Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, WERE due Dec 4th, 2022. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Valentine 1 Hardwired Install

Recommended Posts

I just spent some time this weekend completing the hardwire install for my Valentine One. Thought I'd share what I did to help out some other people who will attempt this project in the future.

Tools to use:

1.) Wire stripper/wire cutter/crimper

2.) Tie wraps

3.) Blade Fuse Tap (optional)

4.) 10mm box wrench

5.) Credit card or some other plastic card

6.) multi-tester/voltmeter


1.) Decide where you would like to put the V1 unit. I do not have a remote display so I didn't have to worry about that portion of the install. I have decided to install mine on the upper passenger side windshield, just above and to the right of the rear view mirror. The reason I decided on that location is that I can flip down my passenger-side visor and most of the lights are hidden from the rear, but I can still see them from driver's seat. I don't think the visor has a high metal content so rear radar detection shouldn't be diminished (rear laser will not be detected though, but I don't worry about rear laser where i live).

2.) Decide where you would get power. I had to find something that was switched on and off with the ignition and decided to use the heated seats fuse. I bought a blade fuse tap which you can buy at a Radio Shack. This goes over one of the terminals of a blade fuse and gives you an easy connector to attach to. You can also use the included wire tap to tap into one of the wires. I'm not much for wire taps...so I didn't go through this (just personal preference). I ended up using the wire stripper to change the the male connector attached to the included hardwire kit power lead to a female connector so it attaches to the blade fuse tap nicely. test your new crimp by pulling slightly to make sure it is securely attached if you do change the terminal. Using a multimeter or voltmeter helps with figuring out where to get power.

3.) Decide where you are going to get ground. In my case, I found a bolt in the center console area (10mm) that was easy to get to after popping off the lower carpeted trim on the driver's side by pulling the side towards the front of car. The included V1 kit has a terminal that's too small for that bolt so I replaced it with a larger U-shape terminal. I think the included one can work also, but I had these bigger terminals lying around. I could've tried to find ground somewhere closer to the fuse box but since I had enough wire and it wasn't really in the way, I ran it this way. Check crimps!

4.) Plan how to run the wires. I decided to run the wires across the top of windshield (really easy to hide wires there), and then down the driver side A pillar, then down to the fuse box. I used a credit card (suggested by a friend) to help insert the wire between trim pieces and the glass. This was surprisingly easy and the wires are all hidden except for a about a 2-inch piece that attaches to the detector. Just put the wire next to the trim and use the card to push it in, and it's gone from sight!

5.) Test. Don't tidy up until you've tested it and it works. Mine involved just making sure the V1 turned on and off with the ignition.

6.) Tie wrap to get wires out of the way. For my install, i had to make sure that the wires running between fuse box and center console area were hidden and out of the way.

7.) Tidy up (put back trim pieces and fuse cover) and admire your work!

This took me something like 2 hours...which included several breaks, and also a lot of firsts...I have never popped trim pieces on this car so I didn't quite know where to pull (don't want to break any clips). I have also never installed a car stereo or anything like that. I've never hard-wired a V1 before... If I had to do it again, it wouldn't even take 30-45 minutes. Was even thinking of removing visors to get to A-pillar, so this included a trip to a friend's house nearby to borrow torx wrenches, which I didn't use since I didn't have to remove trim.

By the way, remember that there is an inline fuse so if later on, the radar detector doesn't have power, i'd check the fuse first. I marked where the inline fuse was by using brightly colored tie-wraps (and left it accessible without having to pop panels).

Also, if you don't have the radio code, don't disconnect the battery or pull the radio fuse!

Hope this helps with someone's install. It's so much nicer not to have the cigarette lighter plug dangling from the V1. Also, with visor down, it's harder to see the radar detector because the visor makes the detector less visible (it blends in with visor).


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.