repeat...... Tomorrow I'll give it another shot with what fluid I can spare before hitting the "min" mark on the resevior. I dont have another can of Super Blue around, nor do I know a non-mailorder source to get some immediately. I hate to introduce something substandard from the local automart to only have to flush it back out later. But, I'll inquire again:
  25. My 04 F350 deisel work truck (the one that pays for my 2000 Cab.) suggests a regular oil change service interval of 5K miles. I pull some significant weight, so I do oil changes much more frequently. My practice has been to change the oil (Rotella) every 2500 miles, but only change the filter every other time. The monster Ford filters arent cheap (nor is 15-17 quarts of Rotella!), but since I'm still doing better than a straight oil / filter change every 5K, I have always felt good about my maintenance practices. But I wonder........Ford or Porsche........if one were inclined to do better on
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