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About HalM

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
    Williamsburg, VA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 997
  • Future cars
    Boxster S
  • Former cars
    1999 996
    2005 997
    1996 993
    1980 911 SC
    1970 911 E
    1973 914 2.0 (three of them)

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  1. Thought I would just revisit this thread and not start a new one. I had a new clutch installed in my car this week. And yes, I do have the final, non-serviceable bearing! 🙂 We also removed the grease seal as Charles recommended. My serial number is M96/03S66540669 so if yours is a higher number, then you too probably have the fixed bearing. Hope this helps someone when looking.
  2. Thanks DB and Charles. There is so much paranoia in the M96 world, I wanted to be sure I was reading the tea leafs correctly. Much appreciate. Hal
  3. Guys, I hate to bring up an old topic, but I think I may have a new twist and need clarification. My car is a 2004 911 40th Anniversary edition. Thus, it has the X51 package. It suffered an IMS failure under warranty and was replaced in 2006 by a Porsche dealer. This is documented, not word of mouth. The serial number on the new engine is M96/03S665…. The “S” means it is a X51 package. But, it is not M96/03SAT665… with the “AT” signifying a remanufactured motor. Did Porsche ever replace motors with brand new, not remanufactured units? This is my 4th M96 car and I have no complaints. The car is the best of the water cooled I have owned. Just trying to figure out this serial number oddity. THANKS!
  4. Thought I would report back and let everyone know that I did, in fact, buy a 996 with a replacement motor, with 665 in the serial number. But I ended up with an '04, 40th Anniversary Edition. The X51 package is really sweet! Thanks again for all the help on sorting out the various replacement motors.
  5. Loren, do you also think since it was made in 2005 that it is probably the non-serviceable bearing?
  6. Just got the serial number: M96/03AT66567622 Appreciate the help.
  7. Thanks JFP! Very much appreciated. I will ask for the serial number shortly.
  8. Thanks for the reply, DB. I just double checked the dealer invoice and it does not have the serial number. I will ask the seller to get the serial number off the car so I can post later. That said, my question is: Did the factory replace failed motors with exactly what came out of the car, or did they start using the non-serviceable unit across the board? I have seen both as statements of fact from folks I hold in high regard. Just trying to figure out who is right as it will impact how I approach a car that is for sale.
  9. I suspect this has been beat to death, but my search skills didn’ find an answer. I am looking at buying a 2003 base 911. In 2008, it has a IMS failure and the the engine was replaced at the dealer under warranty. Invoice from said work is available. My question is: Which IMS would the factory have installed? I have seen 1.) the same IMS as was originally shipped with the car/motor, and 2.) all replacement motors build after 2006 had the non-serviceable / 997 style IMS. The last thread I can find anywhere is from 2014. Any new info added in the last 4 years? Thanks!
  10. Sorry for the delay in replying. I guess I wimped out and went with new FEQ axles. I then left on a 400+ mile trip and everything was fine. Not much of a test and I know there is risk. But since my DE days are behind me, I am willing to accept.
  11. Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would just bump this one. I took the car to an indie shop with whom I have moderate confidence. They want to replace the entire CV Axle Shaft Assembly with a new Porsche part. Total price is approximately $1,500 for the job. That seems more than a bit steep for both the labor and the part. Looking through the Pelican website I see two less expensive options. One complete axle assembly is made by DSS for $120 versus the Porsche part for $950. So, how good or bad is the DSS part? How hard is it to change out in the garage? Is there a recommended DIY? Alternatively, other than messy, how tough is it to repack with grease and install a new boot? Any other parts needed or makes the process easier? Any all thoughts on this are appreciated.
  12. Thanks Jeff. Appreciate the input.
  13. Rainy day here so I decided to go into the garage and install new rear drop links on my new-to-me 2001 Boxster S. Easy job, just make sure both rear wheels are jacked up. The issue is that when I removed the driver side rear wheel, I found what I initially thought was a great deal of old, dried oil on the inside of the wheel. But as I sat down to do the drop links I saw grease on the hub and it appears to be coming from behind the wheel hub nut. I went on the Pelican site and don't see a seal that could have ruptured. I have not touched the nut yet. What is the recommended torque setting? Should there be a cotter pin? Should I remove it first and add wheel grease? THANKS!
  14. Thanks TxHokie! I guess my paranoia from years of air-cooled ownership bleed through a bit.
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