Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sign in to follow this  

Recommended Posts

I’ve been doing research on the potential IMS and bore scoring issues for my 2007 911 S.  The news I’m finding for this MY is encouraging as most issues seem to favor MYs 2005-2006.  That’s not bullet proof but it’s consistent with sources such as Flat Six Innovations and Porscheinspections.com, etc.  Seems the bore issue is due to a couple of factors, one being cold starts.  As I mentioned in a previous post, it seems the best insurance is 6 month/6k oil changes and avoiding cold starts.  Assuming the oil has to come to temp to protect the engine how long does the car need to idle to be deemed “in the safe operating temp zone” (I realize outside temp factors in).  Also would the 3rd radiator mod be a good idea?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

That's just it. Don't let the car sit and idle. Turn the key, start the car, let it come off the high idle, maybe 60-90 seconds. And go. Keep the RPMs below 4,000 till the oil temps hits the 180s. Use a high quality Porsche A40 0W40 oil in the winter months.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 3rd rad is a good idea/mod for a track driven DE car, and/or a car that operates in very hot weather.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.