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Schnell Gelb

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About Schnell Gelb

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    Los Angeles
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
    Jag XKE
    Miata SE
    Dodge Cummins turbo-diesel
  • Future cars
    Electric !!!!!!!
  • Former cars
    Lancia Flavia<br />
    Lancia Fulvia<br />
    Jaguar XJR

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  1. If you are replacing the RMS for the first time(like me) and don't have ideal tools, I suggest buying 2 PTFE seals - they are inexpensive. The reason for this 'extravagance' is that without ideal tools it is easy to get the seal out of square in the bore. You'll find that when you try to correct the problem by tapping on the high side you'll over-drive the seal so it will be too deep. If you have a second seal you'll learn from your experience, remove the first attempt and triumph with the second seal. If you only have one seal you'll be delayed waiting for a replacement or worse, tempted
  2. If you have an SAI Not Ready issue search for my recent post with help from JFP and Loren.
  3. Suddenly the SAI system is READY ! As an irrational attempted fix, I bought 4 new Bosch O2 sensors. To develop a base line to compare before /after new O2 sensors I ran Durametric to plot the pre cat voltage for both banks. I plotted the voltages and then out of habit checked Ready Status and was incredulous that all Monitors showed "Pass" . Obviously a glitch in Durametric? So I tried Foxwell NT520 Pro. It also showed all Monitors Complete. Without turning off the engine I zipped off and got a Smog Test - at last- after 2 years of futile flailing. So what caused the SAI monitor to
  4. JFP and Loren, Thanks for your insights. Neither of my O2 sensor readings before the cats go immediately to the flat line value shown in the second("After Repair") graph. I get about 0.040Volts or less but it does fluctuate below that value. You have to be really fast at clicking through the screens on Durametric to get to both pre-cat O2 sensor voltage graphs to see the critical activity during the 90 seconds or less that the SAI Pump runs from cold. I'm going to try another set of new Bosch O2 sensors to see if that makes a significant /effective difference. Many thanks f
  5. For the 2001 cars there is a very difficult,obscure Secondary Air Injection ( or S.A.I.) "Not Ready" problem. This is also called "Inc" or "Incomplete". JFP has mentioned this in the past and we've had a few sagas here trying to resolve the issue but none as extreme as this one. The car shows no MIL/ Check Engine nor any Pending Codes. You won't fail a Smog Test even in California with this problem - your car will be "Declined". Which is nonsense because you won't get a Pass smog test certificate and you'll be unable to get tags for your car. But do pay the invoice !! You will be t
  6. Bob, Suggest you ask within the Porsche community for a referral to local Pcar Indies in Tennessee . The repair work is often the easier part of the task.The diagnosis based on years of experience with these cars is the valuable component - as you almost discovered with the throttle body nonsense. Someone may be able to confirm if a generic or VW/Audi relay is a good substitute,if indeed the relay is defective. Good Luck and let us know the outcome?
  7. When you refilled the reservoir, did you use all the correct equipment and procedure? Probably not. Let's see if the problem recurs.Suggest you carry spare coolant in the trunk and a funnel - it is awkward to refill. Meanwhile suggest you "Search" for the vacuum pump equipment(Airlift or similar) needed for refilling or at least the jack it up at the back method. And learn about 'burping'. Otherwise it may keep on dumping coolant until you refill it correctly YEMV. There are some good YouTube videos on this subject.
  8. Excellent Thread that hopefully will help others who follow. The diagnosis by Ahsai is invaluable. Yes the Durametric tool is essential but it is the interpretation of the results that is beyond the ability of many of us. Thank you to both of you for taking the time to chronicle the issue.
  9. Great that you passed inspection ! After 6 pages of back and forth with symptoms and failed fixes/resets --- for the benefit of future readers of your thread, what exactly do you think was the problem and why was it so difficult to fix ?
  10. I had a similar issue. The short version is to use the correct(ask!) grade of oil and drive the car gently if the rattle is slight. I replaced all my lifters twice and finally gave up and just drove it ! It eventually became silent. I think the lifters had bled down and were just slow at pumping up again -maybe ?
  11. gnmor - when refilling there is a special procedure .If you don't follow it you may get air-locks and that is not good. Check the Pelican diy for more.
  12. VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric. Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it. When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.
  13. Maybe use spiral wire reinforced tube or similar ? But a replacement from the usuals would be easier- $30 . Be careful that when you are blundering around down there to replace it you don't disturb other things.Pelican have a diy on doing this and some 'while you are in there' hints
  14. Suggest you read up on the effects of water ingress to those 2 units. A common problem in wet climates. There are remedies and preventative measures . Lots if you Search.
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