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Interesting - I have an early 2000 and this just started to happen (door unlock works, trunk does not). I changed the battery recently. I wonder if I need the dealer re-code. Again, good to know if dealers are charging for this kind of work.
Backing out this morning, whenever I get past half a turn on the steering wheel, the front wheels seem to be jumping slightly - like a big alignment issue. the more I turn, the more it happens Stering whell feels normal, normal driving seems ok. I will go for an alignment check. Before I do, anything obvious to check? No work has been performed on the car and no accidents - can something like an allignment error just happen overnight? Thanks, Mark.
Thank you, No other internal maintenance done since the last water pump replacement. Could it also be the AOS on the way out? It has been 30K since last replacement. Wondering too if I should check the spark plug tubes? thinking of all the places higher up the engine that could have an oil seal that goes bad without showing itself.....
Thank you. Looks like the suggestion is water pump or tank. Was this related to the picture of the gunk in the cap? I changed my water pump about 20K miles ago - failed on the bearings and broke fragments off the fins (black plastic). That was at 43K miles. I'll check it through again. Water level looks normal (I check it every month and it is right between high and low as normal. I was also wondering about the oil/water heat exchanger. Maybe I have two problems? - one causing gunk and the other causing the fragments? thank in advance. Mark.
Boxster / 2000 / 2.7 / Manual / US Changed my oil on the 3000 mile mark this weekend. Everything smooth until I took a look at the drain pan and found some small bits of either rubber or silicone like material. Much more of this in the oil filter. Also some gunk on the oil cap. Pictures attached. Smaller bits appear slightly green. The longer segment shown on the black oil pan is about 1/2 inch and mustard colour (both colours may be affected by oil of course). This longer peice is slightly stretchy but breaks easily. Coolant level is at normal. Regular 8.75 quarts came out of the engine so looks like it is not taking in additional fluid. Anyone seen this kind of thing in the oil before? Pointers to where I should look first? Thanks, Mark.
Thanks Loren, All checked through OK and the light went away this morning. Also I am getting 13.5ohms across the actuator pins. Does this sound right? Perhaps bad connection (though at 1 amp (~12v/~13ohms) seems strange). Thanks, Mark.
Thanks - I checked the wiring last night. I got 13 ohms across the solenoid. Took a while to get a reading on the +12V on the solenoid connector but eventually got battery voltage (11.87V) Put it all back together and the light disappeared this morning. May have nudged something or maybe just takes a while to re-register the fault. All said, the replacement work is postponed until I see the light come back on. Thanks for advice about the clamp. I was thinking an alternative simple build would be a peice of L shaped aluminuim from teh local store and use short steel bolts at 4.5" spacing through self tapped holes in the aluminuim. Cut away the parts of the L bracket that interfere with the cam housing. That way avoiding welding equipment (which I don't have). Easier to work Aluminuim with saw and files.. What do you think? M
For the holder, how much pressure does this need to bear. Seems like you could make it out of hardwood and dowels. Am I dreaming? Do the two dowels fit into slots in the cam shaft or just press against the ends? Thanks for your help - looks like I have a solenoid replacement job this w/e. Getting P1341 (DME 7.2).
Looks like it is bad. Fault code came back. Is this easy to access to change out? Through the wheel arch / top or through service cover? The diagrams don't make it clear whether I need to remove the cam cover to replace the solenoid which would add a few hours to the job. I saw the other post of removing the cover to replace the tensioner. Also one other thing - any advice on how to test it really is the solenoid and not the tensioner? Is there an electrical test I can do easily? Thanks for advice, Mark.
Boxster 2000, 2.7 Manual. Slight stutter while pressing on the accelerator in 2nd gear turn (regular, not agressive) CIL goes on. OBD reports P1341 Cleared fault code, drove home normally (again, regular street, not agressive driving) , no light yet. How concerned should I be? Thanks in anticipation. Cheers, Mark.