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Showing results for tags 'engine drop'.
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The 996 guys have different constraints & techniques for dropping the M96. The Boxster engine is unfortunately less accessible,more time consuming to remove but the need is often more compelling than for the 996 because of access issues. The big debate has always been drop the engine with or without the trans.- as single unit or separately. The choice can be influenced by equipment, experience or ignorance of the issues ! I am about to drop the engine for the 2nd time (!) and am determined to learn something new. Here is a proposal that needs critiquing by the experienced wrenchers among you. The 3 part video on YouTube "Jet 1" by Roaring Tigers is still the best engine drop video so far. They removed engine+trans but no suspension and used a 2 post lift + hydraulic table like other Pros.These links below give you the specifics, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZvWOZTa42E Spec Boxster Build Hydraulic Lift Cart -like this: https://www.amazon.com/Double-Scissor-Hydraulic-Capacity-Height/dp/B00P5UOCZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988397&sr=8-1&keywords=lift+cart+770 or https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-CART-1000-TS-Hydraulic-Elevating-Capacity/dp/B001VXWIS2 or http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-69148.html One of the problems with dropping the engine+trans as a complete unit is that the rear suspension cross member must be removed .This causes the rear suspension to "spread" apart.Solution - just use some very strong ratchet straps to pull it back together and get a 4 wheel alignment quickly after you reinstall the engine + trans.! The confusion in this "How to drop a Boxster engine" discussion is because we muddle the two big but distinct parts of the complete task of dropping. The part we probably agree on is that disconnecting all the hoses.cables ,connectors and linkages is best done with a 2 post lift.The next easy part is the unbolting of the front engine mount nuts and removal of the transmission mounts. The differences come in the lowering the liberated engine+trans from the car - safely. The big question is - if the engine+trans is still 6+ feet off the ground on a 2 post lift - how are you safely lowering it ? Last time I dropped the 6 speed gearbox and then the engine separately from 6 feet+ using a massive Wudel Trans jack- It worked but it is not designed for the 36"+ length of the combined engine+trans ( unbalanced fore/aft weight).It is designed for old domestic auto transmissions. Alternative - suppose the car isn't way up high - suppose it is at Hydraulic-Cart-height - around 36 - 48 " off the ground-like the Jet 1 video.Note they used a cart that was barely long enough. You would need to crawl (literally)around underneath to remove the front engine mount and 2 trans mounts(but easy). You also need to stay there while the cart is lowered or the lift raised to deal with all the hang-ups (requires a competent,reliable helper). Example of hang-ups - the fuel flow & return lines are hooked over the E-brake cable on the firewall, the brittle oil filler tube and the dipstick tube. These are examples of the tedious details seldom mentioned but are a real nuisance if you are unaware of them.Jet busted some of these. If you decide to try the hydraulic cart+ 2 post lift method - which cart did you buy and did it work well ? Hydraulic carts that are long enough for the engine+trans and have sufficient weight capacity are around $800(see links above) - I used as a benchmark- the "Vestil CART-1000-TS". It has a table length almost 48". You'll need to make a wood cradle to prevent the engine+trans rolling sideways off the cart and to avoid crushing the headers(separate post subject). The alternative to discuss is the HF Motorcycle Lift Table .No, not the little ATVJack that the 996 guys often use, the m/c Lift TABLE It is 1000 lbs capacity,with a coupon is $299 (search hard !)It is HF Item # 68892. !Motorcycle Lift Table, 1000 Lb. Capacity It has 4 big, steel, retractable casters, is plenty long(remove the flappy ramp- just 2 pins) and use the tire vise to clamp the trans. Problems - 1. It does not lift/lower exactly vertically.It moves diagonally. But it is on casters so no problem? 2. it is HF ! so get the warranty - or spend an extra $500 on the cart linked above ? 3. The HF 68892 is only 29" high max (see crawling above !) - so make a tall cradle that avoids the need to remove the headers.! Wood is cheap. 4.Where do you store it after use? Sell it for $300 and buy another if you need to? What do you think ? Have you used this exact method? What am I missing?