Schnell Gelb

Thanks for the correction - I'm too timid .:-)

VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric.

Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it.

When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.

Maybe use spiral wire reinforced tube or similar ? But a replacement from the usuals would be easier- $30 . Be careful that when you are blundering around down there to replace it you don't disturb other things.Pelican have a diy on doing this and some 'while you are in there' hints

Suggest you read up on the effects of water ingress to those 2 units. A common problem in wet climates. There are remedies and preventative measures . Lots if you Search.

Is it possible the wiring harness has rodent damage ?

The CPS is a know trouble maker and a replacement is not expensive. Did the rev counter needle bounce when you cranked? 

If the car was damp in storage maybe the ignition switch contacts corroded? Another trouble maker that is inexpensive.

I know it is silly to throw parts at it but the diagnostics have filed to help you.

BTW was your car assembled by Valmet in Uusikaupunki ? 

Hint - don't go wild with the pressure because the coolant tank in the trunk can be a little fragile. If you pump up pressure to 13 psi, that should be plenty to find a leak. If the system will not hold that pressure and you can't find where the leak is .report back your results here and we'll try to help more. It is possible that someone put oil in the wrong 'hole' -easily dome by a novice.

If you haven't checked the Durametric site in a while ,I recommend it. The latest version for my 2001 Boxster S is  6.5.5.12. My previous update from 2017 was 6.5.4.8. Who knows what has changed/improved. It still seems the same to me but faster and more consistent.So thank you Durametric !

It is also possible to accidentally muddle adjacent connectors because the cable is long enough to connect to the wrong plug.

He also has a useful SAI diagnosis video. His video was made without referral to some of the Boxster/996 sites ,so he misses a few tricks but it is a better tutrial than any other I have seen.

Carbon on #1 piston - is it too late for a leakdown test ? Oval/taper is a theoretical cause?

I found M5 L.H. s/s thread rod on Ebay. You also need the matching deep nuts. Use washers and a little grease. It all requires patience and finesse. No, there is not enough material to drill out and re-thread to M6 or an Imperial equivalent. Be careful with the bike skewer alternative.It may overwork the few little threads in the part. It doesn't matter if you wear the threads on the M5 rod/nuts.It does matter if you wear the threads in the actuator ! Compress the part in a vise(gently!!) and then insert the rod.Try to avoid using the rod to do much compressing.Keeping the part compressed with the minimum length of thread is a challenge.Then figure out how/when you are going to remove the rod. Zip ties can break under strain .....So if you use them, use the very best quality oil-resistant ones you can find..

Suggest you inspect/test/upgrade the entire SAI system. It is prone to multiple failure points that are cheap and easy to deal with now but awful later. Jake sometimes suggested Knock sensors for the same reason.

I found it helpful to use M6 s/s studs +washer+nut to hold down the 'bridges'. I was paranoid about causing any avoidable wear on the aluminum threads with steel bolts. Yes. it is a chore to measure and source the correct size/length but imho ,worth it.

On 10/22/2017 at 4:04 PM, Stefano Buganza said:

Many years ago it happened to me because of a problem with an exhaust: when hot, it nearly closed, and car didnt start until cold. Hope this could help.

This is actually a Catalytic Converter fault usually - not muffler/exhaust pipe. The 'brick' melts &/or gets plugged with carbon.

A small improvement to such a tool(I have the one Ahsai suggests) is to replace the cone with a barbed fitting that will thread into the spark plug hole. Just don't overtighten  it or you'll have an extraction/removal problem.This makes solo testing possible.

Better is to attach it to an extension tube that threads into the spark plug hole at one end and has a standard Amflo compressed air fitting at the other end. Innovative Products 7881

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovative-Products-of-America-7881-Compression-Test-Extension/352142872859?epid=658659526&hash=item51fd59d11b:g:A6QAAOSwXCNZlKvv

Even better is a kit like this and adapt it. But be sure you get the extension tube, not just a hose.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Compression-Gauge-Tester-10mm-12mm-14mm-18mm-threads-with-extension-tube/352187634741?hash=item520004d435:g:uHUAAOSwTyZZeWon

Then you can also do Leakdown and compression tests solo also.

It may help others to give a more competent opinion than mine if you :

Look at the dwg in the FSM of the timing procedure. It is common(& O.K.) that the camshaft notch is not perfectly horizontal. Unfortunately , this is a bit vague.

So maybe to help the discussion ,re-time the cams so the notch is perfectly horizontal and note how many CRANKshaft degrees it is 'off' .

Assuming the notch on Bank 1 is slightly up(&outward) - just like the FSM dwg., I would continue and run the engine.Then asses with Durametric, re-asses after 100 miles and recheck the timing .

Thant is based on my experience and reports from others. I am sure it would be nice to have the pretensioners but they are very expensive.

Be prepared for maybe having to adjust the valve timing after about 1000 miles - using the 4 bolts on the EX cam behind the scavenge pump

10 hours ago, Morissey said:

Hi, I am back. Heads and cams reassembly is complete and ready to time the engine. I have the timing tool, but do I need the Porsche tensioning tools as well? I have read mixed conflicting views on the topic. The shop manual clearly requires them in the procedure.

1. Do I absolutely need these to get the timing right? Item B in image below

2. Is there a hack or trick to avoid this tool? I have read pumping the stock tensioners in oil would set the correct pressure...not sure about that

3. Does anyone have a set they care to rent? I have searched and realized they are not readily available for purchase or rent.

 

Any insight/help would be much appreciated.

 

E. is Essential ans 2x F.

 

A. is a 5/16" bolt. C. won't fit with the engine in situ. B. not essential in my experience

There is some confusion in related Threads about the significance of the foam loss in some climates. The suggestion is that the foam loss will NOT affect the a/c performance.I have no personal data for this. It is worth investigating because it is a tedious and time consuming job.

BTW the best replacement for the foam is 3M Flue Tape fire-proof/high temperature tape.It is frequently cited in the "foam coming out of my vents" Threads.

Clever hack version:

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/67109-small-foam-pieces-blowing-vents-2.html

If you are in a mild climate ,the coolant hoses to the AOS are redundant. Some just disconnect and plug them. Search for details and comments.

Tool for Spark Plug Tube extraction

Suggest you use the long bolt+ specific washer diy tool. Just google this subject and add "Health Service" he was a Forum member who wrote up some specs and posted photos.The Transom plug tool does not work if the seals are swollen/tight.

Do the click test and Ohm test on the solenoid before you hunt for a spring ?

No part available

Best to find someone with a 'dead' used part and use their spring ?

Did you loose the spring or is it defective?

A defective spring is extreeeemly unlikely as a cause of 1341

My experience is to be patient and persistent.Keep driving it.Try each of the Drive Cycle variations several times and keep checking your progress.

I set one of 3 remaining stubborn Ready Status "Fail" monitors by doing a cold start+ idle at 2900 r.p.m. while stationary for 90+seconds. That is the period when the SAI pump runs. I suspect(stress the uncertainty )  that it set because at almost 3k rpm there was much more air+fuel flow than if you just drive off gently. Who knows? It worked(on one Monitor) for me.

Loren mentioned something useful (if I understood correctly) - don't keep resetting the CEL .That just sets you back to the beginning in the entire process. Best to keep working on it sequentially - Set one monitor and them focus on to the next.

The problem with that logical but pathetically blithe recommendation is I still do not know which specific parts(or combo of parts) of which drive cycle sets which monitors.

Once you have done the correct 'things', it may take another 2-4 drives to clear the CEL.Don't cancel it with your Code Reader.

Iff you are using Durametric - check for updates,No they don't alert you of updates - you have to check yourself or read Renntech frequently !

I hope this helps get you through Smog with less frustration folks.

Yes, but who knew?

Just thought it may help Durametric get a free plug on Renntech if they announced such useful news here  first ?

Certainly useful for their customers. It is also reassuring that they are still supporting their product.

And for  those who are thinking : Wow,I'll buy a Durametric knock-off from Asia via Fleabay and then just download the latest version of the software from Durametric to replace the junkware that comes on the k-o version.Nope-won't work.

Hope this helps