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ScottArizona
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Everything posted by ScottArizona
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Loren, I will do that tonight after I get home from work. Thanks!
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A while back I posted a message about whether an oil pan gasket change was a DIY. Loren suggested a thorough cleaning to verify that the pan was in fact the source of the leak. Well, I am glad I took his advice, as the pan is not leaking and I was able to locate the source of the leak. However, I've searched the archives and can't find any info on this leak. The leak is coming from the very first bolt that appears to connect the two halves of the engine case (I'm not sure this terminology is correct) immediately forward (towards the nose of the car) from the oil pan. There are a series of bolts in this area that seem to keep the two halves together (becuase there is a seam runing between them). Again, this is the first bolt and is relatively small (10 mm bolt) and I can see after the car is warmed up the head of the bolt begins to seep a very small amount of oil. I thought that before I got under there and just started tightening I'd aks the group to see if this is a known leak and whether torquing it down would do any good. I'm thinking the other alternative would be to drain the engine oil, remove the bolt, apply some RTV, and then re-insert? What would you guys do? does anyone have the torq specs for this bolt. Thanks so much, Scott.
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I took off my engine protection plate the other day to change my oil and noticed the entire underside of the oil pan was smeared with dirty oil (never saw any drips, as they appeared to collect, gum up, and stay put on the protection plate). RMS is clean (I've got a tiptronic), and it looks like I'm having seepage where the pan meets the case. Two questions: 1) is this a common leak on 996's (1999 c2 tip)? 2) is this an easy DIY fix? Thanks, Scott.
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Thanks for all the responses guys. And a special thanks to Izzy for going out of his way to alert me to a possible source of my coolant loss. What a great board. Scott.
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Izzy, Wouldn't you know it, I have a tiptronic too. I'd be very interested in hearing about your experience!
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Thanks for that thoughtful reply. I suspect you are right, as I too have seen the level fluctuate a bit, even without driving the car. Also, good point about air still escaping the system and causing the levels to fluctuate. After I replaced the tank I don't think I properly "burped" the system as I recall feeling frustrated that I couldn't get the car hot enough (mostly because I was unwilling to "free rev" the engine per the instructions) to get all the radiators opened up completely and all the fans to come on. This suspicion was confirmed a few months ago, on the first real hot day of the year, when I had the coolant level drop enough to get my light to come on on a very hot and humid day filled with a bunch of stop and go driving. When that happened I stopped the car, checked the level, gave it enough coolant to take it back above the min. line, and it has been holding fairly steady since (in hot weather no less). Given that my car actually runs pretty cool (I have never seen it run much past the 180 mark), I chalked this episode up to the fact that I had probably not burped the system properly and it was very hot that day. I think I'll stop checking the coolant level everyday.
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O.k., so I recently replaced the coolant tank and cap (updated to the '01 cap) in my 99 C2. This was a few months back. I have religously watched the coolant level in the tank since then and all has been fine, until recently. I had previously makred the EXACT coolant level on the tank with a sharpie, and monitored the level that way. Recently I noticed that the level, when completely cold, is a few milimeters below my mark. Now, I know this is not alot, but as you can imagine, with a 99 I fear the dreaded porous block issue. The car runs great, and is just below 60k miles. I eecently changed the oil and the oil did not appear to be "watered down" or to have any hint of coolant (should I have it tested?). So, what could be the cause of this loss. It has been very hot lately in Arizona (Phoenix). I've heard, however, that the coolant system is "closed," and that a properly operating system should not therefore lose ANY coolant. Please tell me I'm wrong. I can handle tank replacements, busted hoses, or bad tank caps, but please tell me an engine replacement is not in my future. Any comments would be appreciated. Scott.
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Thanks for the advice. I will check the battery levels. Forgot to mention that the ignition switch was replaced 6 mos. ago, so that is probably not the problem.
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The sticker on the battery says 2005. But I am in Arizona and the prior owner indicated that the car had not been driven for a couple of months before he began driving it again just before I bought it.
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Hello there. I've had my 1999 c2 coupe now for a few weeks and I've noticed that if I'm running errands or doing a lot of stop and go traffic, and then go to restart the car when the engine is still warm, sometimes it cranks a bit slow. I usually end up turning the key back to off and then turning it to the on position and holding it there until the car starts. It doesn't really take a long time to start, but definately longer than normal, which is why I notice it. This has happened a few times. The battery is showing a full charge. Is this normal? If not, what are the possible causes? thanks, Scott.
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Hello 996 Folks
ScottArizona replied to cyclocross's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I went from a 2.5 boxster, to a boxster s, and now a 99 c2 tip (I've had the 911 for two weeks now). Believe it or not, I actually feel that the 911 is more "planted" in corners than was the boxster. Perhaps this is not the case when the 911 is pushed to the limit (I've never pushed it hard enough to get the rear weight bias pendulum effect), but in everyday spirted driving, I actually feel that the 911 handles better. Some other observations. 0-60 in the tip 911 seems about as fast (maybe a bit faster) than the boxster s I had (which was a six speed) (even though the published 0-60 time for the 99 tip 911 is a few tenths slower than the published boxster s time), but the real difference is what the 911 can do at high speeds. That thing absolutely pulls above 80 mph when you slam the pedal, really nice torque at that level, and seems to literaly throw you up past 100 mph in no time (I never got that sensation in the boxster s). I also love the extra room and increased visability in the 911 (I have a coupe), and of course the styling. I think boxsters look great, but there is just something about a 911 that lookes downright wicked (it gets much more attention than my boxsters ever got). I'm really having fun getting to know my car. -
Coolant level issue
ScottArizona replied to siddharth's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I just reinstalled mine tonight (after recieving new tank, cap, and sensor from sunset, also at an awesome savings!). Mine took a little wiggling to get back in, but since I already had the air pump out it was not too bad. About an hour of work, start to finish. I'm off to drive with the bleed valve open. Hopefully you'll be up and running soon. Good luck. Scott. -
Thanks Loren. The new tank, cap and sensor should arrive tonight. I will check the lamp to see if it is burned out.
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Coolant level issue
ScottArizona replied to siddharth's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Kinda ironic how the "new" style seems to have much more "coolant crud" (indicating more coolant pass by) than the older version. -
I posted this question in a reply to the below post, but realized I probably should ask it in a new post so as to not hijack the thread. So here it is: when I had my ppi done on my 99 996 c2 the coolant was a quart low, but there was no coolant light flashing to indicate this. On my boxster the coolant light would flash if the coolant level was just a little under the "min" mark. Is there a way to check the functionality of the dash coolant light? Could it just be that my sensor was bad (a new one is on route, just for good measure). My fear is that someone in the past tinkered with the system to try and mask a larger problem (like a blown head gasket!). Any input would be great. Thanks, Scott.
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Coolant level issue
ScottArizona replied to siddharth's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Funny, I've got my coolant tank out right now too. I would not have noticed a crack at all (showed up as a very small dark line, mabye one or two centimeters long), if it had not been for the small amount of crusty coolant that surrounded it. I too had trouble getting mine out, and ended up actually removing the air pump thing instead of just tying it back as in the DIY on this site, that seemed to help. While mine is out I am also changing the sensor for good measure (only about 10 bucks at sunset) and the cap (I too have the '00 cap). My question is this: mine was a quart low when I had the ppi done, but the coolant light never once flashed? makes me wonder if someone disabled the bulb to mask a problem? I really hope that is not the case, because I've seen 996's that had chronic coolant light flashing that turned out to be a head gasket. -
Good point. Given that the published 0-60 time for the boxster S is comfortably under six seconds, I'm sure the lack of an expert driver with no regard for possible abuse to the car accounts for the fact that the 996 tip thoroughly thrashed the boxster.
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Thanks Loren. The 6 second figure just seems off to me. Maybe its just my unflappable devotion to this car (even after a coolant tank problem on my second day of ownership!). Or maybe it is just the "seat of the pants" impression that makes me think it is faster. It just seems sooo much faster than the boxster s six speed, and several other cars I have driven with published 0-60 times under six seconds. Scott.
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Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what the 0-60 and quarter mile times for a 99 tiptronic coupe (c2) would be. I've searched the net but can't find a whole lot of info. I've seen 6 seconds thrown around, but can't believe a 99 tip is not a bit faster than six seconds (that's getting close to base boxster acceleration!). I currently own a boxster S and a 996 tip, and in a race with my buddies 99 996 cab (before I got my own 996), the 99 tip cab absolutely spanked the boxster s (although much of that could have very well been my poor driving). It was not even close. I know the factory is always a bit conservative with its 0-62 times, but does anyone know what the "real" numbers are for this car. (Also, what did the mags get when the car came out, R & T always seems to do much better than the porsche numbers). Thanks, Scott.
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Hello all, I am the proud owner of a new to me 99 c2 coupe. I've owned a boxster, a boxster s and now a new zenith blue 911, and I couldn't be more impressed and stoked with this car. Can't wait to participate on these forums. Anyhow, I've got a favor to ask. I notice a few drops of coolant behind the rear driver's side exhaust. So I investigate and instead of a coolant tank leak (been there done that with the boxster), I'm thinking I might have just had a coolant sensor that was not fully inserted. the reason for this suspicion is that when I looked at the sensor there appeared to be crusty coolant residue in that area and the sensor end was pointing in a more or less four o'clock orientation (if you are looking down at the tank and engine fromt the top). so I pushed it to a three o'clock orientation and heard an audible click (so now, if looking from the top, the sensor end is basically in line with the rear axle, pointing to the passenger side of the car). So here is my question: is this position the loose position (i.e., the coolant-will-spew-everywhere-if-I-turn on-the-car-position, or is it the tight, correct position. If someone could take a quick glance of this area of their engine and confirm that my position is or is not correct, I'd be super appreciative. I'm hoping that this was my problem, but thought I'd inquire of the board before I turn the car on to test my hypothesis. Thanks. (pictures coming soon!). Scott.