markdav

I looked and I could not see any bends. I took some video if anyone interested. Here are 3 - the last one really shows the sticking point.

Boxster stuck 5th - All - Bottom of box.wmv (1.4MB wmv file)

Boxster stuck 5th - All - Top of box.wmv (1.3MB wmv file)

Boxster stuck 5th - 5th only.wmv (500K wmv file)

There is a clamp screw on the top side of the linkage where the linkage binds to the gear shaft. Possible that has slipped?

wonderful - I'll see if I can eyeball the alignment from below. Thanks for the picture.

well i picked up my car from the workshop a few days ago, and it turns out that some of the brackets underneath the car (where the transmission cables connect to the gearbox) were bent and all out of alignment. the mechanic believes that the short shift kit i have installed may have contributed to the problem as there could possibly be more stress on the cables/linkages/brackets.

they were able to fix the problem by bending the components back to where they should be. i can now select 5th gear again, although it is noticeably stiffer than every other gear including reverse, and it feels like something is "grabbing" when i try to shift out of 5th gear. i hope it loosens up with use.

i'm told that the problem could happen again, and that they could possibly replace the problem parts with stronger items.

this is a good outcome, i was dreading a major gearbox problem or failure.

Breathing life into this old thread. I have another thread entitled "Stuck Shifter" that is close to this problem.

Is there any diagram that shows non-bent levers? I'd like to compare it against mine.

Symptoms are the same as both the above and earlier post (damaged transmission internals). Going into 5th feels like 'gooey', coming out it gets stuck far right and need a knock to bring it over. 2nd gear has a bit of a bite. the cables have been aligned properly and lever is stock (2000 2.7 986) I too am hoping for bent levers vs bent transmission.

I'll look as best as I can. Is there any one of the levers that would likely bend more than the others? Looks like there are 3 in total.

Thanks again. Mark.

Thanks Loren. I did just borrow that tool. There was a slight alignment issue (slightly to the right, slightly back). 1,2,3,4,r seem a little smoother. It still gets stuck.

To clarify, when I go into 5th, I can get the leaver easily back to center in the front/back direction but it sticks over to the right. To double check, I unhooked the blue surrounded cable (responds to left right movement), pushed it in (corresponding to moving lever right) and then pushed the stick forward to correspond to 5th. When I pull the stick back again, the blue surrounded cable just stays where it is. It needs a go knock to get it back - almost feels like some teeth are out of alignment at that point.

Looking at the other end of the cables, there is no play in any of the joints.

Sound like a broken tranny?

With this car being 8 years old, what view do you think Porsche will take with regard to warranty of drive chain?

Is a tranny replacement straight forward (apart frrom the huge $$$ of the replacement)

Thanks, Mark.

+1 for Oil sep/bellows. Changed mine a year ago and everything cleared. You need a good pair of angled nose hose clamp pliers and quite a bit of patience. There are some good posts in this forum for the procedure.

No, everything is standard. It started happening out of the blue but now is consistent. It is less noticable when going from reverse to Neutral. Going from 5th, it gets stuck over to the right and needs a solid tug to bring it back to the central location.

Did you get a resolution? My 2000 has started to do this (sticks in reverse or 5th). No work done on the transmission or engine prior to it happening. Interested in what they found was the cause.

Thanks, MArk.

History - '05 base boxster w/ manual 5 speed transmission. Bought the car new, no problems until this June at 16,800 miles the intermediate shaft bearing went. Oil all over the road, metal shavings in the engine so Porsche replaced the engine under warranty. Got the car back as good as ever.

2 weeks ago @ 18,400 miles - backed the car into the garage and the manual transmission wouldn't come out of Reverse. Got it out of Reverse and was able to drive it to the Dealer, realizing that it wouldn't go into 5th gear either. No prior problems or signs of anything like this, I don't race the car and no one else drives it but me.

Dealer had to go into the gearbox to replace some shifter forks, etc... Just got it back yesterday after a week. It drives fine for the most part. Now though, it doesn't feel as smooth as it did before. Just working through the gears with foot on the clutch, you can't take it from 5th into Neutral without working it a bit. Doesn't feel the same. Kind of 'notchy' at certain points, like you have to maneuver the stick a bit - not the same as before and not something that should have to be done on this car. Any ideas now? Likely taking it back after driving it a bit this weekend to make sure that it really isn't right. Thanks

Bumping this post. Any thoughts before I take it down the the $1000 slot machine (aka the dealer). :o

Thanks!

Just started happening on my 2000 Boxser 5 spd.

I can move easily between R, 1, 2, 3, 4 easily and the action is the regular punchy precision we all love about these cars :-).

If I go into 5th, that is ok but when I come out, the shifter stays hard right in the center of 5th/R and it takes a hard tug to pull it over to center. Then 1, 2, 3, 4 are ok. This is repeatable every time since it started. No noise/grinding when it eventually moves.

Any thoughts?

Cheers, Mark.

Just started happening on my 2000 Boxser 5 spd.

I can move easily between R, 1, 2, 3, 4 easily and the action is the regular punchy precision we all love about these cars :-).

If I go into 5th, that is ok but when I come out, the shifter stays hard right in the center of 5th/R and it takes a hard tug to pull it over to center. Then 1, 2, 3, 4 are ok. This is repeatable every time since it started. No noise/grinding when it eventually moves.

Any thoughts?

Cheers, Mark.

Resolution:

I changed the Oil Separator over the weekend (mine is the vertical lollipop type). Followed the procedure in this post be NotMyCar :http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4794 . Great advice about the hose clamps.

Additional advice

- the 2nd tube down (passenger side, half way down) is also awkward to get off. I found that removing the electrical connector next to it helped though this is a bit tricky to get back on without long nose pliers.

- When you separate the filler tube, it is a real bugger to get the top part off - even with hose clamp pliers. Alternative - if you top tube has a flexible joint and you can squeeze it over to the right (looking from the back forwards) past the engine cover mounting socket. Once it is over there - much easier to access the separator bolts and hose clamps. Get teh 2nd tube free before you do this though (see above).

- you need a small wrench/socket set to get the top bolt out. The "normal" sized wrenches hit the oil separator body and you can't quite get on the bolt. Once you have gone past 1/4 turn, you can do the rest with your fingers.

After the repair, the engine idled poorly - almost stalled but I remember from other posts that the engine management system needs a few runs to re-calibrate. Within 3 drives, the car is running well and idling properly. I think you can reset this quicker by taking the battery off for a couple of minutes.

As far as the old unit goes, it did not appear to have a tear in the bottom tube but it was deformed quite badly (almost like there was too much vacuum and had collapsed inwards). Not sure why I got the whine on decelleration but it has gone away and so has the P1128/1130.

Hope this helps.

Afraid one side does not fit all when it comes to us humans.

Real example: I am 6'2" and fit comfortably. A friend is the same 6'2" and hits his head on the roof. He has a longer body and shorter legs than me. Head size, neck length, body length, leg length are all a bit variable even if you are the same height. You'll need to speak to a higher authority than the Porsche designer about this :-)

Another day, another update. the dreaded 1128/1130 codes have appeared. I changed my MAF sensor back in April so unlikely to have gone so quickly. Will do the oher standard 1128/1130 checks and report back.

M.

Was there any resolution to this? I have the same symptoms.

Thanks!. Mark.

Definitely the back.

I had this problem back in the spring. Turned out that my oil had gone bad a little early and when I changed the oil, the problem went away. I had 7K on Mobil1 oil and it should last to at least 9K. I am now changing at 6K intervals now (please lets not start a thread about 3K oil changes as pushed by the oil industry drug barons!).

The oil had signs of water contamination and breakdown. The theory explained to me was that the oil needs to stick around the lifters after shutdown and get back there PDQ and smothly on startup. If it doesn't, then you get this sound. Thin, broken down oil can cause this - also light viscosity oil in warmer conditions.

If you have low oil miles, never mind, unlikely this is the cause.

Further info.

* Definitely related to engine revs. Clutch in/out does not make a difference.

* Only get noises when the engine is up to temperature

* I can hear a very faint screeching sound at around 3K revs

* The louder whistle sound appears around 3K revs but only on deceleration from 65-70mph.

* no warning lights on at this stage (will check my obd tonight to see if there are any temp codes)

From other posts thinking could this be oil separator? How do I test the separator? Is 47K a reasonable MTBF (or MMBF :) ) for a separator?

Just saw that Jeff740 had a similar issue http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10178 . any other possibilities? Why would the strut cause the whining under these conditions?

cheers, Mark.

Car: 2000, 2.7, Manual, USA

This just started yesterday after a 40 minute freeway drive. I decelerated in 4th from around 70 to 50 with foot off the gas and a medium pitch whine / whistle started emanating from the rear somewhere. I pumped the gas briefly and it went away. A few minutes later, same conditions, same noise and I pushed the clutch in this time and the noise went away.

It is definitely a whistle rather than a screeching sound. Clearly audible above the engine noise. Starts after a long deceleration (>10 seconds) from high speed - tried this again this morning at lower speeds and no problems.

At one point I thought I saw my oil light flicker on but this could have been an illusion. Does it sound like an oil pump issue? Oil is up to mark and recently changed (<1000 miles ago).

I know this is thin information but it is hard to reproduce the conditions in my garage so hard to localise. Everything sounds fine when idle. Any pointers in terms of what to look for first, next would be great.

Thanks, Mark.

I'm expecting the flaming too! :-)

Really looking to the forum for insight into the handling characteristics of these two tires and whether they are as close as the specs say. Definately interested in this line of tire because the rib in both types reduces noise. Would not go anywhere near a brand difference, season difference, tread type difference.

ok, everyone says you should not mix front and rear tires. Agreed but they wear at different intervals so when Porsche starts using new tire models and reviewers give them great reviews, you have to choose between keeping the old or starting a transition to the new or spending $$$ replacing all while throwing away the unworn tires. I love the Pilot Ribs (esp compared to the original PZeros).

Lots of talk about the PS2 being even better even though similar specs to the Rib.

Car is Boxster 2000, 2.7 manual, regular driving (not agressive), Both are Sport Pilot Ribs but the front have at least 15K left on them (5 k driven).

Q - apart from the theoretical arguement about not mixing, anyone had any bad experiences mixing tires that are this close?

Thanks, Mark.

One thing to note - Porsche OEM rotors have a grey rust proof paint on the hub. Zimmerman does not. After a few weeks, you can see the rust on the zimmerman hubs through the wheel trim - a bit ugly. I heard one suggestion to paint the hubs with high temp rust paint. I haven't done this - interested if anyone else has and what brand they used and what prep they needed to do. I don't need the paint flaking off at the wrong moment.

I flushed a few times and a couple of little bits came out but the big piece is still in there somewhere... :unsure:

Anyone know if the pumps can be traded in for refurbish (and who would do it)?

See Picture attachment. This is my water pump after removal. Not in good shape. Wondering where the bits of plastic came to rest. Car is running well so hopefully they are resting in the sump and will stay there.

Mark.

Sorry for the delay. As usual, bring a camera anywhere near a fault and it stops being faulty! Ugh!

Prior to this issue, I had a water pump meltdown resulting in gou all over the belt and pullies - may be that this has freed up now. The revs are behaving as expected now (slight decrease when aircon turned on vs. slight increase that I was seeing before) and the pulley is moving freely.

Will update if this goes bad again.

Many thanks for your help - Mark.