Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Britdave, If you are interested in taking your settlement from the insurance company and selling the car as-is, I would be interested in buying it. This is what I do. The car does not have to be totaled. You can take the settlement and sell the car as-is. Everything has a value. Their is nothing wrong with a salvage or previously wrecked car that is repaired correctly and put back on the road. Hell, half the cars on the road now have had some kind of damage or another. I have been doing this for thirty years and pride myself on doing quality work. Even if you have a previously salvaged car it still has value and can be a cheaper opportunity to own something that may have previously been out of reach. I value my rebuilt cars at around the rough book value or about 30% off of full retail price as an average............Message me if you are interested. Kevin.
Does anyone out there in the cyber Porsche world have some kind direction to send me off in???
OK time for an update quiz........ I didn't have much grey hair to start with and less now for **** sure.... I have found all the grounds and cleaned them. I have changed the crank sensor with one from the other running cars. Still no start. I can remove and jump the fuel pump relay and the pump runs. I know its getting fuel to the rail due to finding a leak at the (what appears to be a return line on top of the rail)..... Ahsai.........The tach needle would jump one time and that would be it. Occasionally when I turn the key on the fuel pump will run for about two seconds and stop. That will only happen very rarely. This is why I'm chasing a wiring problem. But, as I said it can be jumped with the relay removed and run continuously. I have spent a lot of time checking, tracing and troubleshooting. I have performed all the relay testing in the Bentley manual and the only piece of the puzzle that is not complete is section 24-10 checking for continuity to ground at terminal 85!!! This is checked with ignition on, I have no ground. I have ground with the key off....... Manual says signal from ECM is missing????? Check wire between control module and relay............See wiring diagram. Wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual are confusing to me. Manual shows an engine speed sensor, but no crankshaft sensor? Same or different? Wire colors do not match! Well, I really suck at tracing wiring diagrams. Plus, I'm partially color blind so that makes it even worse. I checked the plug going to the crank sensor with the key on and I had one wire with 12 volts, one with 5 volts and one with ground. I don't know if this is correct or not, I'm trying to rule out a broken wire in its casing or something that was done wrong at installation. A HUGE question is............Can anyone tell me what wire to check at the control module???? I don't understand why this wire at terminal 85 on the DME relay has ground with the power off but not with the power on.... Everything else checks out, relay energizes, etc. etc. This is a Cabriolet so everything is really close together. I could check continuity from DME to relay ground if I knew which wire at DME to check.... Also, an unrelated problem that I can't seem to resolve. The clutch pedal will stay on the floor. I bled the system and can push fluid through by pumping the pedal. No air seems to be in the system. Is it because someone pushed the pedal in with the engine out of the car? How do I get the pedal back???
The answer to that question begins by obtaining a wring diagram for the car and start tracing it until you find where the voltage stops. Ok............ Time for an update and some questions.... AGAIN. Using the Bentley manual for testing purposes. At 20-5 manual shows how to jump terminals 30 to 87. Performed this and fuel pump is running strong! That is the best way by far to test your fuel pump! Performed relay tests and all checked ok.............Until 24-10 checking for ground at terminal 85!!!! I started looking at all the ground locations. Un bolted the engine to chassis ground, cleaned and replaced. Moved to section 97-16. DME ground is running on ground point 9 or GP9. Manual says location is right front engine compartment. Looking from top or looking from bottom I cannot see a ground. I think I may have found GP10, which looking from under the car up on the right side it is just above the coolant sensor/housing. If anyone out there could lead me to GP9 I would greatly appreciate it as I think this may be the problem. While laying UNDER the car I did notice that about three wires of one of the O2 had been sheared off, at installation I presume. I haven't looked them up, but does anyone know right away if all four are the same? Or, are their upstream and downstream? I don't think this would cause a no start problem, just an idle/check engine issue. It's nice to have two parts cars to pluck stuff off of when needed......And, if anyone needs any 996 parts just let me know. One is a 2001 C4 coupe tiptronic and the other is a 1999 Carrera coupe six speed. Thanks in advance.....
I could replace the pump....If the pump is not working I'm not going to have pressure at the rail or anywhere else.......But, at this point why do I not have a 12 volt signal going to the harness at the pump? I may need a pump for sure as I have supplied 12 volts to the pump with and without the connector connected. I am stumped at the point of not having a 12 volt signal at the pump!!!
Ok. So, I put 12 volts to the fuel pump directly. No noise of any kind. Removed and cleaned oil and metal debris from the crankshaft sensor. Can't find anything on how to test it. Bentley manual is wrong! Says remove right rear wheel to access sensor. Sensor is on left rear of motor. Changed out DME relay with starter motor relay, No change. Engine still turns over but won't start. I could change the fuel pump just for sh$ts and giggles, but I never have been just a parts changer! I don't know what to try next............So, I guess it's load it up and visit the P-dealer. It will probably be about $125 just for a scan to see if their are faults .....
Sorry MPSIII..........Didn't mean to hijack your thread! Did you get your car started?
I didn't mention e-gas since I have not heard this term. Would that be ethanol? Or, E85 gas???
No, the car is a 2000 996 Cabriolet, not a C4. And, I used the donor motor from a 1999 996 Coupe, also not a C4. Yes the starter spins and the motor turns over, just not starting. I have checked for 12V at the pump connector and had none. I have not tried putting 12V to the fuel pump yet. One other thing I forgot to mention is the shop did not put any coolant in the car. Would that have any affect on it not starting? Some sensor no sending a signal that the coolant was low????
Thanks for the input. Now just have to make time for more diagnostics. Ahsai- Yes the donor motor was a cable throttle body. Intake, throttle body and wiring harness were change from the original car. I hired out the swap since I don't have a lift. The shop said the engine would run on starting fluid. They suggested it needed a fuel pump. Since I have my own rollback, I told them I would take over from there. I have checked all the fuses and changed the fuel pump relay with no luck. Have to make time to check that everything is plugged in or didn't get damaged in change. Haven't noticed tach needle bounce. Its a convertible so I have to figure out how to get to the DME relay. I do have the Bentley book and skimmed that section....... What is the opinion here of the "knock off" version of the PIWIS???
First, thanks for the reply. I don't think MM butchered anything up, it was all unplugged. I did buy a 99 model car/motor and changed out the intake and throttle body due to being cable versus electronic. Also used the wiring harness that came with the car. During my hours of searching I discovered two possibilities that I have not investigated. The DME relay in the back of the car, and I think I read something about the crank sensor being bad will not let the fuel pump come on. It could be unplugged, damaged in the change out, etc............ Is PST II the newest version of Porsche diagnostics??? Took the place of PIWIS? I have an OTC Genysis with european software, but I haven't tried it to see if it will read something like that. Would that DURAMETRIC? reader tell that? I need to buy something since I have several cars I'm working on.... Thanks.
Related to this topic I am searching for some answers to a non starting car also..... It is a 2000 996 Cab. I bought the car with the motor out after it had returned from Motor Meister.... I bought a running salvage car and had the motor swapped in. The car won't start. I have checked all related fuses, check ok. Changed the fuel pump relay from the running car, no start still. Checking the fuel pump cannot get voltage to any terminal on the fuel pump plug with the key on. Should their be voltage at the plug without cranking the motor??? Trying to rule out the fuel pump before needlessly changing it out. Any help in direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Let me also know if I should start a new thread, not real proficient here.
The engine numbers on the M96/97 are independent of the VIN numbers. Is their a topic on here to use for decoding the engine numbers? Anyone know of a Porsche experienced machine shop or rebuilder in the southeast U.S.? You need to do a search, it has been discussed before. There is a table that breaks down the engine number sequences: http://www.porscheclubgb.org/clientftp/Register/996/faq_engine_transmission_codes.pdf Probably the best M96/97 engine shop in the world is in Georgia at Jake Raby's shop: http://www.flat6innovations.com/ Thanks. I have been reading on Raby's site for an hour now. Probably can't afford the rate. I would like to attend the engine rebuild school though, but can't afford to go to Costa Mesa for the initial training through Worldpac. I have pictures of two of my engine numbers. The torn down one back from M/M is a 66Y which would be correct for the 2000 car (not pictured). The Craigslist complete motor is a 66W which equals 1998 model. That would be a real early 996, right? I bought it as a 2000 model. Seller may or may not have known. I see no rear seal or IMS leaks. The motor is plenty oil filmy but not oily wet. I removed the cam plugs and rotated. Cams are turning and appear to be ok. Seller said the motor was making a "noise" in the 3-4k rpm range. Only thing I can find is a few small black plastic piece out of the sump pan and a few in the pickup screen. No metal debris. It appears to be incredibly clean. I am tempted to install a starter and hook a battery to it and perform a compression test in the floor???? Would their be any drawbacks of using a 66W engine?
The engine numbers on the M96/97 are independent of the VIN numbers. Is their a topic on here to use for decoding the engine numbers? Anyone know of a Porsche experienced machine shop or rebuilder in the southeast U.S.?
Todd probably has the right idea! 987_RDC.......I am kinda scared of the Motor Meister engine. Not sure it is the original to the car. It is torn completely down to the crank. I think the Craigslist motor may get a cleaning and remove the heads and check the chains and guides. What will I run into with the pairing? Do these blocks have any portion of the vin stamped anywhere? I found a boss with numbers stamped but they didn't match any of the cars. Thanks