thatsjeek

On 10/16/2021 at 7:56 PM, hardtailer said:

Perhaps the valves did get bent when the pistons hit them ever so slightly the very moment the drive to the camshaft failed when the sprocket slipped on the IMS?

Curious about this, it would fail a compression test, right? 

On 9/29/2021 at 4:19 PM, JFP in PA said:

It is turning over unevenly, like it has compression some of the time and not others.  Are you absolutely sure the cam timing is correct?

 

Pulled the engine and re-set the timing, I double checked before putting it back in.  I put some fresh gas in and went to try to start and the cranking sound is identical to the video and still will not start.

No fault codes on durametric and battery is newer and has been kept on the trickle charger.  Wondering what other diagnostics or other things I can try. 

Might be calling uncle soon and look to sell as a project to someone that will bring a fresh perspective and energy, but I do have a little bit more fight in me to get this running 🤞

21 hours ago, Loren said:

 

Sorry you did not attach the video - the link is dead.

Whoops not sure what I did wrong, but I uploaded it to youtube to see if that works better:

On 12/23/2017 at 11:54 PM, Ahsai said:

Thanks for the update. I've completely forgotten about this thread. The cranking does not sound right at all and I have no idea about the popping noise. Have you verified timing on both banks. Many cases of non-start after rebuild was due to wrong timing...ppl forgot to rotate the crank 360 before timing the other bank. The engine ends up having 2 cylinders on opposite bank going through the same compression stroke and will be hard to crank (in addition to running on only 3 cylinders).

Alright wow it's really been a while! I got the timing fixed and now got everything back in the car and now it's making a bit of a different noise.

Sharing a video of trying to start in case it sounds familiar to someone.

• No faults on the durametric
• I did put new gas in, but not sure if there's old gas that is in the fuel lines still that could be causing the problem? 
• I also got new spark plugs to try that in case the ones in there have gummed up.

Does this cranking noise sound familiar to anyone indicating a known fix?

Thanks in advance!

Hi all, 

Finally got a new LN intermediate shaft and engine put back together!

Now trying to start the engine and it won’t start, but getting some popping noises and exhaust coming out, like some cylinders are maybe firing. 

Attached is a video of the noise. 

Anyone possibly know what might be going on based on the noises?

IMG_1944.mov

Well looks like you guys nailed it! Attached a video where the shaft spins without the sprocket.

Does it make sense to just find a used intermediate shaft? Or is it really simple to pin it?

trim.1AC49A5C-F260-493A-BEB3-A26B043DD49B.MOV

OK so I split the case, everything looks normal in here (as far as I can tell).  Anything in particular I should be looking for or a way to tell if I have a slipped gear?

[Edit]:  Everything was turning and rotating just fine with the cylinder heads off (including all three chains attached to IMS)

Thanks for the update and glad to see your progress. The big piece looks like the water pump impeller but it seems too big to be found inside the head. Where exactly did you find those pieces? Are all 5 chains intact? If they are, that sounds like the IMS sprocket(s) is slipping.

They were in the block after I removed the cylinder head (sorry for the confusion!)  My next step is to look more closely at the IMS. 

 

Been a long time! Got more of the engine taken apart. All the chains seem to be fine and intact.

 

Something possibly noteworthy:

Found some small black pieces of hard plastic when I got one of the cylinder heads off (see attachment)

 

Shards of water pump impeller.

 

Well that's very interesting! Must be from a previous water pump, since mine has metal impellers!

Been a long time! Got more of the engine taken apart. All the chains seem to be fine and intact.

Something possibly noteworthy:

Found some small black pieces of hard plastic when I got one of the cylinder heads off (see attachment)

You guys are awesome.  Quick replies and very helpful!

I ordered camshaft tools.  I'll post back with status after I get the tools and take a look to see what's happening inside my poor engine.

Alright so I was able to do some more investigating today.  

I took the flywheel off and wanted to take a peak at the IMS bearing.

I took the IMSB cover off and left the bearing in place, but took the rubber seal off to look inside the bearing.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the IMS bearing looks OK!  (See attachment)

With the rubber seal off and the cover off, I turned the crank a little bit and watched the IMS bearing. It was moving in what seemed to be in a normal way (as normal as it can without the cover holding it in place).  This is telling me that the chain between the crank and the IMS seems to be OK.

I also took one of the oil pumps off and watched to see if it rotated with the crank. It does not.  

So summary:  

When turning the crankshaft

• Camshafts don't rotate
• Oil pump (on the left side) doesn't rotate
• IMS seems to rotate just fine

Since you already have the engine dropped, you may as well verify timing of both cams by removing the cam plugs and rotate the crank by hand and see if anything binds? If not, do a leak down test/ compression test on each cylinder to make sure there's compression. I assume you already checked for coolant in oil and vise vera?

I'm not of aware of any ways to test for sparks with the engine dropped and all sensors/coils disconnected from the DME.

Alright, took your advice and watched the cams as I rotate the crank and I think a found the problem (well, a problem)!

The cams aren't rotating as I turn the crank and the I can see that the intake valves aren't moving (as confirmation that the cams aren't rotating).  

+1 and also check fuses C1 to C4 and verify the fuel pump is running. Next is to verify sparks.

I wasn't even thinking and for some reason I thought I could test for spark with the engine out, but I'm not really sure if that is possible (is it?).  I completely left out a very important piece of information: I was convinced it was a catastrophic engine failure so I dropped the engine to get a better look.  Now regretting taking the engine out before posting here!

Everything is still assembled except I did just remove the intake manifold and it looks like the cylinders are completely flooded with fuel.  Not sure what to make of that since it could be caused by me trying to start the car over the past few weeks. 

In any case, if anyone has any suggestions for things I can/should check while the engine is dropped before it goes back in, that would be much appreciated, although I don't mind putting the engine back in to do some more testing.

 

Hi everyone, I'm brand new to Porsche and am stuck and thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any advice!

 

The car is a 1999 Carrera 2 with 3.4L.  The engine cranks but doesn't start.

 

I ordered the Durametric and while waiting for it to arrive I decided to to some basic tests:

- Checked fuel relay and DME relay and those both seem to be OK.

- I removed and tested the Crankshaft sensor with a multimeter and it was OK.

- Changed the oil and inspected the oil/filter for metal specks (to check for IMS failure) and oil was clean and no signs of metal flakes on the filter.

 

 

Finally the Durametric arrived and came up with 2 Fault codes:

- P0341 Camshaft sensor bank 1 Short to B+

- P1397 Camshaft sensor bank 2 Short to ground

 

I also did Actual values for Camshaft bank 1 and the value was 0 (Also read here that the bank 2 values don't show up in the Durametric software for MY99)

 

Is it common for both sensors to go bad at the same time like this or could it be a sign of a much bigger problem?

 

Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

 

Actually, it seems rather odd that both sensor would go out at the same time, sounds more electrical or electronic in nature.  I would start looking at the wiring harness for the sensors to make sure something has not come adrift or shorted out.  I would also disconnect the sensors and check them for possible shorts as well.

 

Thanks!  I had a feeling that it was odd that both would go out. I'll check the wiring harness and the sensors themselves.   

+1 and also check fuses C1 to C4 and verify the fuel pump is running. Next is to verify sparks.

I've checked all the fuses and all are OK.  The fuel pump will run every once in a while when I turned the ignition to on.  I am also able to run the fuel pump manually by using the durametric software and it sounds normal.

I have not checked spark yet, I will try that and post back with results.  Thanks again!

Hi everyone, I'm brand new to Porsche and am stuck and thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any advice!

The car is a 1999 Carrera 2 with 3.4L.  The engine cranks but doesn't start.

I ordered the Durametric and while waiting for it to arrive I decided to to some basic tests:

- Checked fuel relay and DME relay and those both seem to be OK.

- I removed and tested the Crankshaft sensor with a multimeter and it was OK.

- Changed the oil and inspected the oil/filter for metal specks (to check for IMS failure) and oil was clean and no signs of metal flakes on the filter.

Finally the Durametric arrived and came up with 2 Fault codes:

- P0341 Camshaft sensor bank 1 Short to B+

- P1397 Camshaft sensor bank 2 Short to ground

I also did Actual values for Camshaft bank 1 and the value was 0 (Also read here that the bank 2 values don't show up in the Durametric software for MY99)

Is it common for both sensors to go bad at the same time like this or could it be a sign of a much bigger problem?

Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated!