Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
- OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sorry for the delay in replying. I guess I wimped out and went with new FEQ axles. I then left on a 400+ mile trip and everything was fine. Not much of a test and I know there is risk. But since my DE days are behind me, I am willing to accept.
Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would just bump this one. I took the car to an indie shop with whom I have moderate confidence. They want to replace the entire CV Axle Shaft Assembly with a new Porsche part. Total price is approximately $1,500 for the job. That seems more than a bit steep for both the labor and the part. Looking through the Pelican website I see two less expensive options. One complete axle assembly is made by DSS for $120 versus the Porsche part for $950. So, how good or bad is the DSS part? How hard is it to change out in the garage? Is there a recommended DIY? Alternatively, other than messy, how tough is it to repack with grease and install a new boot? Any other parts needed or makes the process easier? Any all thoughts on this are appreciated.
Rainy day here so I decided to go into the garage and install new rear drop links on my new-to-me 2001 Boxster S. Easy job, just make sure both rear wheels are jacked up. The issue is that when I removed the driver side rear wheel, I found what I initially thought was a great deal of old, dried oil on the inside of the wheel. But as I sat down to do the drop links I saw grease on the hub and it appears to be coming from behind the wheel hub nut. I went on the Pelican site and don't see a seal that could have ruptured. I have not touched the nut yet. What is the recommended torque setting? Should there be a cotter pin? Should I remove it first and add wheel grease? THANKS!
I found a decent looking 2001 Boxster S 1500 miles from home. After a lot of pictures and a PPI at the local dealer, I bought her. Arctic silver on black, about 49k on the clock, and a new IMS and clutch. Among other things, I am having the dealer do a brake flush, oil change and a new serpentine belt. Also adding new tires. My question is what do I need to pick up for any road side emergencies? Already have AAA. I am thinking maybe an extra relay or 2? If so, which ones? And I'll have to get anything Porsche specific at the dealer as there is not enough time to order from someplace like Pelican. Suggestions are most welcome.
Thanks to both of you for a cold dose of reality. I knew I should not get excited about the car, but it ticked so many boxes for me. Here is a real, unaltered text conversation I had last week with a different car owner. All too common and disappointing. Me: Hello. I am looking at your 996 on Autotrader. Is it still available? Seller: I don’t have a 996. Me: 911? Seller: Yes. Me: Ok, thanks. 996 is the model designation for 911’s made between 1999-2004. Me: Has the IMS been changed. Seller: No Me: How long have you owned the car and do you have service records? Seller: I have owned the car for 6 years. It required tune up at 60,000 miles. That is all it has needed since I owned it. I don’t have those records but I can get them. Me: Oil and filter done at least once per year? Seller: Probably did it 3 times. Didn’t put a lot of miles on it. Only drove it a few months per year. Me: Thanks for your time and candor. Nice looking car. You should find a new home for it quickly. -End of conversation-
I hope this is the right forum. If not, would the moderators please delete. I am looking at rejoining the water cooled world again. For a number of reasons I have settled on a Boxster S. As a long time Porsche owner (40+ years) during my search I have been very surprised by the not only the lack of maintenance many of these cars are receiving but the nonchalance about it by the owners. There is one car I have come across (2005) that checks almost all the boxes for me except one. The current owner has no maintenance records, period. He has owned the car for 6 years and 19,000 miles. He has only done 3 oil and filter changes during that time. Am I being overly sensitive about the frequency of change or is this really a problem waiting to happen? Thanks!
HalM replied to Hella-buggin''s topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)AD08R's are great tires but not in the zip code of slicks. Have you you dropped the oil pan to make sure everything nice and tight with 'no other obstructions?
HalM replied to Hella-buggin''s topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Early oil issues on the 996 occurred on the track in long left hand sweepers when the car was on true race slicks. That does not include R-888's NT-01's, or street tires as they could not generate enough G-forces to cause starvation. Since you are having a problem with right handers and on street tires, I would say you have an internal oil system issue. Have you posted over on one of the Racing and DE forums? These are the guys that may know a lot more on the topic. Good luck with your problem and keep us posted.
A quick summary for those that may be interested. Taking apart the console will be tough the first time. Should be pretty easy if you go back in for any reason. I think total reassembly time took 20'ish minutes today. My car now shifts better than at any time I have owned it. Is it "snick-snick" smooth and quick? No. But it is close to my BMW 335i 6-speed and on par with a 996 I owned a few years ago. Well worth the time and effort. JFP, THANKS AGAIN!
JFP, For anyone that comes across this thread on adjusting the shift cable, the most important piece of advice I can offer is to make sure the car is in NEUTRAL before you unhook the cables to start the adjustment. Which brings me to my question. With the console apart, can I test drive the car, or will it throw a lot of faults? Thanks!
Thanks agin. The tool is on order from Suncoast and I will report back either way.
That is the exact info I was looking for. Thanks!