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Cassiebox

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Everything posted by Cassiebox

  1. Are you referring to the nut in the windshield header which has become split like this? If so, and I hope not, it's only accessible by removing the windshield. However, you can replace it with a better than OEM set-up using nutserts/pemserts. There's a DIY on how to in post #5 of this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=19564 Good luck and hope this helps :)
  2. see this thread. Info is located in the pdf guide http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9613
  3. Don't know specifically if they'll fit, but they look identical to the 996/986 dash grilles so they should. Incidentally, have you looked at the OEM factory dash speakers? Can't imagine why anyone would want to keep them. Yes I understand for resale you don't want to give someone $1000 speaker upgrades but when you're ready to sell, you could just as easily replace the great ones w/ some good cheaper ones. The buyer will thank you. The OEM dash speakers really are crappy worthless "drivers". Most of us who've upgraded ours just cut them out and reused the baskets to mount nice aftermarket coaxials or components. Good luck :)
  4. In the factory non-Bose system (basic, M490 and M680 options) the speakers are usually 4 Ohm in Dash, 2 Ohm in door, 4 Ohm in rear. Bose, as you are finding out, does funky things regarding speaker impedance and matches it w/ their amp accordingly. Therefore, it isn't easy to crossover b/w systems due to mismatch. I'm sure you could wire in some resistors, etc. in-line to make these work w/ the rest of your system but not sure how much hassle it'd be nor do I know the details. Sorry. A 2001 Boxster only has a 4ch (40W per) amp to power the doors and dash. Most often rear speakers are driven off the h/u (at only 18W) unless PO ungraded to a 6ch amp. So..... a simpler solution may be to replace the speakers in the Bose box w/ components that match up (impedance wise) to the doors and dash (either 2 or 4 Ohm). If you have a 6ch amp, then you'll be fine and should just wire them up to the rear channels on amp. Otherwise, you'll want to replace the amp w/ a 6ch (or piggyback on a 2ch just for the rear box) to power system evenly. Or, you could get a Bose amp and replace the door and dash speakers w/ Bose components. As a side note.... know the factory amp (whether 4ch or 6ch) has a crossover built in. This filters to allow only lows to go to the door speakers. Just thought you'd want to know in case that has any bearing on what you plan to do or where you plan to hook up the unit from. Good luck :)
  5. As I recall, it does not have the wiring in place - you will need to run it. There are some posts w/ info on how to as others have done it. Good luck!
  6. You'll see the cable when you look in a little further and up higher..... Anyhow, nice job marking the photo - you identified all the locations. However, PCA pt B is a location for placing a jack stand, not necessarily a place to jack from. This spot is useful if your jack can't reach point A and you therefore need to raise one side at a time from the rear lift location. If your jack will reach point A (which it looks like it should if yours is in the photo) then you need not worry about pt B. When you raise the entire rear from A, you can easily place stands under both rear lift points at once. After you lower the car onto the stands, it's easiest to leave the jack in position and raise it back up to touch the crossmember again - but do not take the carrying load off the stands. This serves both as a double safety (in case a stand failed for any reason - unlikely) and eliminates the need to crawl back under to reposition the jack when you're ready to lower the car again ;) Not sure where you searched previously, but here's a good thread w/ recommendations from Tool Pants, one of the resident experts here on Renntech. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...851&hl=jack Now that you know how to lift your car correctly, I hope you doing some cool mods to it B)
  7. I use the one you describe from the PCA site - it's also the one recommended in the Bentley manual. Their [PCA's] explanation means toward front of car when looking under from tailpipe. There are 2 very similar looking locations...... one just in front of the muffler and the correct one on the forward side of the plate. The engine safety cable is bolted to the correct one (which is also the rear axle support) as shown here.... Problem is.... w/out a long handled jack, it's tough to use the more forward one PCA recommends. So people will often use the rear one. Don't know if it's good or bad but if you look closely in the picture they are showing the rearward one being used (muffler just in foreground by jack - plus rainyday admitted to using it on another forum b/c they thought it was the correct one).
  8. That sux - sorry to hear :( Anyhow, if you pop the inside triangle "sail" piece off, there should be 2 (IIRC) screws holding it from the inside. To pop the sail, use a small screwdriver or panel puller and pry it from the bottom gently about 1/2 an inch (take care to protect the door leather trim w/ a towel or such). Once it pops free (about 1/2" or so), wiggle it up to slide it off completely. Good luck :)
  9. Thank you. Will try it again after picking up a new clip. and make sure the plug is flush w/ the arm when sliding the clip up. It's like a key hole and needs to slide into the grooves on the plug just so. Good luck :)
  10. there is only one rear fog and it will be located on the drivers' side of the vehicle (left w/ LHD and right on RHD models). You can, as some have, run a jumper wire to the opposite side housing and have both lit simultaneously. Then they'd look like your brake lights are on - like lots of Audi's runnin' around :huh:
  11. Thanks for the hints! I will report back when it's fixed. (will be a couple of weeks) The pin #s are marked on the amp and harness. Depending on your level of "chronological advancement", you may or may not need a magnifying glass and flash light to see them ;) Here are the pin # designations to put the rear speaker in phase w/ the fronts as well: RL- 16 RL+ 6 RR- 15 RR+ 5 To trim the extra tab off the amp, just use and exacto or utility knife and slice it off. It will come off very easily and you don't need a perfect cut either, just get the majority of the tab off. Enjoy your new amp!
  12. Those were the correct ones for me (MY'99) and I think they hold true thru MY'02 but might change w/ the MOST intro in '03. :)
  13. Sounds like it might be one of two usual suspsects: door latch or conv top guide wire..... depending on the noise. If it's a rattle..... probably door latch - if a ticking/slapping...... probably guide wire. Here's a good thread w/ info on both and how to test and fix. Rattle & Ticking Noise Over Shoulder ticking noise..... see posts 4, 15, 17 rattle noise...... see post 19 & 22 Now, if neither of those do the trick, it could be the old coin rattle...... In a small coupe like the Boxster, sounds are often hard to isolate...... I bring this up b/c if you don't have the non-smoker kit and use the ash tray to hold small items (like coins ;)), they can easily bounce out and drop down in the center console. Once there, they can get stuck under the shifter and cause gear engagement problems. Or, and more likely, they get lodged vertically against the side of the console and rattle and rattle and rattle. My PO left me a $2.50 rebate hidden in the console :rolleyes: which, for the most part, I wasn't able to completely cash in on until I installed my B&M SSK. You might pop up your shifter boot and ashtray (if applicable) and have a look. Good luck :)
  14. is the e-brake warning light coming on in the dash cluster? If not, you may have forgotten to reconnect the lead or the switch may be bad (or could just use a good cleaning. I'd start there
  15. I would give it an hour mainly for gaining access to the belt and reinstalling the cover and carpet. Otherwise, it is a really easy. Yep - definitely DIY and 1hr tops (10 minutes once you have access to front of engine). If you can't find a 24mm box or ratchet, you can also use 15/16" (which will be a bit easier to find). Save your old belt for an emergency and put a piece of tape on it showing belt direction. I threw mine in w/ the tool kit behind spare in front trunk. :)
  16. Yes - they are already included in the OEM harness. As such, I'd atleast use the remote turn on from h/u to wake up the aftermarket amp. You can choose to run a clean power source and ground if you like (might need based on power too).
  17. Martin- Sorry to hear you're still getting the run around. xenonmods also goes by ohvdecals on ebay for those interested
  18. According to the Bentley manual they are: FL- 20 FL+ 10 FR- 19 FR+ 9 SL- 8 SL+ 18 SR- 7 SR+ 17 RL- 16 RL+ 6 RR- 15 RR+ 5 F= Dash speaker, S = Side/Door speaker, R = rear speaker Pin #s are printed on wiring harness connector to amp (very very small). Once you use a pin extractor & get them out of the harness connector, you can always double check and test usuing a 9V battery.
  19. smaller plug at amp is input from h/u - larger one is output to speakers. IIRC there are some nuances by MY so best to reference Bentley manual for correct MY pin out. I'll check mine for you if you'd like.
  20. some have and have been happy w/ the results. Course of action somewhat depends on MY though. But before you throw good $ after bad.... know the biggest shortfall in the Boxster's sound system are the pathetic stock speakers. Pathetic is not the right word but I had to write something to get past the board's filter ;). They are small magnet paper cone junk from either Nokia or HAES. With good quality efficient drivers, 40W/ch from amp is good - not bass thumping loud enough to set off other's alarms but still very good. Personally, I'd start w/ new speakers allowing room (in their spec's) for an upgraded amp or h/u. If you want to upgrade the h/u now too for added functionality then by all means do but definitely do the speakers. Consider as well taking out the stock "tuned" ports in the doors and replacing w 6.5"/6.75"/6x9" drivers on wood baffles. There's a great sticky thread on upgrading the Boxster's sound system which has lot's of info on how to. Good luck :)
  21. Bill- any other strange electrical occurences happening? Based on what you post above, sounds like a classic case of the ignition switch (electrical portion) starting to go bad. Definitely a DIY for $20 or so. Here's a link to the p/N# and instructions. Scroll down to post #40 by Loren for instructions: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493
  22. Could be since you checked the other main culprits but it might still be EVAP canister. Anyhow, since you are a contributing member you can see/read TSBs. At the top of any page, click on DIY Menu and select Current TSBs submenu. Select Boxster 986 and type in the search box: fuel tank hose modification and you'll be able to see the TSB.
  23. On the CR/CDR-220, yes they have an option for the AUX-In which is what I presume you're refering to. It can be used for Sat Radio, MP3/iPod or what ever you want to play thru the stereo (from RCA inputs). You don't get any control of the device, it just allows you to play it thru the car's sound system w/out having to use a FM xmitter. I have it on mine and it works - P/N is: BNA-1319-116 and was something like $15 plus $5-10 S&H. You might also need a GLI (Ground Loop Isolator) if you power the accessory from the cars system as well (GLI eliminates alternator whine from being played thru the sound system caused by...... yep different grounding points of accessories). I think JBL or Scoche might also have something similarly available except it terminates into a std jack not female RCA plugs. Hope this helps :)
  24. Great to hear you're trouble free :) However, older versions of the AOS have proven to not be a question of if, but rather when. So definitely check yours out. If you have .00, .01 or even .02, I'd replace as a preventative; and with 70K on your clock sooner rather than later. From what I've read/heard/seen - 50K seems to be the "average" life span (of the older versions .01 - less for .00). Yes most people catch a bad AOS and replace it w/o any problems - especially when just the bellows leak. Others have had catastrophic engine failure casued by a bad AOS. When the AOS fails internally, it creates a vacuum which sucks oil mist (when you're lucky) into the cylinder as opposed to dropping it back into the crankcase. When the vacuum is strong enough it will fill the entire cylinder w/ oil. Since oil does not compress like gasoline... you guessed it - lot's of things get bent/crushed/ruined :eek: The DIY is easy - takes under 2 hours if you're the slightest bit mechanically. Parts run (as of last summer) $100-110 from Sunset or Suncoast. Dealer repair has been recorded anywhere from $500-800+. Your car and your call but again I'd recommend r&r as preventative (like the polyrib belt) unless your looking for an excuse to do a transplant B)
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