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Excellent Thread that hopefully will help others who follow. The diagnosis by Ahsai is invaluable. Yes the Durametric tool is essential but it is the interpretation of the results that is beyond the ability of many of us. Thank you to both of you for taking the time to chronicle the issue.
Great that you passed inspection ! After 6 pages of back and forth with symptoms and failed fixes/resets --- for the benefit of future readers of your thread, what exactly do you think was the problem and why was it so difficult to fix ?
I had a similar issue. The short version is to use the correct(ask!) grade of oil and drive the car gently if the rattle is slight. I replaced all my lifters twice and finally gave up and just drove it ! It eventually became silent. I think the lifters had bled down and were just slow at pumping up again -maybe ?
VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric. Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it. When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.
Maybe use spiral wire reinforced tube or similar ? But a replacement from the usuals would be easier- $30 . Be careful that when you are blundering around down there to replace it you don't disturb other things.Pelican have a diy on doing this and some 'while you are in there' hints
Is it possible the wiring harness has rodent damage ? The CPS is a know trouble maker and a replacement is not expensive. Did the rev counter needle bounce when you cranked? If the car was damp in storage maybe the ignition switch contacts corroded? Another trouble maker that is inexpensive. I know it is silly to throw parts at it but the diagnostics have filed to help you. BTW was your car assembled by Valmet in Uusikaupunki ?
Hint - don't go wild with the pressure because the coolant tank in the trunk can be a little fragile. If you pump up pressure to 13 psi, that should be plenty to find a leak. If the system will not hold that pressure and you can't find where the leak is .report back your results here and we'll try to help more. It is possible that someone put oil in the wrong 'hole' -easily dome by a novice.
If you haven't checked the Durametric site in a while ,I recommend it. The latest version for my 2001 Boxster S is 22.214.171.124. My previous update from 2017 was 126.96.36.199. Who knows what has changed/improved. It still seems the same to me but faster and more consistent.So thank you Durametric !
It is also possible to accidentally muddle adjacent connectors because the cable is long enough to connect to the wrong plug.
He also has a useful SAI diagnosis video. His video was made without referral to some of the Boxster/996 sites ,so he misses a few tricks but it is a better tutrial than any other I have seen.
Carbon on #1 piston - is it too late for a leakdown test ? Oval/taper is a theoretical cause?
I found M5 L.H. s/s thread rod on Ebay. You also need the matching deep nuts. Use washers and a little grease. It all requires patience and finesse. No, there is not enough material to drill out and re-thread to M6 or an Imperial equivalent. Be careful with the bike skewer alternative.It may overwork the few little threads in the part. It doesn't matter if you wear the threads on the M5 rod/nuts.It does matter if you wear the threads in the actuator ! Compress the part in a vise(gently!!) and then insert the rod.Try to avoid using the rod to do much compressing.Keeping the part compressed with the minimum length of thread is a challenge.Then figure out how/when you are going to remove the rod. Zip ties can break under strain .....So if you use them, use the very best quality oil-resistant ones you can find..