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White987S
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Posts posted by White987S
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In 2008 there was a 987 Boxster RS 60. But, not a 986.
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Is the oil stinky? You may have ruptured a motor mount.
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Ceramic powder coated by CCP in Detroit. Nice satin black.
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From TOGWT on Rennlist:
Water Ingress Damaged Surfaces - by inadvertently leaving a moon roof, convertible top or vehicles windows open during a rain storm will very likely soak the leather seating and perhaps the carpets. The damage would depend on how long it's exposed to water, restoration is important because it may become a breeding ground for mould and mildew. Left for a couple of weeks your whole interior would probably have to be replaced.
There are no leather finishes that are water proof. Leather hides used for automotive upholstery consist of approximately 45 square feet, that are stitched together to form a covering. The thousands of stitch holes allow any standing water to be absorbed and migrate laterally under the urethane finish. The perforated leathers used on many BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche and other cars also allow standing water to permeate the urethane.
Leather that has been soaked may become brittle and may be ruined due to the formation of water mark stains and blemishes. Water damage restoration for leather is very manageable using the correct products and methodologies. When leather becomes soaked or wet, the best way to dry it is to use clean, dry towels to wipe away the water. Never dry leather using a heater as this will cause the leather to shrink rapidly, causing further drying and cracking.
Finished leather (urethane pigmentation) is water resistant, which means if you spill or allow liquid onto the surface and clean it right away it should not cause problems. Damage to the electronics that are under the seats (seat-belt sensor, seat positioning motor, air bag sensors, and etc) may be a cause for concern.
Obviously the amount of damage could be lessened dependent upon how quickly action was taken. If you saw it immediately, and got it home quickly and dried it out using towels to soak up the rain water, most things would be okay.
Restoration
Avoid flexing or bending the leather while you are restoring it because leather is weakened when the fibres are dry and it may crack.
Wet a towel with warm water, wringing out excess. Proceed to wipe the leather to remove any dirt and moisten the surface. If you are working on a large item, do one section at a time so you can apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch, while the surface is still moist. This is not a conditioner per se; it contains polymers in an aqueous emulsion and is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre by rehydration and to ensure the leather remains matte, soft and supple.
Apply a small amount to a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel, use a circular motion and slight pressure to ensure the product permeates the dried-out pores, but do not push hard enough to damage the leather. Allow 20-30 minutes’ dwell time; unless the damage is severe, it should soften up after you massage it for a few minutes and then wipe surface with a dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel.
Although water (hydration) is good for leather and is what keeps it in good condition generally when its fibres become over soaked they swell and become deformed. When they dry they may not shrink back and revert to their original form and so become more brittle and distorted. Unfortunately, at this stage it may be impossible to rectify. -
Try a quality product like:
Leatherique (2 stage process)
Colorplus.com (Softener leather conditioner)
Zaino Z10- Leather In A Bottle
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Test drive both, then decide.
Daily driver= PDK
Fun weekend toy= manual trans
But that's just me.
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From JFP in PA:
"Instead of the M1, take a good look at Joe Gibbs DT 40, which is an excellent year round oil for these cars. Very high in ZDDP, it demonstrates excellent film strength and resistance to high temp/high shear conditions."
DT40 has no higher ZDDP than Mobil 0W40. Both are right at 1,000/1,100 PPM. To get the full effect of DT40 users should first flush the engine with BR30 for about 200 miles. FYI.
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Don't mess with Joe Gibbs DT40. JFP in PA failed to tell you in the above post that you should first flush the engine with BR30 due to cross pollination and the fact that the DT40 fights with the Mobil additive package.
Use Mobil 5W50. It is Porsche A40 approved. Much better oil than Mobil 0W40. On sale right now at Napa for $5.99 quart plus you can use the current Mobil rebate for another $12 off per case.
This is the oil I've been using for years in my 987 Boxster and 991 Carrera S PowerKit. My UOA's show better results compared to DT40.
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I would suggest 36/40.
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The 2 "dull-yellowish" looking pictures are REAR ones.
Buy a better tire like the Michelin Super Sports, and get an alignment done by the dealership or more competent indy shop. On my 2014 991 C2S I can easily get over 15,000 on the rears.
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Post your location, and find a better shop by asking for recommendations here.
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I just got an outdoor cover (997-044-000-03) for my 2007 997.1 2S. It is so tight that I can't get it over the mirrors, and I thought I was going to rip it, and I stopped trying that. Figuring forget about trying to fit it over the mirrors, I would put it on and zip it up. Nope, I ripped the seam out trying to zip the cover on!! Not good. Called the dealership where I bought it and told them that they need to show me how to put it on - and order a new.
Not sure if this helps you or not, I've never used the outdoor cover, but I've used my indoor cover many-many times. I always start in the middle, and hook in the mirrors FIRST, then drape over the front/back and then finish draping over the front/back. So, mirrors first, not last. This may have been your kryptonite.
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What do you need?.........................
Credit card......................check!
Fully charge cell phone......................check!
Vulcanized tire plug kit......................................check!
Rubber gloves....................................................................check!
This is about all I ever worry about anymore.
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Why did you replace cats? Surprised the original cats failed. We don't hear too many cases of failed cats.
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I'm going with bore scoring.
:rolleyes: Thanks. IMS bearing too cliche? Or maybe you could explain your 'going' a little more.
Research "bore scoring" on Rennlist and pay close attention to posts by Jake Raby of Flat Six Innovations.
Idling your car, on the driveway, "to build up a little heat in the oil", is one of the very WORST things you can be doing to your 996.
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I'm going with bore scoring.
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Your leather is Natural Brown.
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As I said, I don't think it will ever be the same, I'm really pushing for a total write off. Stay tuned, and thanks again . :thankyou: Cheers Dave.
It will be fine. As long as the frame is not bent/tweaked. Even then, it can be fixed if the numbers work for State Farm.
You can push all you want, they will not declare a total loss unless repair costs start to exceed 75% of market value.
If the frame is bent, the car will be totaled. If not, it will be fixed.
3 Major Things Effect Total Loss:
1) frame damage
2) air bag deployment
3) water intrusion (drive into a lake/pond)
*these type of repairs effect costs f a s t !
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With that low mileage I would gues $30k before the incident. FL total loss threshold is 80% so most likely they won't total it. I would expect a $15k repair quote easily though.
Just tow it to the dealer (or your favorite body shop that specializes in Porsche) and let them work with the adjuster and see. Once the car is repaired, you can further decide what to do with it.
I know how you feel now but give it some time, the pain will go away eventually.
I agree with most of this, except the pre-accident value of $30k. That's too high in my opinion. That number is much closer to $20 than to $30.
If the air bags blew, (can't tell from pics) it will be a total loss.
If the frame is bent (probably not, but needs to be checked/inspected) it will be a total loss.
If State Farm (great, fair company) declares a total loss, come back here and update us. I'll give you further advice how to negotiate with their Total Loss Department.
Glad no one was injured.
This is why I never let just anyone drive my Porsches.
This is why I most always decline driving other people's cars, when offered.
Ill know more next week ? :huh:
The airbags did NOT go off, but considering the left rear wheel violently hit the curb as we did a 360 spin, (unseen damage, the back "looks" fine ??? )
I'm thinking unseen damage to the trans axle, motor , rear suspension etc "White 987S ", not to mention the front end , steering, radiators, right frt wheel rim bent, and more.
So far it really looks like a write off/ total loss. When I looked on line a basic 2 wheel drive, 2002 -996- 911 is going for anywhere from $19K to $ 28 K depending on mileage and condtion. Please bear in mind this car was in VERY good shape and only had 26, 850 miles on the clock, lower mileage than any similar car I could find on line, although supposedly State Farm takes that into consideration ?
My friend also mentioned to me, if and when I get paid off ? I should ask State farm to buy it back, as he thinks they would sell it back to me for $2,000 or $3,000 as is ? Just telling them I want it for parts etc.
Point is this crash will be on Carfax, ref police report (it's like having a criminal past, LOL ) so selling it in the future, would be a hassle, even if my friend and I buy it from State farm, try to get it repaired, and re-sell it ? Please let me know any advice as you say here : "If State Farm (great, fair company) declares a total loss, come back here and update us. I'll give you further advice how to negotiate with their Total Loss Department." Unquote.
Any further advice on any of this will be MUCH appreciated as I think they will make me an offer next week. :help:
At this point, I don't think I want it repaired , would you ? Any other advice from you guys will be appreciated. Thanks Dave.
Mileage and condition will play into your settlement (IF considered a total loss) but not like you think. It may add a couple thousand dollars. Not $10,000.
Everything is negotiable. Have all your receipts (maintenance, tires, mods, everything). Have comps ready. Search high end places like Sloan, RPM, the PCA website, the PCA magazine Panomara. Prove your car's market value.
STOP listening to your "friends". They are giving you poor advice. You can not buy the salvage back from State Farm for $2-3,000. Depending on your state laws, you may have the opportunity to purchase the salvage for about 27% (+/- 2%) of the total loss claim value. So if they value your car at $24,000 you can buy the salvage for about $6,480. Then what are you going to do with it?
That's something I'd NOT be interested in. Fixing and owning a salvaged car. Maybe unless I wanted to convert to a dedicated race car, or something.
If your car was highly desirable (like a 993 or 993 Turbo), you could probably buy the salvage from State Farm, and flip (sell immediately) to a third party (high-end salvage buyers), and make about 10-15% over your salvage buy out. But I don't suspect there is this kind of market on a 996.
Negotiate and negotiate hard with State Farm if totaled. Be persistent, professional and very prepared. Don't accept first offer. Don't lawyer up, you can do this on your own. They should also (depending on your state laws) include in the final settlement retail sales tax and licensing fees into the final settlement. Don't bring this up until the very end.
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My other friend (not the one who wrecked it) reminded me this happens often at the track, so it's no big deal , and will be "good as new" ? Another guy said "It's just cosmetic" :censored: Nah !
Dave, you need better friends and acquaintances! :)
I've been to many many many track events over the years. DE's and Club Racing. I've never seen anyone hit a light post. :)
And for the guy who said "cosmetic".......maybe he works for Mary Kay....and that's all he knows.
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With that low mileage I would gues $30k before the incident. FL total loss threshold is 80% so most likely they won't total it. I would expect a $15k repair quote easily though.
Just tow it to the dealer (or your favorite body shop that specializes in Porsche) and let them work with the adjuster and see. Once the car is repaired, you can further decide what to do with it.
I know how you feel now but give it some time, the pain will go away eventually.
I agree with most of this, except the pre-accident value of $30k. That's too high in my opinion. That number is much closer to $20 than to $30.
If the air bags blew, (can't tell from pics) it will be a total loss.
If the frame is bent (probably not, but needs to be checked/inspected) it will be a total loss.
If State Farm (great, fair company) declares a total loss, come back here and update us. I'll give you further advice how to negotiate with their Total Loss Department.
Glad no one was injured.
This is why I never let just anyone drive my Porsches.
This is why I most always decline driving other people's cars, when offered.
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NX32712.
Can't tell for sure, but possibly 27th week of 2012. So I agree with you, not that old. At least this potential issue is ruled out.
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NX32712.
Wife is destroying the wheels on my 4.8i as well. Don't ask, it's not a good situation.
Our wives must be sisters.
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Here you go....
That's not it. See here:
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/hunters-ramblings/how-old-are-the-tires-i-buy
And stop "parking by feel". Your wheels look terrible.:)
Oil consumption
in 997-2 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S, Carrera GTS, 911 Speedster)
Posted
The other major issue with oil overfilling, is foaming and aeration of the oil. With the 8-9 quart capacities of our different 911s, there is also thermal expansion of approx 1/2 quart. That's probably why your warning didn't trip until the oil was up to full operating temp. You should just do maybe 2 cycles of the oil filter dump. I'd bet your level will be fine after that.