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Everything posted by Cassiebox

  1. Hopefully no issues w/ the overheating but yeah, not a great idea doing so. Aside from oil change and coolant flush/fill... you need to first find out why it snapped. Assuming belt has been replaced at least once before in your car's 11 years (as part of either the 60k or 6? year maint) it really won't unless there is another problem. So, inspect all the accessories driven by belt from crankshaft (waterpump, alt, pwr steering, a/c) along w/ the two deflecting rollers and tensioned roller. Typically the w/p or a seized roller is issue. Steam could be from w/p or coolant blow off from pressure valve - which side/where on vehicle was it coming from? Good luck and hopefully nothing wrong as these engines do not take well to hot spots...
  2. There is a slight bend in vertical shaft portion of shifter. Is yours a true B&M or a knock off (with B&M the vertical shaft is machined...knock offs typically are high polish chrome)? And why is this important to know? Knock offs are/were known to assemble with the shaft turned 180 degrees from orig design (maybe in error or effort to try and avoid patent infringement?). Thus w/ knock offs, shift knob ended up further left. That's my guess assuming shift cables are 100% correctly seated in housing and cable ends i.e. you can properly select each gear. Good luck :)
  3. You can very easily (and inexpensively ~ $30) make a set yourself w/ wire mesh (ebay, home improvement stores, etc.). For cleanest looking installation, yes you need to remove the bumper but there are kits which attach from front side. It's a good idea to remove front bumper occasionally anyhow to clean out radiators /condensers. You'd be amazed at how much debris accumulates in there inhibiting effective cooling.
  4. If you still have OEM Velcro buttons in foot-well carpet, I'd scrap the Lloyds tabs all together and just stick some 'fuzzy' (loop) side Velcro to back of mats. Then use an Xacto knife to trim off stitching holding female tab to Lloyd's mat back. Velcro will hold them just as / more securely plus you'll never forget to unclip mats when removing in future. 2" wide velcro (available in most hardware and craft stores) works perfectly. Although Velcro is adhesive backed, I also add a few dabs of super-glue to ensure they stay put... which they have for 2+ years even w/ monthly removal for cleaning, etc.. Basically, cut the loop side into four 2" x 2" squares (2 needed per mat). Mate it w/ the hook side in the foot-well. Remove tape over adhesive side and place 3-4 small dabs of super-glue on adhesive. Then, place mats back into foot-well keeping rear portion raised from Velcro and position as desired. Once in place, lower rear of mat onto super-glue/adhesive back of Velcro loop. Press firmly where Velcro is and wait a minute. Then, pull mat back out making sure to gently pull and reach under to assist release of loop Velcro (now attached to back of mat) from hook in floor button. Allow to cure overnight outside of vehicle and you'll be all set! Otherwise, yes try Lloyd's or one of their resellers for replacement clips. Good luck :)
  5. most likely... which would 'splain why most of us are missing ours too - :cheers: There is one screws (per side) on underside of bumper which hold in wheel well liner but I doubt they also hold this spoiler in place but they might.
  6. Might this work? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/999L65009140B.html?Category_Code=997_Carrera_S_Interiorradio If not, maybe give Ryan or Ric a call at Suncoast to let them know exactly what you did and they should be able to supply needed parts. Good luck :)
  7. Sylvania Silverstars are pricey but good. In my experience though they don't last all that long. No experience w/ Philips Vision Stars but they make great quality HID bulbs (which I have a few sets of). Either choice should be fine. Couple of other notes... If you have an Advance Auto near you, find their latest coupon mail for $10 off or buy online w/ their discount code and pick up in store. In non-HID set up, your low, high and fog lights all use H7 bulbs so you can swap around in a pinch. Buy the twin pack and just go ahead and replace both sides at once. In my many years of experience, opposite side goes w/in a week or two. So you might as well save $ buying twin pack and time changing both sides now... unless you know of some reason why one side failed prematurely. Good luck :)
  8. and by long, he means much longer than keys in typical folding sets sold in stores as you've discovered. A long handled T set should reach but if you don't already have you'll find it more economical to use a 5-in-1 screwdriver (which you probably already have) and then get a 3" extension & 5mm bit which fit. If not magnetized, throw a little tape around the connections to secure (which I do even though mine is magnetized as a just in case...) Good luck :)
  9. Don't know your MY but presume you have a 997.1... To my knowledge, only way to get phone option is to also buy the add on Bluetooth accessory kit for Dension. This is completely separate from the OEM phone option (which is only applicable for Europe cars/phones) built in our cars... thus why your dealer probably has no idea. I don't think Porsche offered factory phone integration (aka BlueTooth) on 997s until the 997.2 in '09 (though I think it was available in peppers prior). Eric @ bumperplugs.com is a Dension distributor and can provide you w/ the accessory and more info as you need. Good luck :)
  10. That looks like the aspheric mirror, no? If so, it'll be -02 at the end, not -01, correct?
  11. you'd also need to add the position sensors and wiring for the auto level feature, but that's a lot more hassle than it's worth and minimally helpful to the driver...
  12. If you turn on via PCM your xenons will also turn on [at full power too since they aren't 'dimmable'] as they normally do under this setting. In order to get them [RotTecs] to function as just DRLs w/o any other lights on, you'll need to add the Dectane DRL module. 5 page thread on these over at 6speedonline but you probably already know that... http://www.6speedonl...ics-videos.html Good luck :)
  13. Suncoast no help? Strange as they've always been very helpful for me - talk to Ric Knab or Ryan. Only suggestion is to retrace your steps again and test wiring and receptacle again w/ your multimeter and make sure plug is seated correctly on back side as sometimes they are tight and can get knocked out of position. That said, some people get annoyed w/ the cig lighter being 'always on'. There is an off chance previous owner may have had it re-wired to switched (it's a PITA, but doable). So, test it w/ car on too just in case. Worst case scenario, you can always do a direct connect to the battery for your maintainer. I have a c-tek unit and hooked up the eyelets to the battery for long term winter storage and only use cig lighter option for short term maintaining (like when I'll be gone for three weeks or so). As well, you could always add a separate cig lighter to the hidden phone power cord in the center console... Remove carpeted panel by pulling outward 1-2" at red arrow on either one in driver or passenger foot well. When it pops, slide it forward into the footwell to release the slide tabs: Look/reach around in there for a 4 conductor plug... it might be taped down but it looks like this Then, hit your local parts store and pick up an extra cig lighter receptacle and some splice-tap connectors. Hook it up accordingly to the always on lead: I had done mine like this for an accessory which I wanted to turn on/off w/ ignition switch. Bonus is you'll have an extra (when you get your other one working ;) ) cig lighter to use. Good luck :)
  14. If the tips are chrome... you'll likely get ~ $2-250 for them but much less if just SS (I asked $275 for my chrome ones and accepted $225 which seemed to be going price). Cans... pretty much need based so if you find someone desperate (say a lease turn in going back to stock) you could get ~ $500. Otherwise likely ~$300 or so. Throw some ads out there on the various boards... may take some time for cans but unless you need them gone for cash or space, let it ride and just bump it occasionally. Enjoy your new PSE... did they wire it fully in (w/ S/C or separate PSE switch) or leave open all the time or add a supplemental switch? Just curious. :)
  15. Yes, sounds like power to receptacle. For wiring at the plug...red +, brown -, and blue/white should be + for the light (grounded to ring on receptacle IIRC). So, your coil/lighter sounds like it's bad. Do you have a cell phone/gps/tire pump/etc. cig lighter cord w/ power indicator light you can put in receptacle to test (I wouldn't necessarily have the gadget attached at the time..). Should be fine though for your maintainer... BTW, if the car was off, you should have a reading of ~ 12.6V not 14. However, if you were using the 1000V setting (as opposed to a 20V or even 100V) it may be due to rounding by the DMM.?? If car is running it should be ~ 13.2-14.6V.
  16. Won't pop b/c it's not heating. Could be lighter or receptacle but you should be able to pull out lighter... Are you sure you seated electrical plug correctly on back? I'd suggest pulling the wing off again and use a multimeter to ensure there is power at the electrical plug. If there is, reconnect and test receptacle using multimeter... center is + and metal collar is - . Good luck :)
  17. Here's a picture I mocked up quickly to help Good luck :)
  18. the assembly is not threaded - friction/compression fitted. In the 2000 Boxster, the horse-shoe trim around the radio/etc. is 3 pcs: a left wing, right wing and center. All you need to remove is the right wing. Start at the bottom corner using either plastic trim panel removal tools or a kitchen butter knife covered w/ electrical tape to prevent scratching. Gently pry out on as large of an area/piece of corner as you can. Continue working your way up until the piece pops free... Remember, because it's plastic and 11-12 years old, you don't want to put too much pressure on a small point. Once the trim panel is removed, disconnect electrical plug on back of current outlet. Then force the center and lighted ring out from the back side. Sometimes they come out easily, other times not so much. You will likely snap off the ear that has existing bulb in it. No worries as it's extremely unlikely you'll ever want to put the original back in and the new one comes w/ new light/ear. To install the new... DO NOT attempt dry fit as you'll have much difficulty trying to separate the lighted ring form the socket (and you cannot put in the panel as one complete assembly). Instead, follow the directions... fit the lighted trim ring in the panel. Then slide in the socket (they may have changed the set up but you used to have to attached the light "ear" first). Push the socket in until it clicks into place - which will take some force. Reconnect electrical plug and test socket before you put wing back into horseshoe. All should be good to go and push wing back into the horseshoe. Shouldn't take more than 20min even taking your good ole time... it's been a good 5 years since I did the one in my 986 but this pretty much covers the entire procedure. For later MY (2002+ IIRC), the horseshoe is one piece all the way around.. no separate wings and the switches for lock/PSM/etc. are horizontal not on the diagonal. Battery disconnect is not at all necessary to complete this easy mod. Good luck :)
  19. not 100% sure but I imagine the dealer or a service shop w/ PIWIS software set up will need to be involved. Maybe not on removal, but almost definitely on re-installation. Couple of random thoughts... - w/o nav drive in the loop, nothing will work as they all electronically handshake w/ each other in the 'authorized' loop. - might you have deeper issues? when my NAV didn't work (different issue - no disc), radio, cd and cd changer still did. Why not seriously consider going w/ an aftermkt set up - I've seen a number which integrate as well if not better than factory. $1400 is a lot for just NAV (when most NAV systems are a couple hundred $ these days). Bet you could find a nice high end stereo shop to replace the entire set up for not much more and have it more functional i.e.: live NAV updates, satellite radio, HD radio, ipod/MP3 integration, bluetooth, HDD, etc. Might be less but regardless it will certainly be more reliable... Good luck :)
  20. re: maintainers... unless RT.org gets $50 from the purchase, which I doubt, why not make a $25 contribution to RT.org and then just pick up the CTEK original version (CTEK 3300) - $57 here and the $12.54 cig plug here. RT will get more and you'll still save $25 even after contribution and have more connection options. Good luck :)
  21. Agree on changing both at same time... they were likely made, installed, and always run at same time so service life will be similar (barring any known reasons for premature failure w/ one). My experience with automotive lights (other than dedicated turn signals) has been that once one goes... other side will likely fail w/in two weeks or so. Even if you don't swap both at same time, you should by the twin pack just to save a few $ and an extra trip to parts store b/c you WILL need it shortly. Good suggestion to carry working take out as spare. Funny thing you mention newer bug... my niece has one ('06 IIRC) which needless to say is "not well cared for"; she's an urban dweller. Anyhow, she had a burned out headlight and was complaining how expensive dealer was for changing. I told her I'd be glad to show her how to swap it out herself for under $10. More than enthusiastic about the prospect, and armed w/ correct bulb size I gave her, she picked up new ones at a local O'Reilly's. Well... remember how I said "not well cared for"? The levers were a major PITA to move. Even when I got them to move, they wouldn't pop the pod out out easily. It took a lot of "coaxing" by pulling gently on the lens and forcing it out from back behind the bracket. Once I got it out I could see the problem... channels were absolutely caked w/ dirt/grime/road debris etc... Anyhow, I cleaned the channels and smeared some white lithium grease in to [hopefully] prevent jamming again next time for her. However, I think the lesson that stuck was "my uncle can change my burned out headlights much cheaper than the dealer can" - LOL - well at least it'll be easier for me next time :D
  22. You also have to reset the PSM (w/ a drive to the end of your driveway) and the auto-dip/one touch window open close (open window all the way, then press switch down again & hold for 2 seconds, close window all the way and press switch up again holding for 2 seconds). Maybe seat memory too if you have but that's pretty much it. BTW, most off the shelf replacement batteries in the US, as I understand, are all made by Johnson Controls. They may have slightly different specs across brand names but for most part, they're the same - just wear different lipstick (labels). Aside from buying correct group size (so it meets min specs), your decision on what brand should primarily be geared towards warranty. In the past, when Optima offered 7year replacement, I had no problems paying their 30% premium. However, they've since cut back to 36mo yet increased the premium to 50% +. As such, I'll buy if I can get a comparable price to other 36month batteries, if not I'll pass. I do prefer their AGM format as opposed to flooded cell since my car is stored 5-6 months per year but it's not the be all end all. A well maintained battery can last a long time but it's getting tougher with all the vampire juice demands of today's intricate electronics. The OEM battery in my '99 986 lasted ~ 10 years to the day. The one in my 997 probably was good for at least another year (making it 6years old) but I was starting to see some weakness (required more frequent distilled water top-offs) and decided to change it preemptively. Good luck :)
  23. A helpful $ tip... If you live near an AdvanceAuto... sign up for their e-blasts. Pretty much once a week they send out an e-blast good for 20% off any item... batteries included :D Then... if you register for an acct and buy it on-line for pick up in store, and it's over $100, you'll get an extra $50 to spend at a later date. Over Labor Day I picked up an Optima 34R for my 997 for ~ $148 after 20% discount. Two weeks ago I used another 20% coupon and my $50 credit to replace the battery in my wifes car w/ their AutoCraft Gold 3yr full replacement. All told, replaced batteries in 2 cars for ~ $178. Good luck :)
  24. no similar issues here but definitely sounds like your headlight switch is bad... having said that, they were/are known to go bad on the 9x6s which is of similar design. If it truly is the switch that is of issue, you could easily DIY (and I hope your indy's labor charges reflect accordingly). All you need to do is push in on the dial knob, and turn it to the right ~ 1/8 turn. Then pull outward and entire switch comes out**. Quickly disconnect wiring harness and fit to new switch and reverse to insert. ** when turning the knob, it doesn't click or lock into a slot as you would expect it too. Just push it in and gently turn clockwise. Once it hits the right stop, pull outward. Good luck :)
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