kon5t

You obviously don't have anything to add to the conversation. Why do you keep replying?

Wow, now you are getting rude. I have already told you that you are wasting your time, it comes out the bottom, what else do you want?

 

 

I've read that if you remove the idler pulley above the water pump you can remove the pump from the top. This is supposed to be easier than removing it from the bottom.  If I take that approach can I skip the steps for removing the engine bracket below it?

How about if I'm also replacing the thermostat and housing?

Have a full read of this thread, you will find many tips on changing the waterpump, taking it out the top is not one of them

 

 

I have read this thread. I've also read elsewhere that taking it out through the top is much easier. I'm looking for information from someone who has done this.

 

And if you find someone they will have a serious penchant for S&M, take it out the bottom.

I've read that if you remove the idler pulley above the water pump you can remove the pump from the top. This is supposed to be easier than removing it from the bottom.  If I take that approach can I skip the steps for removing the engine bracket below it?

How about if I'm also replacing the thermostat and housing?

Have a full read of this thread, you will find many tips on changing the waterpump, taking it out the top is not one of them

Well that was a fun 4 hours of my life. All is easy except that one last bolt........ I invented a new swear vocabulary for Porsche today, for that one bolt.

Also pay attention to which bolt comes from where, I had two that were longer than the rest which took some trial and error to workout. 

Also, take the pump out the bottom, it comes out easily once the thermostat and the other pipes have been moved out of the way.
 

****---___IMPORTANT___---****

the pump comes out the bottom, and you have to unbolt some extra lines to make it come out easily. Do not be lazy, undo all the lines, you will save an hour!

Kon5t, go back and reread my posting that you seem concerned about. Notice I said the experience wasn't mine. Note also the understated language I used compared to the original and the comment at the end about the sample size. 

 

Threads were on pedro's and 986forum. I stripped out the sensationalism and product loyalty.

 

Judge for yourself the meanings of that mechanic's experience.

 

(When I see a posting that is of interest and/or is contrary to the PR, I bring it to the attention of folks so it may be examined. I don't make up things, nor do I ever intentionally post BS. If personal attacks cause us to learn less about experiences that contradict our opinions, we have all lost.)

Yeah you are probably right, looks like my internet balls were a bit fierce last night, now how do I delete those posts?

I am really just trying to understand whether it was a dodgy install, the product or another factor that just happened to be solved. If it was the camshaft timing that was off, it would suggest to me that someone did not install the product properly, allowing for some play with the IMS. It is of course very difficult to confirm any conclusions without being there and working on the actual car yourself. 

LN advises that the DOF should not be used with their bearings.

 

The DOF also requires a special bearing in dual row engines per a recent posting by Pedro. It requires a shaved bearing whose race is of a different size and lacks the outer seal of the original. Failure to remove the seal seemed to create problems when using a DOF per a recent post on 286forum by a mechanic who was trying to figure out why a car had valve train issues. Problems went away when the DOF was removed with no other changes. Problems also were not present when another manufacturer's IMS was installed and the DOF was not used. No research as to why, just problem in car fixed. As frequently, sample size of one.

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Good luck with the repair.