Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
IslaTurbine
-
Posts
57 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Events
Forums
External Paint Colors
Downloads
Tutorials
Links Directory
Collections
Store
Everything posted by IslaTurbine
-
Clutch Chatter with low rpms
IslaTurbine replied to IslaTurbine's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Car currently has 65,500 miles on it. -
Hey everyone, I just wanted some opinions to see if I may have an issue. I had a new clutch kit installed when I had the IMS replacement about 2 months ago. Prior to installing the new clutch kit, I had no issues and no noticeable clutch chatter at any rpms. With the new clutch, I also have zero vibrations or clutch chatter noise so long as the rpms are over 1000 with a load on the transmission. There is no chatter at idle with the car not in gear or with the clutch pedal depressed. What's changed with the new clutch is if the car is warm and I try and ease out the clutch slowly without using any throttle (pulling into my garage, for example), I'll get some vibrations in the car and a slight chatter noise. I definitely don't remember it doing this with the old clutch. Is this normal?
-
Good luck!
-
Follow Ahsai's link. I had to remove the airbox, serpentine belt, and alternator. Removing the throttle body would have given a little better of a sight line to the cable end on the starter, but it wasnt absolutely necessary in my case.
-
I think you're right.
-
Here's what the old cable looked like.
-
Yessir it did! Car shows over 14 volts with no load and even with a heavy load the volts don't go below 13 now. After a drive, I shut down the car and restarted her. The cranking amps seem to be restored, probably due to the battery getting a heathy charge now. Thanks for all of your help!
-
Well I could never figure it out but I ended up doing this fix without needing to remove the throttle body, intake plenum, and A/C compressor. Saved me a lot of steps and hard work!
-
Please delete. I think I figured it out.
-
Crossed posted from Rennlist. I have no clue where this braided hose and electrical connector are supposed to attach to. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/870919-help-identify-this-engine-hose-and-connector.html Any help is greatly appreciated.
-
I've hit a slight hiccup on the removal of the y-cable. Do any of you know how to remove the throttle cable from the throttle body? I have the lug end of the cable released from the barrel, but the cable is inserted into the throttle body with a black plastic clip. I can't figure out how to undo that in order to remove the throttle body completely from the engine. Thanks!
-
Did as you suggested and the reading was zero.
-
Finally got around to testing the ground. Positive post to chassis gave me 12.5 volts with a hot car, AC off, radio on, and cooling fan on. Positive post to the engine gave me the same reading, or within .1 depending on where I was touching on the engine. Initially it seemed my issue was present regardless of whether or not the car was hot or cold. It now appears that the volts only take a dive as the engine warms up. I'll be replacing the Y-cable soon.
-
Yeah I meant the ground in the right rear wheel well and the one in the battery box both appear ok. But you're absolutely right regardless, looks don't mean anything with this type of stuff.
-
The saga continues...... I spoke to my indy again and they said they did specifically test the alternator. They said it wasn't producing linear, or stable, power and was giving fluctuating indications. FWIW, when I removed the old unit, it did make a slight ticking noise when I rotated the pulley wheel with my hands. The new unit made no such noise. I went out and used my multimeter on the battery and checked it during cold idle and warm idle (190ish degrees) with various amounts of load (high beams, A/C, radio, hazard flashers) on the system. The readings at the battery lined up with what is being indicated on the dash voltmeter, so I think I can safely rule out having a faulty dash gauge. The readings were quite low....12.0 volts with warm idle, A/C running, high beams, flashers, radio on (with M490 amp), 1 door and the hood open and their associated lights. So I guess now I'm down to either a ground issue, though they both appear to look ok. Or it's the Y-cable from the alternator/starter/+ post.
-
I believed that he did but now I'm certainly questioning that. I'll call them on Monday to check. They brag about their ability to diagnose electrical issues because they have a side business which deals solely with hybrid/electric cars....I'll be annoyed if they didn't test this properly.
-
Here's another update. I simply didn't have time to do testing on my own so my local Indy did it for only $45. They concluded it was a weak alternator. I figured it could still be a bad regulator but thought it was probably worth my time to simply replace the whole thing if I'm going to the trouble of taking it out. So I ordered a remanufactured Bosch unit and installed it today. When I got out the old alternator, I noticed it said Bosch and had the Porsche part number 997.603.012.7. Why in the world would the previous owner install a 997 alternator into a '99 996? Are they interchangeable? Additionally, I'm not sure the new alternator is performing any better. A cold start produced 14v, auto climate control turned on dropped it to about 13.4ish, and then additionally turning on my Litronics dropped it all to about 12.5v. I'll keep an eye on it for a week or so and see how it's starting performance is. If my problems continue, then I guess it's likely the starter/alternator cable.
-
Forgive my ignorance on this, but what "rollers" are you referring to?
-
Ok thanks. Appreciate the help.
-
PM sent. Thanks!
-
My parts guy is well known in the 928 world. He's attmepting to order me a new alternator for my 1999 996 with 6 speed but he is getting conflicting info from suppliers. I understand that there is a difference between an alternator with a clutch (for manual cars) and one without (for automatics). Two of his suppliers are saying that my car doesn't need the clutched alternator because it is a 1999 and none of them had it until 2000. Has anyone heard this before? All info I've seen says that there is no differentiation between a 6 speed '99, '00, or '01. Thanks.
-
Would love to know as well. I installed a cabriolet M490 amp in my coupe and all works well aside from having to slightly modify the female connector.
-
So here's the latest. Due to work commitments I haven't been able run any tests on the system. But I have tinkered with a few things during my commutes. First, I have DriveSense from eSurance which plugs into the OBD port and monitors driving behavior for potential insurance discounts. I had noticed that it would be warm after the car had sat, even after many days. It appears this gizmo was drawing a fair amount of juice and draining the battery to some degree. So I've since unplugged it and the car seems to perform better during cold starts. The second thing I've noticed is with the power draw by the climate control. If I start the car and turn off the climate control, the dash voltmeter instantly jumps to 14v. If I turn the climate control back on, the needle drops to about 13 to 13.5v. If I then additionally turn on the headlights (Litronics), the volts drop to about 12.5 to 13 while at idle. Is this sort of power draw, particularly from the climate control, normal?
-
Thanks for that link. I'll do the tests and see what comes up.
-
Posted on Rennlist but figured this is a better place for this. A poster over there suggested it might be a ground issue. My 996 has started to give me trouble with starting recently. I've done many forum searches but can't seem to find any posts matching my issue. When I start my car, whether it's hot or cold, the starter engages but sounds like it barely has enough electrical power to start the car. One time it failed to start the car and started making clicking noises and I had to jump the car to get it going. Otherwise on the rest of the starts it simply sounds like it's struggling. At idle, the battery is getting 13.2 volts from the alternator. The battery is 1 month old and was tested yesterday to ensure that it wasn't the cause of the issue. The battery test reported that the battery was low on charge and needed to be charged up in order to be tested, which makes me suspect it's the alternator. At highway speeds, the voltmeter in the car reads around 13.5 volts. Service history on the alternator, starter, and ignition switch are unknown to me. Accessory belt is about 4 years old and appears to be in good condition. Any thoughts?
