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Schnell Gelb

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About Schnell Gelb

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    Los Angeles
  • Porsche Club
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  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
    Jag XKE
    Miata SE
    Dodge Cummins turbo-diesel
  • Future cars
    Electric !!!!!!!
  • Former cars
    Lancia Flavia<br />
    Lancia Fulvia<br />
    Jaguar XJR

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  1. If you are replacing the RMS for the first time(like me) and don't have ideal tools, I suggest buying 2 PTFE seals - they are inexpensive. The reason for this 'extravagance' is that without ideal tools it is easy to get the seal out of square in the bore. You'll find that when you try to correct the problem by tapping on the high side you'll over-drive the seal so it will be too deep. If you have a second seal you'll learn from your experience, remove the first attempt and triumph with the second seal. If you only have one seal you'll be delayed waiting for a replacement or worse, tempted to ignore the cocked seal. Using the correct(diy) tool and tightening the bolts in small increments methodically works well.
  2. If you have an SAI Not Ready issue search for my recent post with help from JFP and Loren.
  3. Suddenly the SAI system is READY ! As an irrational attempted fix, I bought 4 new Bosch O2 sensors. To develop a base line to compare before /after new O2 sensors I ran Durametric to plot the pre cat voltage for both banks. I plotted the voltages and then out of habit checked Ready Status and was incredulous that all Monitors showed "Pass" . Obviously a glitch in Durametric? So I tried Foxwell NT520 Pro. It also showed all Monitors Complete. Without turning off the engine I zipped off and got a Smog Test - at last- after 2 years of futile flailing. So what caused the SAI monitor to get "Ready" after so many miles/starts/short drives/long drives etc. ? I don't know ,dang ! I am embarrassed to say this because I am fairly competent technically and I did a lot of (futile)testing over 2 years. I even tried an 'outlaw' emulator. Yes, I removed it .Ineffective. The only thing I did differently recently is to let it idle at around 850 rpm for 10 minutes after a cold start. On another occasion I tried 2 minutes at 2500 rpm. I wish I could tell the few lonely souls who get this problem what the specific fix is . Sorry, I can't but it may be drive cycle related and specifically the idle component. Good luck with that and please share your experiences here on Renntech so others who follow may avoid driving without tags while desperately trying to complete the drive cycle uninterupted. There has got to be a better way than what I did ! Thanks to JFP and Loren for their help. I have 4 new,never fitted oxygen sensors,,,,,,,
  4. JFP and Loren, Thanks for your insights. Neither of my O2 sensor readings before the cats go immediately to the flat line value shown in the second("After Repair") graph. I get about 0.040Volts or less but it does fluctuate below that value. You have to be really fast at clicking through the screens on Durametric to get to both pre-cat O2 sensor voltage graphs to see the critical activity during the 90 seconds or less that the SAI Pump runs from cold. I'm going to try another set of new Bosch O2 sensors to see if that makes a significant /effective difference. Many thanks for the help. Yes, 2400 (illegal) miles while desperately trying to get legal is an awful benchmark.
  5. For the 2001 cars there is a very difficult,obscure Secondary Air Injection ( or S.A.I.) "Not Ready" problem. This is also called "Inc" or "Incomplete". JFP has mentioned this in the past and we've had a few sagas here trying to resolve the issue but none as extreme as this one. The car shows no MIL/ Check Engine nor any Pending Codes. You won't fail a Smog Test even in California with this problem - your car will be "Declined". Which is nonsense because you won't get a Pass smog test certificate and you'll be unable to get tags for your car. But do pay the invoice !! You will be told by the smog tech to' just drive the car'. I have been ' just driving' mine for 2400 miles and 20 months. The SAI according to Durametric and Foxwell NT520Pro is still Not Ready or Incomplete. No codes, no pending codes. The S.A.I. system works perfectly by any diagnosis- O2 sensor voltage ahead of Cats at start up(thanks Ahsai). air flow of SAI pump,exhaust posts in head are clean,all SAI hoses and connectors are new/upgraded.Check valve receives strong vacuum while SAI pump operates. All 4 O2 sensors are new but I am open to replacing them all. Which are the fastest responding brands? NTk, Bosch ,Denso ? Using an emulator(for diagnostic purposes only) in the O2 sensor circuit makes no difference. The Referee refuses to test the car insisting it goes to the Porsche dealer for repair. That is a blank check because the Dealer speculates it might need a new ECU ,a new SAI system etc. Really the dealer doesn't want to attempt obscure repairs on an old car. The old techs who understood this problem have retired. The reflash with ROW option is eliminated because the new (DAD) smog machine will detect the abnormal code and your car will fail for 'equipment tampering" One option is to get a reflash to stock ,hoping that there may have been some bug fixes in the latest reflash . Is this reasonable ? The ECU is a 2001 original and unmolested. Another option is to get an Indie with PIWIS to 'force' a Ready status even temporarily and then Smog test immediately. Any recommendations in S.California ? I have done the Drive Cycle many times. What is unclear is how to prompt the SAI to operate during light load/cruise/2900 rpm - if that is even relevant ? I can do that because I have a plugged aux vacuum line via a Tee to the Check valve and a bypass switch to manually operate the SAI pump. This thread may be a good spot to document an effective solution to this problem. It affects very,very few 996 and 986 M96 engines so the usual Internet resources are unhelpful. Any ideas/solutions ? Thanks for any ideas.
  6. Bob, Suggest you ask within the Porsche community for a referral to local Pcar Indies in Tennessee . The repair work is often the easier part of the task.The diagnosis based on years of experience with these cars is the valuable component - as you almost discovered with the throttle body nonsense. Someone may be able to confirm if a generic or VW/Audi relay is a good substitute,if indeed the relay is defective. Good Luck and let us know the outcome?
  7. When you refilled the reservoir, did you use all the correct equipment and procedure? Probably not. Let's see if the problem recurs.Suggest you carry spare coolant in the trunk and a funnel - it is awkward to refill. Meanwhile suggest you "Search" for the vacuum pump equipment(Airlift or similar) needed for refilling or at least the jack it up at the back method. And learn about 'burping'. Otherwise it may keep on dumping coolant until you refill it correctly YEMV. There are some good YouTube videos on this subject.
  8. Excellent Thread that hopefully will help others who follow. The diagnosis by Ahsai is invaluable. Yes the Durametric tool is essential but it is the interpretation of the results that is beyond the ability of many of us. Thank you to both of you for taking the time to chronicle the issue.
  9. Great that you passed inspection ! After 6 pages of back and forth with symptoms and failed fixes/resets --- for the benefit of future readers of your thread, what exactly do you think was the problem and why was it so difficult to fix ?
  10. I had a similar issue. The short version is to use the correct(ask!) grade of oil and drive the car gently if the rattle is slight. I replaced all my lifters twice and finally gave up and just drove it ! It eventually became silent. I think the lifters had bled down and were just slow at pumping up again -maybe ?
  11. gnmor - when refilling there is a special procedure .If you don't follow it you may get air-locks and that is not good. Check the Pelican diy for more.
  12. VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric. Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it. When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.
  13. Maybe use spiral wire reinforced tube or similar ? But a replacement from the usuals would be easier- $30 . Be careful that when you are blundering around down there to replace it you don't disturb other things.Pelican have a diy on doing this and some 'while you are in there' hints
  14. Suggest you read up on the effects of water ingress to those 2 units. A common problem in wet climates. There are remedies and preventative measures . Lots if you Search.
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