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thatsjeek
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Everything posted by thatsjeek
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Curious about this, it would fail a compression test, right? Pulled the engine and re-set the timing, I double checked before putting it back in. I put some fresh gas in and went to try to start and the cranking sound is identical to the video and still will not start. No fault codes on durametric and battery is newer and has been kept on the trickle charger. Wondering what other diagnostics or other things I can try. Might be calling uncle soon and look to sell as a project to someone that will bring a fresh perspective and energy, but I do have a little bit more fight in me to get this running 🤞 -
Whoops not sure what I did wrong, but I uploaded it to youtube to see if that works better:
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Alright wow it's really been a while! I got the timing fixed and now got everything back in the car and now it's making a bit of a different noise. Sharing a video of trying to start in case it sounds familiar to someone. No faults on the durametric I did put new gas in, but not sure if there's old gas that is in the fuel lines still that could be causing the problem? I also got new spark plugs to try that in case the ones in there have gummed up. Does this cranking noise sound familiar to anyone indicating a known fix? Thanks in advance! 996-crank-no-start.mov
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Hi all, Finally got a new LN intermediate shaft and engine put back together! Now trying to start the engine and it won’t start, but getting some popping noises and exhaust coming out, like some cylinders are maybe firing. Attached is a video of the noise. Anyone possibly know what might be going on based on the noises? IMG_1944.mov
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Well looks like you guys nailed it! Attached a video where the shaft spins without the sprocket. Does it make sense to just find a used intermediate shaft? Or is it really simple to pin it? trim.1AC49A5C-F260-493A-BEB3-A26B043DD49B.MOV
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OK so I split the case, everything looks normal in here (as far as I can tell). Anything in particular I should be looking for or a way to tell if I have a slipped gear? [Edit]: Everything was turning and rotating just fine with the cylinder heads off (including all three chains attached to IMS)
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They were in the block after I removed the cylinder head (sorry for the confusion!) My next step is to look more closely at the IMS. Shards of water pump impeller. Well that's very interesting! Must be from a previous water pump, since mine has metal impellers!
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Been a long time! Got more of the engine taken apart. All the chains seem to be fine and intact. Something possibly noteworthy: Found some small black pieces of hard plastic when I got one of the cylinder heads off (see attachment)
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You guys are awesome. Quick replies and very helpful! I ordered camshaft tools. I'll post back with status after I get the tools and take a look to see what's happening inside my poor engine.
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Alright so I was able to do some more investigating today. I took the flywheel off and wanted to take a peak at the IMS bearing. I took the IMSB cover off and left the bearing in place, but took the rubber seal off to look inside the bearing. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the IMS bearing looks OK! (See attachment) With the rubber seal off and the cover off, I turned the crank a little bit and watched the IMS bearing. It was moving in what seemed to be in a normal way (as normal as it can without the cover holding it in place). This is telling me that the chain between the crank and the IMS seems to be OK. I also took one of the oil pumps off and watched to see if it rotated with the crank. It does not. So summary: When turning the crankshaft Camshafts don't rotate Oil pump (on the left side) doesn't rotate IMS seems to rotate just fine
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Alright, took your advice and watched the cams as I rotate the crank and I think a found the problem (well, a problem)! The cams aren't rotating as I turn the crank and the I can see that the intake valves aren't moving (as confirmation that the cams aren't rotating).
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I wasn't even thinking and for some reason I thought I could test for spark with the engine out, but I'm not really sure if that is possible (is it?). I completely left out a very important piece of information: I was convinced it was a catastrophic engine failure so I dropped the engine to get a better look. Now regretting taking the engine out before posting here! Everything is still assembled except I did just remove the intake manifold and it looks like the cylinders are completely flooded with fuel. Not sure what to make of that since it could be caused by me trying to start the car over the past few weeks. In any case, if anyone has any suggestions for things I can/should check while the engine is dropped before it goes back in, that would be much appreciated, although I don't mind putting the engine back in to do some more testing.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Actually, it seems rather odd that both sensor would go out at the same time, sounds more electrical or electronic in nature. I would start looking at the wiring harness for the sensors to make sure something has not come adrift or shorted out. I would also disconnect the sensors and check them for possible shorts as well. Thanks! I had a feeling that it was odd that both would go out. I'll check the wiring harness and the sensors themselves. I've checked all the fuses and all are OK. The fuel pump will run every once in a while when I turned the ignition to on. I am also able to run the fuel pump manually by using the durametric software and it sounds normal. I have not checked spark yet, I will try that and post back with results. Thanks again!
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Hi everyone, I'm brand new to Porsche and am stuck and thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any advice! The car is a 1999 Carrera 2 with 3.4L. The engine cranks but doesn't start. I ordered the Durametric and while waiting for it to arrive I decided to to some basic tests: - Checked fuel relay and DME relay and those both seem to be OK. - I removed and tested the Crankshaft sensor with a multimeter and it was OK. - Changed the oil and inspected the oil/filter for metal specks (to check for IMS failure) and oil was clean and no signs of metal flakes on the filter. Finally the Durametric arrived and came up with 2 Fault codes: - P0341 Camshaft sensor bank 1 Short to B+ - P1397 Camshaft sensor bank 2 Short to ground I also did Actual values for Camshaft bank 1 and the value was 0 (Also read here that the bank 2 values don't show up in the Durametric software for MY99) Is it common for both sensors to go bad at the same time like this or could it be a sign of a much bigger problem? Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated!
