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Everything posted by AWDGuy

  1. Not sure what it was. Either pump lost prime and packing it with the assembly lube did it or it was the releif valve (that I checked twice)
  2. My old man came by and helped me out. We took apart the oil pump and the releif valve for the 3rd time...packed it with engine assembly grease, gave two quick start & shut off, and on the 3rd shot we got over 5 bar on the mechanical guage! ? deposit returned, lol My guess is something to do with that releif valve. Just glad it finally has oil pressure. Thanks for the suggestions JFP
  3. Good idea but someone just put a deposit on it...I give up. Thanks for trying
  4. Ok, still skeptical on how this would cause 0 oil pressure but I'm pretty desperate at this point and willing to try anything. The guage doesnt even budge. That has to be one massive leak then.
  5. And just reading further....the actuators and solenoids wouldnt cause 0 oil pressure. Those are fed with oil and dont dictate oil pressure. If I'm wrong in that thinking....please let me know. I'm frustrated and pulling out parts for nothing just aggravated that....
  6. Scavenger pumps are even more simple than the oil pump. I dont think that would be my cause of 0 oil pressure. All these things do is return the oil to the sump.
  7. I didnt remove the one that sits at the end of the heads. Just removed the gasket and pulled the valve cover. The 'middle' one was pulled, it has a spring at the end that was re installed correctly. Theres also a small "C" indent so you dont install them incorrectly. But now I am second guessing myself. I'll pull them and check since the exhaust is off.
  8. It's still strange. Engine ran great before being pulled for the timing chain repair If it's a plug, I have very, very bad luck. And everything I've read in the last 45 min about freeze plugs shows intermix issues. Sludge like crazy....
  9. aren't those for the cooling system, if they were missing, wouldnt I be losing coolant?
  10. Ok, thanks again. I'll try a few more things but I'm not disassembling the motor again, I'll sell it at a major loss before I go through that again. this car absolutely hates me. that's quite obvious.
  11. The car starts with no issues, idle seems with fine with no unusual noises, but I shut it off rather quickly when I get the warning on the dash.
  12. ok, thanks. The hex shaft is an LNE unit. Everything in the pump is clean. No scoring anywhere. With the cover off the oil pump, and turning the engine manually, the gears move with ease.
  13. The oil pump is new from 2016 rebuild. The piston is beveled ontop so I beleive i have the newest part
  14. What happens if I try running the motor with just the plug in? Remove the piston and spring & see if get pressure??
  15. Forgot to list that as something I already checked. 1st thing I did actually before pulling the motor. Pulled the releif valve out and everything slid out nice. Look at the piston and cylinder...no scoring whatsoever and that piston slides up and down the cylinder very well.
  16. I am stumped and hoping someone can help me. In June, I attended a track day and I changed my oil after the track event (like I do each track event) and I found a small piece of metal on my LNE magnetic plug. I stopped driving the car immediately as I have never had metal on the motor since I rebuilt it in 2016. Since 2016 the car has had several track days, and ran flawlessly. Oil pressure was always great, even right up until I pulled the motor out to repair the timing chains. I removed the scavenger pump on Bank 2 as I could see oil sweating from it. I took it apart and saw a perfect indentation of a eclip in the gear. My wife turned the motor manually for me until i could see the master link and sure enough, it was missing an eclip. Jake got me hooked up with IWIS, and they sent me the new master clip design with one c-clip sliding over both master link posts instead of 2 e-clips going over a master link post each. That repair was done by doing the following: 1 - Drain oil & remove sump to check for debris (there was nothing in the sump other than a couple strings of the black gasket stuff) 2 remove engine and trans as 1 piece 3 - separated trans, mufflers and engine mount bracket from long block 4 - Lock down/timed camshafts on bank 2, removed valve cover, used special tools to lock down cams that allowed us to rotate the engine until we could get to the master link 5 - Slide new master link in and insert c-clip 6 - Recheck timing by locking down camshafts 7 - re-install valve cover 8- Repeated on Bank 1 (bank 1 still has all the eclips but I obviously no longer trusted the design and replaced it anyways.) 9- re-install sump plate Sump plate was off for about a month while the engine was on the stand. I really don't think something crawled up the engine stand and made a home in my engine but I guess anything is possible. Never touched the pump, the block, or even the heads other than turning the motor manually and repairing the missing e clip. I re-installed the motor, added fluids and did3 or 4 quick starts and shut off then ran it for a good 15 seconds until the low oil pressure light came on. Shut it off immediately after I saw that warning. No oil pressure on my car gauge. Figured it was the sensor, so hooked up mechanical gauge. Same thing, doesn't even budge. pinned at 0. So...steps Ive taken to trouble shoot my no oil pressure: 1- Removed sump plate again to see if pick up is blocked - looks clean as a whisttle 2 -Tried a new oil filter as I read a collapsed oil filter can cause issues with oil pressure (i have the LNE spin on) 3-last night, I removed all the exhaust off supported the engine and removed the oil pump cover hoping to see a shared hex drive, nope. Everything works great inside the pump. with the cover off and the gears still in, you can turn the engine manually and see everything move as it should. Yes, there is oil in the engine :) Why does my motor have 0 oil pressure?!?!!?!?
  17. Need some help. Trying to find the part # for the washer that goes behind the cclip on the LNE IMS tensioner paddle. Heres a picture form another build thread: Also need the part#'s for the bolts to attach the plastic guide...left plastic in this pic: Also note that pelican lists a timing chain part # 996-105-171-55-INT as fitting the 3.6 C4S. It doesn't. I need to get part # 996-105-171-58-M100 at 4 times the price. yay. Another delay...was hoping I could get drop the bearing case in last night and do cyl 1,2 ,3....but I'll have to wait.
  18. Charles at LNE offered me new rings they have for the 4.0 design. gapless rings. free of charge - how could I say no?! big surprise was to get a new IMSB and IMS back from them. I sent in my old ones for an inspection, and Charles said they would exchange the IMS and send them back when the new rings come in. everything is new!
  19. I used what tools I had, that is really the only reason. I think that groove is just engine assembly lube from when we turned the crank in the half case...I'll take a closer look. the bearings are from LNE, and yes, I believe they coat them. they are Porsche OE.
  20. And I got the bearings case and crankshaft done last night. New coated main bearings from LNE, new thrust washers, ARP hardware. Everything was cleaned and polished by a machine shop here in Ottawa. They also did the balancing. 2nd most expensive set of bolts Ive ever bought Main bearings pressed in. thrust washers installed, these have grooves in them and it is important they face out. One on each side: added engine assembly lube to the bearings and washers, and dropping the crankshaft in: Make sure those washers didn't budge as they just float in the groove measure the thrust Smooth as butter: ARP hardware in and installed as per their recommendations. Got the oil scraper on (no picture) with new gaskets and new bolts. FYI - The bolts were changed by porsche from the ones they used in 2002. Wrapped it all up in plastic and put it away, will hopefully pull it out next week to continue with the build.
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