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White987S
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Posts posted by White987S
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Unfortunately, 1 quart per 1,000 miles is very much within Porsche's spec. Some Porsches consume oil. Some don't. I've owned 3 (987S, 993 Turbo, 991 C2S) and non have consumed oil between oil changes (5,000 miles).
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Maybe your dealership will do it for you during an oil change, without charging you extra. Worth a shot. Unless you do your owner oil changes, too.
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16 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:
Exceeded the DT how?
Better (lower) wear metals. Alum, Iron, and Copper.
Better high shear, high temp, stability. Oil stays in grade longer, over the drain interval.
Better zinc levels.
Better phosphorus levels.
DT40 is a good product, slightly better than Mobil 0W40. My experience is that Mobil 5W50 is slightly better again than DT40, with the added advantage of; being A40 approved, has far less cross polination issues, and much easier to purchase (Napa Auto Parts).
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If you want the full effect of the Driven 5W40, you need to do a flush (200-400 miles) with BR30 first. The Driven oil products fight many other oil companie's additive packages. The Driven products are not Porsche A40 approved (there are over 200 oils on the list), if that matters to you. If you elect not to do the flush, you will not see the true benefit of the Driven 5W40 for about 3 oil change cycles (due to the cross pollination). This could easily be 2-3 years for most owners. This flush process come directly from the oil's developers (L. Speed and J. Raby).
If it were my Birthday-Boxster (BIG congrats, BTW), I'd use Mobil 5W50, and call it a day. My Mobil 5W50 UOA's (Blackstone Used Oil Analysis) have always exceeded the Driven in my 987S and 991S.
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Re-confirm you are properly attaching the positive and negative terminals.
What do you mean by "engine cover grills"?
How old is battery?
Is the vent tube properly connected?
What is the battery's fluid level in each cell?
If the battery is failing, and you "recharged" it, it only made it worse. Worse thing for a battery it to be fully discharged, and then recharged.
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I had great tire performance on my 2014 991S with PZeros. I now have the MPSS. I expect them to be just as good, if not better.
On the PZeros, you only have the rim protector on the front 245/35/20.....not the rear. Witht the MPSS, you will have it on both, so that's about the only sidewall difference. They sit very well on my Sport Techno wheels.
Make sure you order your tires ASAP. Many places run out of the popular 295/30/20 and 305/30/20 rear tires. You can easily upsize to the 305....FYI.
You should also look into the new Michelin PS4S tire coming out now.
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14 hours ago, edirizarry said:
How do I do this for my Porsches if their stickers are both missing?
Here is a little trick to try. Use the Dr. Color Chip website to find the code.
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Exactly. You have over 8 quarts of oil and over 6 gallons of coolant.
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1 hour ago, chipmunk13 said:
I would go for a 3.4 987-1 for the reasons quoted above however be aware that some of them suffer from heat seizure - a situation that can occur suddenly under specific conditions ie a fast take off after idling or when the engine is cold (they don't full understand the combination of events that causes it). What this results in is damage to bank 2 and an engine rebuild. Ideally therefore you should try to find one that has already had an engine rebuild - assuming of course that the rebuild has been done correctly. I am familiar with the options available having just had my engine rebuilt after the previous owner cut corners and used steel liners. I opted for all 6 cylinder to be bored out and re-sleeved with Nikasil liners - a pricey option but it makes the engine bullet proof. Let me know if you need more info.
You mean a 3.2 not a 3.4. I've been following Porsche a long time. Never heard of the "heat seizure".
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My old 2006 987S was rock solid. Drove it for 60,000 miles and sold ($32) to my neighbor back in 2013 for 1/2 of what I paid for it. All I did to that car was wash it, put gas in it, new tires every 20K, changed the oil every 7K miles, and scheduled maintnenace.
For a 987.....I'd recommend getting the S if your budget allows (more HP, bigger brakes and etc.).....skip the first year (2005).....and buy the best example you can find from 2006-2008. Good luck. Great fun Porsches.
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My 2014 911 is accurate, within 1 mph, high. My 2016 Ford is also within 1 mph. My old 987 and993 were less accurate, within 2-3 mph. All at highway speeds.
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Here's the math I promised you:
Max expansion starts to happen above the 210-215 mark.
I remember seeing this equation this summer:
Specific volume of a unit can be expressed as
The change in the units volume when temperature change can be expressed as
dV = V0 β (t1 - t0) (2)
v = 1 / ρ = V / m (1)
where
v = specific volume (m3/kg)
ρ = density (kg/m3)
V = volume of unit (m3)
m = mass of unit (kg)
The density of a fluid when the temperature is changed can be expressed as
where
dV = V1 - V0 = change in volume (m3)
β = volumetric temperature expansion coefficient (m3/m3 oC)
t1 = final temperature (oC)
t0 = initial temperature (oC)
ρ1 = m / V0 (1 + β (t1 - t0))
= ρ0 / (1 + β (t1 - t0)) (3)
where
ρ1 = final density (kg/m3)
ρ0 = initial density (kg/m3)
Volumetric Temperature Coefficients - β - of some common Fluids •water : 0.000214 (1/oC),
•ethyl alcohol : 0.00109 (1/ oC), 0.00061 (1/oF)
•oil : 0.00070 (1/oC), 0.00039 (1/oF)
Hot engine ~220F and room temp ~75F and that's 145F temp difference. The oil volume expansion is then 0.00039 * 145 = 5.6%
5.6% of 9L of oil = 0.5L
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You overfilled the oil back in June. Probably by about 200-400 mls. Not much, but, you're over.
Some Porsches burn oil. Some don't. Normal. Yours appears to not burn oil. That's good & normal.
Our oil levels CAN go UP with low usage due to combustion moisture building up from daily driving, on short trips. Oil never gets hot-hot. Can easliy be 5%. Almost a 1/2 quart.
Thermal expansion is a VERY REAL issue. I'll show you the match below. That can be another 1/2 quart.
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Interesting Sportplus997. Following.
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42 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:
In general, yes. They tend to run hot, which does not help, and can be generally hard on lubricants, which is why product selection and maintenance timing is critical.
Agree. And if you run the car in the powerband above the 4,500 rpm's during spirited driving. My cars see a lot of 4,500-6,500 rpm fun.
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20 hours ago, Cefalu said:
Blackstone just analyzed my oil and noted my engine was shearing my oil down a little, with a viscosity of SUS 78 and the cSt of 15.01. This oil was Redline 5-40 and there was probably 4,000 miles on the oil. Overall the engine has 73,000 miles on it.
How or why can an engine shear oil viscosity down?
Those are good numbers for shear stability. Red Line is a god product. By comparison, Mobil 0W40 would have been in the low 60's and under 12.
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On 11/4/2016 at 11:45 AM, JFP in PA said:
Welcome to RennTech
I would do a leak down on the engine. We have seen several of these vehicles that were sold with heavier weight oil in them because one or more cylinders walls were out of round or scored, and had piston slap that they wanted to quiet the engine before trading or selling the car. And long before I would put your oil of choice in it, I would switch the engine to Gibbs DT40 (much better film strength and very high ZDDP levels).
On 11/4/2016 at 4:06 PM, JFP in PA said:Gibbs DT 40 is a 5W-40 oil with exceptional film strength and very high ZDDP levels to reduce further wear. You really do not want to run excessively heavy weight oils as they will effect how the VarioCam system function. Stick with the DT40.
Lots of bad advice and information in these 2 posts.
First, to get the maximum benefit of the DT40 you MUST do an engine flush with Joe Gibbs BR30 for about 200-400 miles. Way too much cross pollination with other oil's additive package. Especially Mobil's. This is the exact recommendation buy the product's developers Lake Speed of Gibbs and Jake Raby's of Flat 6 Innovations.
Second, DT40 does NOT have "very high ZDDP". Not much higher than Mobil 0W40. Less than 100 ppm different for zinc and phosphorus. Read the VOAs and you'll easily see. And if you don't do the BR30 flush first, your actual ZDDP will be significantly LOWER than M1 0W40. Read the UOAs to easily see this cause & effect.
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On 10/27/2016 at 9:58 PM, Hayyan Al-Raisi said:
4- Price. The price difference between the stealth bulbs and the OEM bulbs are as follows:
OEM 194 bulb = $4.5
Stealth bulb = $28.99
Difference = $24.49 = 84%
OEM 7507 bulb = $4.5
Stealth bulb = $29
Difference = $24.5 = 84%
OEM 7506 bulb = $9.25
Stealth bulb = $29
Difference = $19.75 = 68%
In conclusion, the quality and the look of the stealth bulbs are good and does enhance the look of the rear and side light housing by eliminating the orange hint. However, the function and price are in the favor of OEM bulbs.
Nice write-up, Hayyan, this will help future uses of this site.
But your math is way off!!:)
OEM 194 bulb = $4.5
Stealth bulb = $28.99
Difference = $24.49 = 544% MORE!!
OEM 7507 bulb = $4.5
Stealth bulb = $29
Difference = $24.5 = 544% MORE!!
OEM 7506 bulb = $9.25
Stealth bulb = $29
Difference = $19.75 = 213.5% MORE!!!
I am usinf what the "cool kids" call new math.
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The 991 is an awesome car. I hear great things about the 3.4 9A1 motor. I have 37,000 miles on my 2014 C2S with PowerKit (430 HP).
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Peppermint oil.
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Use the footwell, since it's not switched.
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I'm pretty sure the Porsche spec is 1 litre per 1,000 km. That's considered normal oil consumption.
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38 minutes ago, jchapura said:
0.5 liter of water seems like a lot if you have a non-trivial commute that should be burning it off.
That's only about 5%. It's normal. Heck, fuel dilition alone can easily be 2-3%. This is all covered in your owner's manual too, regarding sudden oil level drop. FYI.
Got a Boxster for Birthday! Oil Question
in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Posted
Sounds like a prior owner bypassed the clutch microswitch.