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At last we did the leak down test. It hard to give a clear diagnostic. The cylinder that was giving the problems was #5 so we started with this one. The air came out of the oil filler tube & the intake valves. My confusion comes when we did the same test on another cylinder #3 to be precise. And it did the same thing.

The compression number we got out of this cylinders on the tests we did a while back were 180psi on #5 and 220psi on #3.

This left me with more questions than answers.

Could it be the rings? Or a burned valve?

What test can I do so we could narrow down the problem? And get my car on the road again!

I miss my car!

I appreciate all the info you can give me thanks.

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We have to remember that we did the test adding oil to cylinder 5 and the problem disappeared for a little bit. As soon as the oil got burned out the problem came back.

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I was thinking of getting the engine down and replacing the rings and every part that is worn on cylinder 5.

What do you think?

Thanks again for your feed back. Having a car like this in this country is not easy we don't have any kind of support

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I think the car had the flu.

Today I used it and the engine failure wasn't there. The check engine light didn't turn on. It had all the power it normally has.

How can this happen? Now it got me thinking it's better to do what Logray told me in this chat.

To use the breakin oil for 200 miles and then replace.

I also thought that when I replace the oil I could use a slik 50 lube to see how this works.

If all this doesn't work then I'll take the engine down and open cylinder 5.

Can anyone give me some feedback on this. Thanks!

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Unless the car is still misfiring, and if it has great power and drives great it seems very extreme to me to completely tear it down and replace the piston rings. If this is a race car/track car, perhaps it might be worth it, otherwise I still say drive it until it really needs new piston rings (assuming it is not misfiring)..

I think there are still some steps to take first, for example, using a borescope to inspect the cylinder walls for scoring or other problems.

boroscope_image2.jpg

Perhaps trying another new spark plug.

If it is still misfiring, has the variocam system been checked thoroughly?

I would stay away from slick 50 since I've read bad things about that, but certainly it might be worth a try using SAE 30 break in oil for 200 miles or so, and try out these procedures:

http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm

Edited by logray

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