White987S

Any mods? What engine air filter? Stock or aftermarket? Maybe the prior owner modded the intake and removed/changed the intake plate (forget what it's called).

Thanks White987S, I just listened to the video they sound real good, im going to call for prices

Talk to one of the owners like Darin. Great guys. Well respected in the Porsche community. They offer some very nice Ceramic Coatings for the Fister mods too. Good luck.

Pricing:

$295 for the mods to your existing mufflers

$225 for a Ceramic coating (optional).....a few different colors, too

Look into the Fister mods from FD Motorsports, but they may be too tame for you. Maybe when you get older.:)

Search for the "red clip" to insert into the top lock mechanism.

FYI. Many of the Turbos are also AWD. Most recently the 993, 996, 997 and now the 991 series.

Yes, a proper Carrera 4 is AWD. This does not mean that the car you are looking at is correct. Maybe it's just an added badge (poser).

What did the folks say on the "Bob The Oil Guy" web site?

There is nearly zero sodium in Mobil. In my factory fill (Mobil 0W40) my April 2014 reading was 8 ppm. My May 2015 reading with Mobil 5W50 was 5 ppm. Your readings are not normal. Something is going on with intermix.

Has anyone determined the depth for the drain plug. I'm about to change my oil (2009 C4S) and would like to get a magnetic drain plug. I see that LN Engineering has one, but its ridiculously expensive and longer than the standard. If somebody has experience either with the LN plug or a 3rd party that fits that would be great.

I am using the L&N plug in my 9A1 motor (same motor as you) 2014 991S. Fits right. "Ridiculously expensive"? Really?? It's $25.75.

Buy 3 litres bottles from places like Sunset Porsche. About $40/quart OE fluid 75W90. Smart move to do this project early. Send a sample out to Blackstone Labs if you like to read and collect UOA data. Make sure you know where the fill plug is, and that you can get is loosened, before you start your DIY project.

Also, only use an OE Porsche water pump, no aftermarket stuff. Replace thermostat at the same time, and serpentine belt. Good time to do a coolant flush, you'll need 3 gallons Porsche coolant and 3 gallons of distilled water.

Do Used Oil Analysis (UOAs) if you really want to know the answer to your questions. But, it appears normal.

Thanks for the replies, the reason I am looking for the DT40 is because I've just done the LN IMS retrofit & they recommend the Joe Gibbs.

Last 2 changes I've used the Motul.

I'm sure they do. They have a vested interest in DT40's success. Stay with the Motul. It's an EXCELLENT Porsche approved oil. Prior to carrying DT40, L&N's highest recommended oil was Motul's 5W40 Excess. FYI.

Lastly, if you decide to switch to the DT40, Jake Raby recommends a "flush" process with another Joe Gibbs product prior to the DT40. I forget which product, but it might be the BR30 or BR40 product. Do your research first. I think they want you to run the flush oil a few hundred miles, drain it, and then re-fill with the DT40. The reasoning here is that DT40's additive package fights with many other additive packages out there, and the full effect is not realized until the flush is done.

Another reason to stay with your current Motul.

Joe Gibbs (oil chemist guru is a guy name Lake) has been working on this oil with Jake Raby (Flat Six Innovations) many years. They are on their 5th or 6th revision of this oil now. The most recent is in yet again another new bottle design. Visit the 986Forum.com for a recent discussion.

An oil bottle is not impenetrable. It's probably HDPE (high density poly ethylene). Good moisture, air, and light protection. The shelf life on Mobil is like 5 years for unopened containers. I'd expect the same from the Driven (JG product).

https://mobiloil.com/en/search?q=shelf%20life

That said, I rather use the Motul 8100 ExCess 5W40 oil over the DT40. It's every bit as good, or better than JG. Porsche approved. JG is not, if that matters to you. And better than Mobil 0W40 for sure. Not cheap. Sounds easier for you to obtain, and may be "fresher". If you can get Mobil 5W50 in your part of the world, use it or the Motul. Change every year or every 5-7,000 miles.

Thanks for the part # JFP. I ordered the 6 - 1oz bottles on line since I couldn't find it locally. White987S: I will send my report to the website you suggested and ask for comments. And, I was eating potato chips not pretzels:-))

Thanks for all the help!!

When I recently reviewed Mobil 0W40 UOA's the sodium levels have not changed. They were inline with your prior 2 readings (5 and 7). Your new reading of 69 is not normal, and not due to a Mobil reformulation.

Also ask Blackstone to re-test your sample, if they can, ASAP. They are very good about this kind of stuff. Maybe they made an error, of Jimmy was eating chips, too.:)

Good luck.

Hope you sort this out soon, and the fix is easy.

One of the many reasons I really like doing regular and consistent UOA's. You can really learn and spot a lot of potential issues with your motor.

I'd also suggest you post your Blackstone report on "Bob Is The Oil Guy" site, and ask for feedback on the sodium level.

This will teach you not to eat pretzels while changing your oil.:)

The failure rate of water pumps is 100%. It's just a matter of time & when.

You want to run a high speed DE event. Be safe, and enjoy the event. You don't want to compromise your safety nor the safety of the other drivers you share the track with. Not to mention the downtime for the track personnel who might have to clean up your coolant leak in a failure event. You want to be on the track, improving your skills, not in the paddock replacing a pump.

I would not run a DE until you sort out the water pump issue, first. Only use an OE Porsche water pump. No aftermarket stuff. Replace thermostat, coolant (3 gallons plus 3 gallons distilled water) and serpentine belt all at the same time.

Do you use a Porsche (or C-Tek) battery maintainer when not being driven? Easy to use. Plug into cigarette lighter, close the door. Done. I see you're in MN. Did you store it during the winter? On a battery maintainer?

Keep in mind the torque spec on these magnetic drain plugs is pretty low. 19ft.lbs. for the L&N version. Don't know if this played into it. Did you use the proper crush washer?

Is your car recently coming out of winter hibernation? I'd say dead animal. Pull your cabin and engine air filters. Start looking around. Did you this car last year too??

In case anyone else has a similar issue, it looks like this is due to a broken flap in the PSE or a crack somewhere in the right side of the exhaust.

 

If it's the flap, I think the only option is to replace it, right?

Contact Darin at FD Motorsports. He may be able to salvage your PSE with a little surgery, and provide a great sounding exhaust in constant sport mode without drone. And ceramic powder coat a few different colors. Good luck.

http://fdmotorsports.net/fister-exhaust-997-one

So insurance company towed car to their total loss yard and had it for a week; they had an estimate for $12K; 7 hours to straighten frame; they stated in their eyes the car is repairable and not a loss.

 

I don't want a Porsche that has a bent frame; the car will never handle and drive like it used to.

 

So what are my options now; take it to another body shop for another estimate; do I have any recourse not to want to have my car repaired.

 

I was also told my insurance company that they determine a loss if cost to repair is over 80% of value; I thought it was closer to 50%; seems to me they are now increasing to 80% not to call it a total loss.

 

Sucks that you had a beautiful car in excellent condition and now they just want to slop it back together.

7 Hours to straighten the frame? That seems low. They should need to remove and replace the motor. That's 20 hours right there. Are they quoting it with engine removal? Ask them how are they going to straighten the frame with the motor in? If it's a rear frame rail, the motor needs to come out.

Yes, years ago the "magic number" was about 50". Now it is much closer to the 80% number they told you.

Do they have the airbags in the quote?

Who's repair quote is this? The insurance? Or the repair facility? Once the repair facility quotes the damage repairs, it will exceed $12K.

Exhaust clamps?

Motor mounts?

Damaged muffler baffle?

Do you have PSE?
 

Water pump?

Serpentine belt?

Pulley?

What is your maintenance history????

Hi: there were 4 cars involved and I was in the middle so liability shouldn't be an issue; I purchased the car with many of the upgrades probably over $20K just for the rims/tires/suspension/spoiler/exhaust etc...

 

What do you do if you do not have receipts for aftermarket items

 

Its being towed to Porsche dealer collision shop which is actually a preferred vendor for the insurance company; insurance adjuster is going to view there.

 

If insurance decides to repair, what happens in regards to the spoiler as example; its after market; do they try to buy a new one or repair the existing or state its aftermarket and they will install factory spoiler

 

Thanks for the help

Why are you so concerned about your rear spoiler. Your car is likely totaled. Hope I'm wrong.

I'm no expert, but if you hit a car in front of you, you are at fault, too, for that car.