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Help, broken hose

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Took the initiative of doing what you suggested before waiting for an answer. Drilled a bigger hole in the retaining arm and put the brass coupling through it. Think the retaining arm is to prevent the hose to touch the roller.

Thanks logray.


Edited by hi8ha
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Loray, do you know what is this inside the yellow square?

While working on the alternator had to disconnect the two hoses. When I went to reconnect them, the one inside the green oval that goes connected where the red circle is, the other end is not connected at all. Don't know if ti was like that before working on the alternator or I disconnected it by mistake.If it was disconnected before working on the alternator I have not experience and/or notice any malfunction. Tried to see where the other end goes connected but was not able to see.



Edited by hi8ha
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I had the same issue with that plastic coupling breaking when I tried to remove that hose. I had a spare hose coupler already on hand and did that with some tie wraps until I got the actual part from the dealer (a $5 part IIRC). Nice work.


Thats the change over valve for the intake resonsance flap, operated by vacuum at different RPMs.

The hose you are pointing out goes into the tube that operates the flap.

The hose in green goes into item 21 in the diagram below (click link):


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You can reconnect that hose "by feel" and using a mirror and light if you remove the throttle body and t-plenum just behind the T/B. Then reach into the back of the engine.

There is no danger, you can drive the car without having that hose connected, although power (or engine noise) might be a little down or abnormal.

Also with that hose disconnected the engine will have a small vacuum leak. You could temporarily plug/clamp the outlet circled in red to prevent the leak until you can fix it.

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When you do get the time, you should considering fixing it... but it's not critical, take your time if you've plugged it off.

When you remove the throttle body that will give you a good opportunity to very thoroughly clean it.

Then just pull the t-plenum behind it and you can reach around to re-attach that tube.

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Saw your writeup regarding the engine overhaul... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Better than the dealer, congrats.

Tried to remove the t-plenum but after loosing the hose clamps from the t-plenum there was no way to move the t-plenum out of the rubber coupling (?). It can not be moved to the side unless one of the intake manifolds (black plastic) is removed to have room to move the t-plenum. At least that is how I see it (I'm not a mechanic just mechanically oriented).

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The tplenum can be difficult to remove. Especially if it hasn't moved in some years. The best way to tackle this...

Wear mechanics gloves. Loosen only one of the clamps on one side of the plenum, doesn't matter which one.

Grab the plenum and try to rotate it up and down, it might take some force to break the rubber free.

One the rubber is freed, tighten that one and loosen another clamp.

Repeat the twisting action to free another rubber section.

Repeat, and once you've freed all of the sections that are clamped, loosen all the clamps off, then slide the rubber sleeves as far left and right as they can go.

Then pull the plenum out at an angle, it will deform the rubber and allow you to pull it out at roughly a 45 degree angle. It does take a little "muscle" to get it out, but once you've done it once you'll see how it works. Installation is the reverse. Be extremely careful once you have it back on to get a good seal on both of the rubber sleeves (you can use a mirror, flashlight, and look and feel inside of the plenum to make sure there are no air gaps, then tighten the clamps).

You can also help the entire procedure by heating up the engine either by driving it or artificially with a heat gun. The heat will help you move the tplenum.

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