jpc763

Have you a diy on this?

Fairly certain you have a micro-switch problem mentioned by crwarren11 above. I have the same issue but mine shows up using Durametric.

8N1-837-016-C

I ended up buying a replacement Porsche part and installed it over the weekend. So far it has worked perfectly. No double beep!

It sounds like it.

 

I've read on some boards that the Jetta (2006-2010) MK5 door lock mechanism is the same part. OEM VW parts are less than $50 USD shipped. Part number 3D1 837 016 AC or 1TD 837 016 A.

 

Perhaps someone else has seen or tried this and can chime in.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

The Jetta lock for 2006 is the same part as a 2001?

John

Sorry, you can get those faults by hitting the lock button before the door is closed or before the door is closed completely and the window is up.

As I said before I think you should clear all the codes and then re-test.

After lunch today I hooked up the durametric and was able to see faults again so I rant the test requested.

Here are 3 images.

Yesterday

Today after clearing faults and pressing lock/unlock

Again after another test of pressing lock/unlock

Anything conclusive from this?

I received a response from Durametric.  They asked me to generate logs while I checked the Alarm and sure enough it worked this time.

I took a screen capture of the logs and then pressed clear logs.  Once that operation was complete, I was back to my problem of no data.

Here is a shot of the March 3 Alarm Codes

Here is a shot of the March 9 Alarm Codes

Note that 3 of them (circled in red) have incremented in the last 6 days.

Code 47 has incremented by 2

Code 61 has incremented by 4

Code 33 has incremented by 1

I will check again today but the lock system has been behaving itself (although this morning I could not lock the car with the lock button on the key head  :cursing: )

I am again at the point where I think that replacing the door lock is my next logical step.

John

It is my understanding that the yellow are Alarm Fault Codes that are currently not present (STATUS - not present) and the red are fault codes that are currently present. (STATUS - present)

Both yellow and red have the number of times they have occurred (occurance). You fix the red ones to turn them to yellow and the yellow cannot be cleared/erased.

Fault Code 33 and Code 34 passenger side are the interior infrared sensor located above rear view mirror.

Fault code 34 - Passenger compartment monitoring sensor, short circuit to B+ or faulty

Possible cause of fault

- Short circuit to voltage in the wiring between the alarm system control module and the passenger compartment monitoring sensor

- Passenger compartment monitoring sensor faulty

Fault code 46 - Central locking synchronization

Possible cause of fault

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks

- Door lock faulty

Fault code 60 - Central locking limit position - locked not reached

Possible cause of fault

- Switch for central locking faulty

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, switch for central locking or door locks

- Driver’s/passenger’s door lock faulty

- Control module faulty

Does Durametric order the fault codes by recent occurrence?

Looking at the occurrence numbers

Fault 47-51 times

Fault 61-109 times

All other codes are 1-4 times.

The problem I have happens a LOT.

Would replacing door lock mechanism be a logical next step?

John

Well I thought I had solved my Durametric problems.  I am back to a blank sheet (before resetting codes).  For some reason, it will not read the codes.  Back on the phone to Durametric.

Yes, they will stay in the alarm control module until cleared.

Whether Durametric is working or not two beeps is always an alarm system fault. One beep is a just an open zone.

I called Durametric and determined what the issue was.  I now have codes!  I did not clear anything as I wanted to get input.

Here is the list.

I know why code 54 is there but what do the other codes tell?

John

If you have two beeps then there IS a fault.

Sorry, but you will likely need a Porsche diagnostic tool to see it since Durametric does not.

I assume that alarm faults will stay in the OBC until cleared.

Thanks, John

If you get a double beep then you have an alarm zone fault.

Durametric, Porsche PST2, or PIWIS can tell you exactly where the fault is.

I highly suggest you use one of those to further diagnose - otherwise you are just guessing and that can get expensive.

I've got the double beep with switch light remaining problem, too, and think I have the part to replace the existing problem part.

Just an FYI, this winter I've noticed that the problem does not occur in cold weather. One day when it was still cold I parked the car where the sun hit the driver door for an hour and the problem reoccurred.

Whatever the circuit that's broken in the mechanism, it's a pretty small break I think!

What part do you have? Door lock mechanism?

Were you able to check for any fault codes with a Durametric?

Are you having any problems with the passenger door window not dropping properly?

Or the Central Locking Switch? (The central Locking switch is the top right black rocker switch on the dash center console)

Or just a double beep when locking the car?

Passenger door is the problem. The central locking switch works. The problem is intermittent.

I know it will occur when the red light on the rocker is lit and the double beep when unlocking.

I have never gotten a fault code from the durametric. It always show clear.

What alarm problems are you having?

Alarm Issues http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/48953-Alarm-Issues

John

All,

I have decided to replace the door lock mechanism and the window microswitch on my passenger door in order to try to eliminate my alarm system problems. I have a thread here and on 968forum and pretty much it seems that the problem is with the microswitches, probably the window one, but possibly the door lock ones.

So, I looked on Pelican and they have the part number as 8N1-837-016-C-VAG. A quick search on that shows it is a shared part with Audi TT (and others) and possibly Volkswagons as well.

Is that accurate?

Thanks, John

Well I'm back with the same problem. We have had good weather here so the box is getting some miles.

I left work and unlocked the Box. Two beeps. So I got in, dropped the top and drove home. The alarm light was on. At a light I put the window down and back up. No change at all. I opened the passenger door and closed it and the light went off.

Just more data.

Update - I have not done anything to the car. I was out of town.

Yesterday I had no problems at all. The light stayed off almost the whole time I drove the car.

The only time the light went on was while the passenger window was dropping. It flashed on/off a few times as the window dropped from closed to fully open.

Could a micro-switch do this without throwing a fault?

 

 

A single beep signifies an open zone - so that is likely your aftermarket radio.

If you had a CDR220 prior to replacement you will need to remove and tape the brown wire with the blue stripe.

Thanks. Could that be a contributor to my issue?

 

 

Yes, depending on whether the aftermarket radio is sending a signal on that wire.

Either way it is best to disconnect that wire and tape it.

 

Your are talking about this wire, correct?

Brown/Blue - Common Audio Ground - Yellow Connector C " Pin 3

I need to remove that from the connector and tape it?

Thanks, John

A single beep signifies an open zone - so that is likely your aftermarket radio.

If you had a CDR220 prior to replacement you will need to remove and tape the brown wire with the blue stripe.

Well the carpet is bone dry.

Today the alarm light was off for my drive into work, about 20 minutes but was on for my whole drive at lunch.

One note that I realize I have not shared.

I have replaced the stereo and now get a single beep when I lock the car.

I have only had the car for a year (13 months).  It has actually been doing the problem since I got it but it has gotten worse over the past 13 months.

Given that, I cannot say if the Alarm control box got wet.  I assume that I need to remove the seat to check, correct?

Thanks, John

Today's update.

It was suggested to test to see if the alternator is charging the battery.  I tested this morning and with the car off, the battery read 12.7 - 12.9 and with the car idling it read 14.2-14.4.

So the alternator and voltage regulator seems to be OK.

I have not tried the troubleshooting steps from Pelican parts.

John

Durametric or Porsche PS2 or PIWIS will tell you exactly where the fault(s) are.

There is a lot of work (and cost) with guessing.

That is part of my problem.  I am attaching my Durametric Alarm report.  No faults at all.

Based on the issues with the window not going down, I'd say to check the door/window switch that indicates to the car if the door is open or closed.  Sorry I don't recall off-hand the p/n, but I will look into it further and post what I find.  It sounds to me like the car doesn't know that the door is open/closed...but it thinks that the door is open which is why the alarm is beeping during arming.  A closed door would typically make the window go up; the open door would make it drop.  Is the window at the fully closed position or in the "open door" position (~1" drop)?

Thanks for your reply.

The window is fully closed.  I end up dropping the window manually to allow the passenger to get into the car when the top is up.