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New Clutch options?


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I have a 1999 C2 996 and when Im WFO and shift from 1st to 2nd, she is slipping for a few seconds and I can smell the clutch burning. I am wondering were everyone is getting thier clutches and about how much. My eninge is all stock... but I dont mind going a little overboard.

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Stay with the stock Sachs clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. There are plenty of experts that warn going aftermarket (example light weight) is not a wise decision without other internal engine components being beefed up and a high quality engine balance, harmonic pulley, etc.

You can buy a complete clutch kit on ebay for about $450 or less, dealer charges twice as much.

The DIY is fairly straight forward, and about the most expensive tool you'd need is a transmission jack if you don't own one (example harbor freight for about $70).

Most Indy repair shops will get you out the door for around $1500, whereas dealers are charging an extra grand on top of that.

While "your in there" have the AOS replaced ($100 part), and if you buy into the IMS bearing debacle, have the LNE retrofit kit installed ($600 part).

Edited by logray
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AOS? is this the rear main seal? Cause I am getting some leakage back there, But it hasnt left a drop on the garge floor yet. My 996 only has 46K? on it and I got it with 42K on it, So my guess is that previous owner wasnt great with the clutch cause i got an audi with 154K on it with the OEM clutch in it and I put all of them on it with no issues.

I was planning on the IMS bearing upgrade/update just for necessary piece of my mind. However I see lots of diffrent "upgrades" for it and a few tools to remove the old one

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AOS is the air oil separator, known to fail and dump oil down the intake.

Rear main seal. Old style (original) seal known to leak, new PTFE seal does not leak.

Clutches can last for 40k or 100k+ depending on how it's driven. There's a guy in a 986 on rennlist who has 250k on original clutch.

If you want peace of mind instead of retrofitting the bearing you can install the IMS Guardian which is a monitoring system that will warn you before/if your IMS bearing fails (and monitors other modes of failure as well).

There are only two upgrades for the IMS bearing. The LNE kit which is touted as the "best option". Pelican parts is releasing a kit soon that will be less expensive, but does need to be replaced more often.

There is a tool to remove the bearing, there are lock tools to hold the cams down. There are other tools required to lock flywheel and crank in place. Some bearings are harder to remove and require a different bearing extractor, sometimes a dremel, and sometimes a new IMS tube.

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K... bought a sachs K70246-01 kit off ebay....$439. Thanks settled.

Now for the rear main 997.101.212.00 ? Have I heard something about a specail tool or an allignment tool for this?

IMS bearing,..... whats the best tool to take one out.

And what happens when an oil separator fails?

Edited by superman_006
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The latest rear main seal is P/N 997 101 212 01.

You need a special tool to seat the RMS correctly. You can buy a "genuine" tool from flat6innovations.com for $300:

http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/product.php?productid=16268&cat=268&page=1

or make your own RMS tool:

http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18315

IMS bearing, use the tool kit available from LN Engineering. Good threads on the DIY here:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/549133-im-going-in-alone-lne-retrofit-bearing.html

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm

AIr oil seperator failure typically lots of white smoke out the exhaust, sometimes with CEL codes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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