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I don't believe swapping the solenoids did it. The noise also isn't completely gone, but it does happen less often now that I'm out driving the car. Again, when I got the car last year it had barely been driven, then I went at solving the noise without really driving the car. I swapped the solenoids to see if the noise would follow - such as if the solenoid spring was weak or the filter/check-valve under the solenoid was restricting flow. Looking for a possibility of the intake came sprocket to be "clacking" due to lack of pressure or flow.
Slight Update: No definitive solution/cure yet on this noise. I have swapped the cam solenoids and screen/check valves side-to-side. Plus I have driven approx 300 miles in the last week or so. The noise is not completely gone, but is either quieter or non-existent. There are times I've pulled into the garage and idled the car for over a minute with no sound. Occasionally after a drive, the tapping sound is present, but not as loud, sometimes fading out. With the solenoid swap, I can't quite tell if the tap has moved from Left to Right - I've not put the car back on the lift but on the ground it's still sort of left-sided. The car is running strong, fuel mileage is good, no oil consumption that's noticeable yet - and the car seems happy to be driven. It's been fun exploring the upper RPM range, too!
Haven't really done much in the last few weeks. Just finished with the "infotainment" install and a full-up detail. Our weather and roads are still too bad to drive out anywhere. I am looking to get the car out by the weekend for a run, so I'll post back with an update!
Well, I'll post an update for any new ideas, even though I'm not sure it's solved yet. I'm in the process of changing out the stock headunit for an Android based unit(rooted and sideloaded - ready to go!). As a side note, this is the first Porsche I've worked on, but it's been a good learning project. Many thanks to JFP for the support! Again, this is a 2006 S with 75k miles, not driven much by the previous/original owner in the last year or so. The tapping starts once the engine has dropped to 680rpm, which is not quite up to full operating temperature. It's a single tap around the frequency of a cam revolution or valve. May not start for a minute after hitting 680rpm, goes away by about 900rpm, and may not return for 30-60 seconds. Seems to be around #6 cylinder and I can also hear it in the first cat on the exhaust using a stethoscope. Here's what I did, roughly in order: - Replaced oil pressure relief piston and spring - Changed over to Driven 5w40 oil - Tested without serpentine belt - Checked torque on all exhaust bolts - Changed spark plugs, which looked used but not fouled. - Changed lifters on the cyl 4-6 side(the side with the noise) - Took apart intake plenums, found loose vacuum control flap joint and fixed - Cleaned MAF and throttle body - Cleaned intake plenums. The AOS was going bad, but still seemed OK. - Replaced AOS - Replaced all 3 chain tensioners(they didn't hold pressure while hot, showed a little wear, but not that far off the testing of new tensioners) - Dropped the sump. A little sludge in the bottom, but no pieces in sump or oil filter/housing. - Added oil pressure sender and gauge. Oil pressure decent(40lbs at hot idle). - Scoped the 5 and 6 cylinders and look clean, except top of the piston is a little oil-wet. Plugs are not fouled. - Cam deviations before and after work look excellent - No CEL's - Can't tell adaptations yet, as it hasn't been driven - Swapped #5 and #6 coil pack, but have not tested this yet. However, I've not had a chance to really drive it since doing all this work! Our roads in PA have been bad with weather and pot-holes. So my next plan is to get out and give it some good miles. Thinking it could still be an oil gallery issue around the lifters, but I'm running out of ideas. Good thing is I have tricks for a ton of this stuff now. Locking cams and pulling tensioners is down to a science. While I'd rather not do lifters again, I don't think it would be that bad. But man, I just want to get out and drive! Jay.
Didn't solve it yet, but I've done a lot of work(never worked on a Porsche motor before, so it's been a learning experience with some help). Found the engine internals to be very clean. I even replaced a side of lifters myself - didn't solve it. Waiting for one part which I should have this weekend. Once fixed I'll post a full report of what I did and what solved it. I'm looking again at chain tensioners at the moment.
Can someone give us a run-down on how the intake distribution and tuning flaps are controlled on an S model? - What generates the vacuum? (tandem pump?) - How are the vacuum lines routed? - Is there an accumulator? - What actually controls the individual vacuum to the flap valves? Bonus question: How can you tell if the distribution valve is being actuated? Jay. '06 987S.
Yeah, wasn't planning on starting that cam-cover project until I had the tools to hold the cams. Trying to exhaust all other possibilities before pulling the trigger on the tools and time. Looks like an interesting project, just not something I wanted to do but will do it if needed. Spent way too much time already looking at the process. After doing the plugs today, it looks like the cam covers can be removed in-car. Is that possible? It's a little tight, but having it on the lift and panels removed it seems do-able. Jay.
While I'm working on getting the clips uploaded, I found this video which sounds quite like my car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOCZsBIIXNA I also only have about 50 miles after the oil change and lots of idle time. Running M1 0W40 per the dealer but considering a switch to Edge 5W40 as a trial. Jay.
Changed out the plugs today. Seemed to have even torque all around. Plugs all looked even with just a hint of oil. Found one coil pack having cracks starting, but it's not on the side that seems to have the tapping. Idle is still a little "nervous", but I didn't disconnect the battery or reset anything. The tapping is still there, though. No difference after changing the plugs. I captured a few sound clips and will be posting soon. It really seems to be around the left side, bank 2. With a stethoscope I can still only pinpoint it to that side, possibly towards the front(belt side) of the motor, although it's strangely the loudest(without s-scope) near the oil filter area. Could it be one of the oil pumps? Lifters? Something in the sump? Worth pulling that cover? Is it time to pull the cam covers? I need to get the proper tools first. Anyone have any tips on changing lifters on a 987S? Jay.
A few additional points: - The frequency seems like it's on 1 cylinder. The tap is approx 4 or 5 Hz. - Going through the Excel sheet of the cam readings, the 2 banks are within 1 or 2 degrees of each other and are well within the 6 degrees nominal from idle to about 3k. - No CEL's or codes. - Once up to op temp, the engine does seem a little rough at idle, as if "out of tune". Going to start a plug change today and clean the MAF. The air filter was dirty and I have a replacement. Jay.
Another tapping noise post.... Picked up an '06 Boxster S at Christmas. Decided on something more modern after racing a '35 MG special, 50's Alfas, and other British. First time with Porsche! There is a tapping noise at hot idle that is driving me nuts trying to find. Here's what's known so far: - Engine has 75k miles and doesn't seem abused. Original owner car. - The noise is not an accessory on the belt. Tested briefly with belt removed. - Updated the oil pressure piston and spring per the TSB. The engine is just before the TSB was issued. - Oil and filter changed recently by the dealer. - Dealer listened for noise and said it's on bank 2 above oil filter somewhere. - The noise goes away by 1krpm with light throttle. - The engine is amazingly quiet at cold, even after sitting for a few days. Very quiet up until it gets to normal operating temperature. The injectors are the bulk of the noise. - After revving the engine up around 3k and dropping, the tapping may not come back for 30 seconds. - On restart at normal temperature, it may be up to a minute before it returns. - The noise seems to go away when the oil cap is removed. There is a slight draw on the cap but nothing keeping it from coming off easily. - I disconnected the AOS from the intake and plugged the ports to the air intake. No difference. - With a stethoscope, the noise is most noticeable towards the front top area. Not a lot of noise near the heads. - Exhaust bolts tight. - Cam angles look OK using a Durametric but I need to research this area a little more. I have a set of plugs to change out as part of maintenance, but otherwise I'm stumped at the moment. I'll record a file of the sound and post it soon. Ideas or thoughts? Thanks! Jay.