Schnell Gelb

True shameful confession- I find the Harbor Freight 1/4" drive Torque wrench is just as accurate as an "Aircraft" dial-type one I treasure. I also have a Brownline to compare it with.The only problem is the feeble 'break' when the limit is reached.You have to really concentrate to feel when the limit is reached. When on Sale it is around $15 ! YEMV. I used the HF when checking shading systems installed on the exterior of high rise buildings. The HF bounce just the same as Snap-On if you drop them.....and nobody ever stole it.ymev

If you need help choosing a Torque wrench, we'll help. Many  of the common ones are too clumsy to use in this situation. You need a small one. I use a 1/4" square drive.You need a loud beep or a very positive click/break. Some are so feeble you don't notice and you damage the threads.

These small steel bolts in very expensive aluminum parts are ...... If you think this job is bad, try helicoiling the cylinder head !

Torque wrenches targeted at the motor bike market are best imho.Like this maybe?

https://www.checkline.com/product/DTW

whoa ~ ! That was a risky move .Glad it worked. What you need to find hidden parts on the M96 is a flexible ,powerful  "Snake Light" - LED, tiny bulb, Invaluable.

https://www.amazon.com/SIDEWINDER-Ultra-thin-Flexible-Inspection-Light/dp/B0079NK1HS

20 minutes ago, talkenrain said:

 

 

Is there difference in bank 1 and bank 2 solenoid ? Do you know what the differences are?

Different part numbers and different color coding.

Check for your particular year/model. For my 2001 Bxstr S they are here:

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=103-10

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99660590200.htm?pn=996-605-902-00-OEM

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=996-605-902-00-

and don't forget to check the little heat shield

99610423301

Wow, I have never seen a Post with a photo showing  the solenoid internally.That would be interesting.

The nail-biting stage is the first run after fitting the new solenoid with Durametric connected. Good Luck there.

For others who are following, please note the Bank 1 and Bank 2 solenoids are not interchangeable.They are color coded to avoid confusion. You will see refernces to black, silver,grey, white. The critical issue is the color of the cap on top of the solenoid. If in doubt, order by Porsche part number.

I have found that oil may creep up the threads of some bolts and ooze onto the outside surface of the cam cover. Some have mentioned using thread sealer(not locker) under the head of the bolts to reduce this. Any excess sealer would be safely on the outside and easily removed with an Exacto blade.

Others may like to comment on the best choice of thread locker/sealer for the threads that penetrate the cylinder head.

For those missing Insite's wonderful photos here is an alternative - Nutrod !

http://www.nutrod.com/Nutrod/Pics/Pages/Install_Head_4-6.html

Camshaft identfication

Be careful ! Read the Pelican diy article.See links in link below. The INLET cam notch is 90 degrees(??) you mean 3 o'clock.

The Exhaust half moons should be vertical AND align with the parting line of the cam cover with the engine at TDC

But make sure you understand the small but vital difference between the reference positions on Bank 1 vs.Bank 2.

Here is an example where despite repeating this mantra confusion still ensued:

There is still the vacuum issue. But you would have to use a smoke machine because of the flashing CEL

You could try disconnecting the MAF. If that helps the rough running try the voltage and resistance test for the MAF.

I am trying to exhaust the list of easier items for you.

" Checked the cam timing and both banks are on the mark aligned with the timing notches while flywheel at TDC. " I presume you mean you confirmed the exhaust cam is in the correct position. What about the Inlet cam notch ?

Did you work on any area of the engine before this rough running happened ? AOS for example.

29 minutes ago, talkenrain said:

I'm done for today but i'm pretty sure I've removed all the bolts (last picture showed 2 still in the cover). My count is 23 bolts total (not counting the scavenge pump bolts). I'll check again in the morning to see if I've missed any. I will take care using the pry points, thanks.

Good , you got them all.

 

Can you provide a picture to illustrate the tensioner exact location and how to access it? Also, what tool is needed to remove it?

Officially a 32 mm socket. But I found an SAE 1-1/4 fits better. Odd.

The Bank 2 tensioner is under the a/c compressor. You have to move the compressor out of the way Do not detach the refrigerant hoses.

But this may not be needed....

 

Will I need to re-time the cams if nothing is moved? again, I'm only replacing the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid.

The solenoid comes off without disturbing the cam, sprocket, tensioner or chains. Just 2 little screws at the base of the World's most expensive solenoid iirc. Oddball size screws and easy to drop !

First You need to remove the Solenoid seal(2 internal hex/Allen head bolts) from the cam cover to get it off ..

So you are sure the fault is just the solenoid? What test did you perform to conclude this ?

On the bench you can test the solenoid by applying 9v and watch/feel the plunger jump.

 

Referring back to my latest pictures (from today). Besides the tensioner, is there anything else needed before removing the cover? Any lock or hold down for the cam at the front of the engine? Does the "cam hold down tool" at the rear of the engine look it's installed correctly? I just want to be sure before pulling the cover.

The Lock tool should engage in & hold down both cams and be bolted to the head through the adjacent threaded hole.Maybe you won't need to bother with saddles if you  just R& R the solenoid.But I would use them !

 

Thanks everyone for all your help and advice. 

Timing tool.

With the engine in place you can't use the big timing tool.Pity because it works great out of the car !

We can tell you how to time the cams to the engine at TDC when you are ready. You lock the crankshaft at TDC for cyl 1 or 4 (depending on the Bank you are working on), hold down both cams with the saddles and turn the cams using a 22m wrench on the camshaft - very very carefully. If you are very careful in allocating the cams little or no adjustment will be necessary.I use assembly lube on the saddles.

First make sure you got all the bolts from the cam cover. Some are rather concealed.It may be hard to dislodge the cover. Find the pry points and be very careful not to break off a tab on the edge of the cam cover.

Bank 2 Tensioner for the IMS to Ex Cam chain is under the a/c compressor.It acts on a huge 'paddle' to tension the long chain

Do not confuse this(like Pelican do) with the Variocam actuator -that they also call a tensioner. That Variocam unit sits between the 2 cams .The real Tensioner is under the a/c compressor. That is why we never call the Variocam actuator a tensioner.The short cam to cam chain is only for transmitting motion from the exh cam sprocket to the Inlet cam.This is the one with the colored(sometimes) links that has the tricky spacing between divots on the sprockets of the Exh and Inlet cams.

All my comments relate to Bank 1 on the M96 Boxster engine.

The 3 o'clock descriptors relate to the hour hand of an imaginary clock face when facing the notched end of the inlet cam.

If you have any doubts about the Lifters 'ticking' , now is the time to remove/check/replace and consider trying to measure for wear in the bores of the lifter carrier.Yes I am paranoid because this is a very time consuming job to do - twice or 3 times ! Lifters have dropped in price now that generic replacements have been identified.

Broken Bolt

See Post 11 here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/994577-welding-on-the-car-engine-disconnecting-the-battery-only-step-needed.html

and

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/989630-exhaust-bolt-broken-in-head-don-t-panic-get-this-simple-drill-guide.html

Stainless steel stud kits are available inexpensively on EBay. No more bolts !

The link you gave has one blurred photo of the notch at the end of the Inlet Cam of Bank 1. It is very important because it shows the controversial "2.45" position not the 3.00 position of the notch . This is for TDC Cyl 1 ,Bank 1.That is also what the FSM shows in a diagram.

See the 2nd photo here:

http://www.rennsportkc.com/anatomy-of-an-m96-engine-rennsport-kansas-city/

42 minutes ago, talkenrain said:

Thanks, Yes, I've been reading all articles referenced over and over. Some have a bit of conflicting messages but i think it's because some refer to bank 1 while others refer to bank 2. So now I have a few questions...

 

1) Is it necessary to remove the tensioner and the spark plug tubes before cracking the cover? this article says to remove both but pelican doesn't say anything about either.

I did it the way the linked article instructs. Some ppl have trouble removing the tubes so may leave them in the cam cover? Impossible if the engine is in place in a Boxster I would think.Tubes may be cracked/old anyway. TheRennsportKC tube extraction system(transom plug) is ineffective sometimes.Use the long bolt+washer system instead.Even with that system you may need prybars !

If you leave the Tensioner for the IMS to Ex cam chain in place it will exert awful force on the cam when the cover is removed imho.

2) Do I need to secure the cam at the front of the engine using my cam lock tool (see tool reference photo above)? Again, pelican instructions don't say anything about it and in there illustration it looks like both cams are secured by the head (near the front of the engine, between the chains). I've included pelicans picture.

Yes, secure both cams . Once you get the cam cover off you can fit the 2 saddles from the Baum kit.

I am not an expert but I have done this job with the engine in the car and on the engine stand.

If you do not need to Pass a Smog Test ,just use extenders on the 2 new rear O2 sensors ? Just be careful you get the correct design to fit the limited space. Of course this would be  illegal in many States but not yours ? It would fool the rear o2 sensors into not throwing a code even if you gutted the cats

I say "gutted" because old cat bricks get loose and may restrict the exhaust flow.

I am not recommending this just offering a theoretical

So to eliminate a lot of variables,why not do as suggested and idle the engine with the MAF cable disconnected at the MAF ?

Not a brilliant suggestion but quick,simple,does no harm and costs nothing.

MAF problems sometimes set no codes.

You must have  codes associated with the rich stall condition?

If you disconnect the battery ,remember to follow the Initialization Procedure

How to check Cam Timing with a Misfire:

You need 2 Tools imho:

1. Durametric -to read Actual Values and Deviation. Also check the specific misfire codes.

2. The Baum or LN tools to physically  set  or check the timing of the 2 Camshafts.

The problem is you may have a flashing CEL so running the engine any longer than necessary is bad.

You can eye-ball the half-moons and the Inlet notch to get maybe +/- 20 degrees Crk. Almost useless.

Before you consider removing the Camshaft Cover to investigate ,do some research or start a separate Thread because access is awful with the engine in place.

Check the many easier issues like basic maintenance, MAF ,Vacuum Leaks. For example the AOS hoses/connectors/seals.

Disclosure: I am working (again I am embarrassed to say!) on a Bank 1 misfire and am investigating every alternative to removal(again!) of the Cam Cover.

Mine is a 2001 S with a recently rebuilt engine.Codes are P0300,0301,0305 .These are Porsche Codes 62,63,67 per Durametric..

In my case the Actual Value for the timing (cold)on Bank 1 at idle is negative 10 degrees. Bank 2 is less than 2 degrees. It runs rough stinks of gasoline and has a flashing CEL with codes as above. New plugs.coils,injectors,new CkPS,new cam to cam timing chains but a suspect  Variocam Actuator. Strangely the static Cam  Timing is perfect.

The IMS to Cam chain is original but 'good' the chain tensioner seemed very strong when I did this same job a month ago.

If you must remove the Cam Cover - the best write ups have recently lost all their photos due to the Image Hosting Providers going awol.

Insite had the best and it was linked and used  many times .But without the photos it is not as usful. The FSM has the basics.

For example:

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/26418-diy-setting-cam-timing-m96.html

Maybe someone on RennTech has a solution ?

Pelican has a useful Section intended for the 996

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm

or the Boxster version - but you already have the book?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner.htm

1.Just be careful about Wayne's ambiguous use of "Chain Tensioner". Sometimes Wayne means the Variocam Solenoid+Actuator assy., sometimes he really means one of the 3 actual  Chain Tensioners.

2. I don't understand why he removes the Camshaft Sprocket (Figure 8) from the Exhaust Camshaft with the IMS-to-Cam chain  still under tension. For Bank 1 that you are concerned with ,the big nut for the Chain Tensioner is easily accessible on the underside of the engine . Why not remove it before trying to remove the Sprocket ?

3. Note Fig 18 - one of the few remaining photos showing the correct (8) link spacing between the cams.Mark the 'divots' with a paint pen.New chains may not have the helpful colored links !

4. It may not be a Timing error if the notch of the Bank 1  Inlet cam notch points slightly upward (& toward the passenger side rear wheel) with the engine at TDC and the Exhaust cam correctly positioned with the LN tool.The FSM shows the notch at roughly 2.45 , not 3.00.

5. Access requires removal of many other parts. Then need to drop the engine as far as possible. If you are not using a lift ,this would be difficult.

Cam Timing - maybe, but it would have to be a common component to both Banks if 1,5=Bank 1 & 6=Bank 2 are causing the codes.

That is why I suggested the basic cam timing check by removing the green plugs.

Vacuum leak  is still a possibility if the misfire is caused by an excessively lean condition in those cylinders.

The plug color may give clues?

My speculation is not authoritative so best for you to gather evidence and let the smarter guys comment.

Agree with the deferred maintenance diagnosis .If the plugs,seal,coils are old - it is prudent to replace all in my experience.It will eliminate all those issues from any future diagnosis.

Seems you have misfire on cyls. 1,5,6. So both Banks are affected. Are you sure the 6 was not a 3 ? I ask because that would have limited the diagnosis to Bank 1. In turn that would have suggested a need to check the static timing (the green plugs job).

Were the plugs tips wet with gasoline or oil ?  Was the body of the plug wet with oil(seal leakage)?

Once you've done the parts replacement work let us know what codes you get?

A good idea to poke around looking for vacuum leaks. For example the AOS hoses and their brittle connectors and missing seals?

There is a metal washer inside the Green caps.

Use a SOFT scraper. I use a hard plastic. Acetone /alcohol will soften it. You need a perfect surface.Don't drop bits of old sealant .

Before you go furrther make sure you mark the Scavenge pump orientation.You need a replacement (giant size) "O" ring

Ask here about the stage at which you may want to remove the big chain tensioer. that bears on the paddle for the IMS to Cam chain.

Great progress and loved your electrical diagnostics !

Duncan is correct but here is a little hack if ,like me you are paranoid about cam timing.

Be gentle removing the green plugs. A strong ,small screwdriver may help after you have punctured the center with the pick.

Save the old plugs. If you put a minimal dab of precious Drei Bond on both (clean !) sides of the puncture ,it will seal.

I use these to test run the engine after completion. Replace with new seals after the successful test run. This may  save the delay of running out of seals and delaying your work.

Before all this, make sure you have a good visual reference link on how to space the links between the camshaft marks.Many of the images I had bookmarked to share have disappeared from the image hosting sites we all used.

Suggest you search IPD and look for posts where Jake commented. Few others have actually done the dyno work to confirm their preferences.

" Why would it take 2 months and 3,000 miles from the time the DOF was installed to the time the noise started? "

Speculatively :

1. It took that long for the reduced oil pressure/volume (DOF) to cause sufficient valve train wear to then cause ticking ?

2. It took that long for the fresh oil to be sheared to the point where it was much too thin- which is why the noise decreased when you put fresh oil in ?

3. Some debris was dislodged and found it's way to the 'dead end' some tappets inside the buckets ?

4. The bores in the lifter cradle are worn = 996.104.105.53 84,824  ?

The easy tests are to plug the DOF as suggested .Then fill with the best oil for the M96(separate Thread). Those 2 issues will eliminate the obvious/simple.

Recently lifters have become much cheaper.The labor not so much ....

Theoretically, the Lifter Carrier/cradle can be bored and sleeved .Check these bores if/when you replace lifters.Replace  all the Lifters on whichever side is ticking because they are cheap enough now.They have been upgraded also.