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IslaTurbine

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Everything posted by IslaTurbine

  1. Fair enough. I’ve been on and off RennTech over the years and know you’re very well versed and respected on these types of things. But out of sheer curiosity, how can a five chain motor have a cam skip if only one actuator is changed at a time? The cams are interlinked so I don’t understand how there’s any risk. Zombie thread bumps can be head scratchers, but I also hate having a solid question go unanswered. 🍻
  2. My understanding is that only 3-chain engines must have the cams locked. Locking the crank at TDC will suffice for a 5-chain engine. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will jump in to confirm.
  3. Update: I pulled the driver side door panel off to return the crappy aftermarket speakers back to stock. When doing so I noticed that the door airbag wire harness had detached due to a cracked connector. I was able to repair and reattach it. A local shop cleared the light with a scan tool and it has stayed off!
  4. The passenger seatbelt was my initial thought and the tech was familiar with that common issue. My front passenger seat sometimes triggers the light and I figured it would be the culprit in this instance. But I don’t think the 28 code is related to that. I used to live on an island and flew turbine aircraft, hence IslaTurbine. Not very original I guess. ?
  5. Btw, “drivers side airbag” refers to the airbag in the driver side door? Or the airbag in the driver steering wheel?
  6. Thanks Loren. Any tips on how to test the wiring in order to determine if it or the airbag is at fault?
  7. So I had an airbag light pop up recently. The tech who read the code wrote down “drivers airbag circuit." The light won’t clear so it’s obviously an active fault. I recently replaced the entire ignition switch and steering lock assembly. The light came on a few days after the repair so I’m not sure if it could be possibly related. The car is a 1999 996. The only thing I can seem to find via searching is that a code 28 is related to the driver's door airbag? Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  8. This thread was a big help but I have a few pointers to add after changing out the lock assembly today. 1. As with others on here, I recommend removing the instrument gauge pod to give yourself more access. But you also need to make sure that you extend the steering wheel all of the way aft towards the seat. This is the only way that I could figure out that gave me enough room to access the area behind the steering wheel (due to the lower plastic shielding that is loose but not able to be completely removed). 2. I used needle nose vice grips to hold on to the open end of a 10mm wrench to loosen/tighten the nut on the 10mm bolt. I used the box end of the wrench to securely hold the 10mm nut in place. 3. The electronic wiring that connects to the ignition assembly is both purple and black. The purple doesn't separate from the black in order to remove the wire harness. The black portion is what detaches from the rear of the ignition assembly. 4. When reinstalling the left dash vent, make sure the vent dial is "Up" (open). If you try to reinstall this assembly with the dial "down" (closed), the lever arm on the left side of the assembly will be in the way of the dash structure and it won't allow it to fit in. 5. I too removed the inner (silver) light switch mechanism from the left vent assembly before attempting to reinstall the vent. You'll need a 24mm socket or similar in order to remove the large nut that retains the switch to the vent assembly. I'm not sure that removing this mechanism from the vent assembly was totally necessary so your mileage may vary. 6. Lastly, my ignition key pinhole was at the 1 o'clock position like others on here. After installing the new ignition mechanism, I was unable to get my key to turn on the ignition of the car when I reinstalled it with the pinhole at the 7 o'clock position. I don't know what the issue was, but it worked perfectly when I changed it back to the 1 o'clock position again.
  9. Is a copper crush washer acceptable to use on the M96 with the LN Magnetic Plug? I have never used one but a local shop supplied me some new copper ones and acted like he was doing me a favor since they were copper. I’m a little hesitant to use them....
  10. I don’t believe so. I think all that can be done is to remove the bulb behind the dash.
  11. Update: I was able to take extra length of wire from the #2 and #5 connector wires to create my own wire for the seventh one that I was missing. I then fabricated a connector pin from a computer cable and attached it to the new wire, soldered the wire ends of those three wires together, and got the new pin to seat in the connector assembly. Put it all back together, got the car up to 80 mph and no more spoiler warning light. Fixed!
  12. Ok thanks for taking a look. I guess I'll just have to continue scratching my head as my harness is clearly missing a wire. Plus I've noticed that the wing has all of the markings of an OEM piece (imbedded PD and Turnwald lettering, not a sticker) but it is missing the "Made In France" lettering next to it. The car has all of the other factory stickers under the lid and is a '99 but was built in October 1998. I'm wondering if it that could make a difference? Additionally, the car has "XAA" on the underhood sticker. Looks like the correct wiring harness has "appreciated" in value over the years. The cheapest I can find is close to $300. Crazy.
  13. Loren, I've been corresponding with another factory-installed aero kit owner. He has 7 wires coming out of his connector whereas I only have 6. If you still have your aero kit 996, is there any chance you could take a look and see how many wires are coming out of your connector? Thanks again.
  14. The upper left two pins have resistance to each other. These two pins are to the wires that I don't know where they run to. The upper right two pins have resistance to each other. These two wires run to the fan. The lower right to pins have resistance to each other. These two wires run to the light.
  15. Thanks for the reply, Loren. Earlier I did attempt to locate a part number on the wire harness but I didn't see one. Would you happen to know its location? I also looked for a jumper and didn't see one.... Thanks again. Your insights are appreciated.
  16. Bump to an old thread. I have a '99 996 with a factory-installed XAA code aero kit. The spoiler warning light never would come on no matter what and it turned out the dash bulb was blown. It has since been replaced and the light works as it should at low speed: it comes on a startup and disappears around 4 mph. My issue is that when I hit 75 mph, the spoiler warning light illuminates and doesn't go away until the car is shut off. Remember that this is a factory aero kit car. I checked the fan/light wire harness and it wasn't disconnected. I checked the pins for corrosion and everything looked nice and shiny. The harness has only 6 wires coming out of it: Two wires go to the deck fan, two go to the compartment light, and I can't seem to determine where the other two lead. Anyone have any thoughts? Much appreciated.
  17. I took out the cluster again to look, Loren. All the prongs look straight and clean. I took out the 3 LCD bulbs again (they are the ones with the tan base) and adjusted the metal prongs on each. It now appears one of the bulbs is blown as part of its filament is broken. It must have been at the end of its life and removing the gauge cluster killed it. I still don't understand why two LCDs were initially dead. It's possible the metal prongs on the bulb were loose. Looks like I'll have to order a new bulb, probably 3 just to be safe.
  18. In an effort to fix some blown warning lights, I removed the dash gauge cluster. I fixed the lights and reassembled everything and suddenly my left and center LCDs were no longer working. These were not lights that I had replaced. I disassembled it all again and swapped the bulb for the right LCD with the center LCD bulb and reassembled. Again, only the right LCD was working. If nothing else this verified that the bulb in the center LCD was not blown. I then took the car out for a drive and gave the gauge cluster a whack on the top of the unit. This caused the left LCD to start working again (along with the right LCD), but the center is still broken. Does anyone have any insight as to what could cause this type of behavior? Thanks!
  19. Thanks to your post I was able to replace my socket in less than 10 minutes!
  20. Old thread bump. So can the warning light bulbs be replaced separate from the black holder? Or is it all a single piece that must be order through Porsche?
  21. Well the DMF may have some wear, but the issue has been fixed for the most part. I had the transmission fluid changed; the old stuff that came out was black. I know that clutch fluid shouldn't have anything to do with clutch chatter, but it makes me think that the fluid was degraded or low enough that the DMF and clutch vibrations were getting transmitted through the driveline. Now she's all better.
  22. New and improved way to do this fix: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/870715-alternator-starter-cable-replacement-simplified.html
  23. I wish I knew. From all the pics I've seen, the corrosion on mine looks consistent with most of the other failed cables out there. It's likely a heat/crappy cable quality issue.
  24. I can't remember if there is a fuse on the amp, but did you remove the amp from the amp bracket? It could be hidden out of sight.
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