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The easiest straight line performance mod is to sell it and buy a Corvette Z06! :jump:

Unfortunately, there are no easy mods to significantly improve straight line performance. You can get improvements indirectly by fitting lighter wheels and/or seats. Minor improvements of maybe 5 or 6hp can be gained by replacing the airbox with a modified intake from people like FVD or EVO. This comes at the expense of MAF sensors which are easily fouled by the oiled filter. It is also not an easy install and it typically requires destroying the old airbox.

The other alternative is to shell out big buck$ for headers/ECU and maybe an exhaust.

DO NOT REPLACE THE EXHAUST BY ITSELF, unless you go with the GHL 5". Every other aftermarket exhaust will reduce your hp!

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news,

Graeme

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Cargraphic headers (or either FVD or Dansk), Cargraphic sport cats (or FVD), whatever your muffler of preference is (the "sport" ones only add about 3-4 hp), a 12 lb aluminum flywheel, bored throttle body, Unichip or an appropriately reburned Motronic, EVO intake, lighter racing shells (seats), lighter brakes (aluminum hats), leave the spare tire in the pits, and lose 25-30 lbs yourself.

It adds up quick in terms of dollars (personal weight loss is free, but time consuming). It's not like a turbo or supercharged car where you just give it more boost and more fuel and gain some horsepower.

If you do the headers, cats, muffler, ECU and EVO intake you will have about 302 hp, my friend Joe dynoed a Boxster S with those mods and thats what it had. The 12 lb flywheel will let your engine spin easier, I have one in mine and it's pretty cool. It's not as bad as people will tell you it is, as far as taking off in 1st gear. Where I notice clutch chatter is when I'm in reverse, like backing out of a parking spot and trying not to go fast.

If you want to go faster in a straight line, plan on spending $8-11k just on engine stuff, maybe $2800 or so on new seats if they are the Porsche/Recaros, plus about $6k on the racing brakes, although you can do what I'm doing on mine, I ordered Brembo F50 for the front (they are lighter with aluminum hats, plus they are 14" for better fade resistance) and leave the back ones alone. It's cheaper that way, $3200 or so.

One tip I know from experience, before your EVO is installed, wash it as best you can, those things are oversoaked with oil from the factory (EVO uses aFe filters), and let it dry overnight before use. Even then, there will still be oil in the filter which will probably coat your MAF, slowing you down because the MAF won't read the correct airflow. Order some spare filters that you can use while the others are drying from being cleaned. I use K&N RF-1039. You can clean the MAF to as-new working order with some 91% isopropyl alcohol and a Q-Tip. Another tip, to get the MAF out you need a tamper-proof Torx T-20 bit which you can get at Sears for $20 in a set. I ordered my spare K&N online but I can't remember where.

Here is the chart for K&N filters

http://www.knfilters.com/universal/univrndtap.htm

The aFe that comes with the EVO is a 5" base dia, 8" overall length, 3-1/2" top dia and fits on a 3" pipe.

Anyway, have fun, you can transfer your car into something pretty mean, have at it.

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Another thing to keep in mind, make sure the EVO intake box is tight against the side of the engine bay, if it's not, every kind of road dirt will get in there and clog your air filter. I lose 3/10ths and 4 mph in the 1/4-mile when my filter and MAF are dirty.

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