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Cassiebox

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Everything posted by Cassiebox

  1. There's a complete set up currently for sale on a popular auction site. Do a search for: porsche boxster bose speaker set
  2. Andy- Great COMPLETE write up and thanks for taking the time to document the entire process! I wish this was available before I fumbled my way thru each of these upgrades to my stock M490 system. You ought to see if this can be added to the Boxster Wiki site as well for posterity.
  3. I apologize as I should have explained more fully. Yes, there are different M490 architectures depending on MY. For instance, my 99 has the M490, but only has a 4x40 amp. The '03-'04 models that have the M490 include a 6x40 amp (which I think are the MOST systems). I do not think a MOST amp will work in a non-MOST system and I seem to recall seeing somewhere that the pin hook ups for the MOST system are completely different sized, etc. but could be mistaken. Anyhow, I do know for certain that the M680 amp will not work in a M490 system w/out the extra control panel for the interior. I think as long as you find a HAES 6x40 amp you'll be fine. Specifically, you should be looking for part # 996.645.311.00 or 996.645.313.00 w/ the M490. I was able to get part# 996.645.313.00 and it works great in my 99.
  4. Either the coupe or a cab one will work. What's important is the pin connection (which you'll be able to tell if they are the same by picture - some earlier Nokia amps and Bose amps had tiny pins). More importantly is if it's a M490 or M680. With your '97, you'll want the M490 6x40 amp. Otherwise, you'll also need the M680 control panel for your center consol. The M680 was the DSP option and would also require running an add'l harness into the cockpit to control the bass, etc. aside from the stereo functions, etc. Good luck and I wouldn't pay over $100. Otherwise, you'd be better off just getting and aftermarket 6x amp so you can get full sound from your door speakers too.
  5. I think what you are looking for then is part #996 552 181 02 which should be about $20. Hope this helps.
  6. I'd try either Becker or Crutchfield. One or both should have something to fit your need.
  7. Not really. The radio will turn off after a few seconds automatically when the car is shut off and the key removed from ignition. However, you can always manually turn the radio on/off w/out key in ignition at any time. It will stay on until you manually shut it off, or until you put key in ignition, turn on car and then shut off and remove key. Then it will again shut off automatically after a few seconds. That's been my experience at least.
  8. On the '03-'04, the M490 option does include a 6x amp. '02 and prior only include a 4x amp. Mine is a '99 and I originally only had a 4x40 as part of my M490. As I recall, I think the original question was regarding an '02 which would be the same. As for the crossover to door speakers, I'm pretty sure (but not 100%) it's fixed and part of the amp circuitry. Therefore, even if you swapped out the doors w/ full range speakers, you'd still only get low.
  9. Do you have separate sound system control below your radio in the center? If so, you've probably got the 680 DSP. If not, then as long as you have door speakers, you'll have the M490 pkg. You can check the options listed on the sticker in the front trunk, or look at the sticker on the amp in the front trunk. The front trunk sticker will just list option 490 or option 680. If you check out the amp, your sticker will look like the one below except your part # will start w/ 986.... and will either have M490 or 680 where I have circled in red:
  10. Sammy- Yes, I got mine thru Ebay. They show up occasionally, but not all the time. Just make sure you get the one that matches your system - M490 or M680 (has DSP). You can add a M680 to a 490 system, but only if you get the control panel and are interested in modifying your center consol to fit it. The other option would be to just add a 2ch amp piggy-back to your stock amp to drive just the rears. (PNP has a kit on Ebay often, but it's another $200 which I think is high and the power rating is so much higher than stock, most of your sound/power will come from the rear then). The other place I think you might be able to find one is a local swap. I'd check w/ a dealer just to find out the cost of a new 6x40 amp so you can bid intelligently on the used one. Personally, I wouldn't pay over $100 but that's just me.
  11. Upgrading the speakers helps, but I would also add a rear speaker kit (driven w/ an amp not just the head unit - to match the power evenly). Better dash speakers will increase the clarity dramatically and adding rears changes the focal point of the music. Changing the focal point in the vehicle drastically increases the low end/bass presence from your door speakers. I'm not a die hard audiophile but I do enjoy clear music. I made the following changes easily to my '99 and am pleased w/ the results: - changed out dash speakers w/ 4.25" Infinity Refence Series $80 - added PNP rear speaker kit - $225 - swapped out factory 4x40 amp w/ a used 6x40 from a 996 - $80 Everything still looks stock, but sounds great. It took about 3 evenings of work to complete. The only other thing I might do some rainy day is replace the door woofers - but it's not a priority as they only produce lows. Pricey custom brackets are NOT at all necessary - just some simple modifications to non visible parts of the existing ones and either 4 short pieces of wire w/ connectors or a soldering iron can do the trick! Good luck and do an archives search on 'speaker' or 'rear speakers' to find great step by step instructions from others here.
  12. Exactly as Chris in NH said, except if you are tying them into a 996 6x40 amp, you don't need to punch a hole into the trunk carpet. Instead, delicately pull the trunk carpet forward and route the wire extensions alonside the existing harness up to the amp. In order to pull the carpet forward and to provide a little easier access in adding the wires to the amp harness, you'll need to unbolt the amp and it's mounting brackets form the trunk wall. Then just route your wires, test the system and reassemble. Once you contort your body enough to look up under the dash, you'll find your wires coming into the inside of the vehicle about 12 inches (or so) directly above the gas pedal. I'd use a coat hanger or fish tape to feed them through the rubber grommet. This will give you something to push/pull with other than he wires. Good luck - it's definitely worth the upgrade.
  13. I think 6.5" in the door will be a huge improvement - especially for hitting new 'lows'. Good luck and please post your results as I'm sure others like me are very interested!
  14. First things first, I'd drive your PNP rear speakers w/ an amp not the head unit just to balance the power from the dash/door speakers w/ the rear. I did mine w/ a 6x40 amp from a 996. If you want to keep a stock appearance, I'd go that route. Make sure you use the correct amp (M490 or 680 w/ DSP depending on what you currently have). Otherwise you can replace it with any good 6ch amp or just add a seperate 2ch to drive only the rears. Doing so helps increase the presence of the low end coming from the doors, dash and rear speakers as it dramatically changes the focal point in the car. You'd be surprised at the low end you get when driving the rears w/ power equal to the front w/out adjusting the fade. (I was surprised at the freq response range on the rear - very broad considering their size - and much clearer when driven in unison w/ the doors). Haven't done it myself but, I've read many posts suggesting to fill the speaker cavities in the rear shelf w/ poly-fil (seems counter intuitive to me based on the air flow you want/need but I'm no expert). If you do swap out a 6x40 from a 996, search the archives for where the wires go into the amp harness or contact PNP for help (and also to get the additional harness which runs from inside to the amp). I would also replace the stock dash speakers (I did w/ a pair of Infiniti 4" Refrences - about $70). They aren't 'components' like the OEMs but they are coaxials - which is the next best thing but w/ much less work to install. The freq response on them is so much better than the OEMs which in turn gives you greater clarity in all ranges- highs,lows and mids. Clarity, in my opinion, is really 70% of the issue. You'll need to modify the basket/bracket on the back to fit in aftermarkets, but it is very easy to do. The toughest part of the entire job was finding the right 90 degree driver w/ T20 bit to remove the speakers/grills from the dash. I'd post pictures but didn't take any since so many others who've already done these upgrades did such a great job documenting their steps. Just search the archives for speaker upgrade ideas. Haven't added (and don't ever plan on it) a separate sub. However, I might upgrade the door speakers some day. I figured I'd save the easiest swap out for last since those usually have the least impact too. Low end response is much much better these days and I'm pleased w/ the system's performance now. Besides, the best 'music' in the car will always be the exhaust notes coming from the rear... Good luck and I hope this helps!
  15. They are very easy to apply - double sided tape. Based classy-ness and price, Harvey is the one to go with. I just ordered a pair from him this week. His email address is no longer 944nut@.... However, he can be reached at harveypnp at comcast dot net. Can't wait to install mine next week when they get here.
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