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Everything posted by HalM

  1. Thought I would just revisit this thread and not start a new one. I had a new clutch installed in my car this week. And yes, I do have the final, non-serviceable bearing! 🙂 We also removed the grease seal as Charles recommended. My serial number is M96/03S66540669 so if yours is a higher number, then you too probably have the fixed bearing. Hope this helps someone when looking.
  2. Thanks DB and Charles. There is so much paranoia in the M96 world, I wanted to be sure I was reading the tea leafs correctly. Much appreciate. Hal
  3. Guys, I hate to bring up an old topic, but I think I may have a new twist and need clarification. My car is a 2004 911 40th Anniversary edition. Thus, it has the X51 package. It suffered an IMS failure under warranty and was replaced in 2006 by a Porsche dealer. This is documented, not word of mouth. The serial number on the new engine is M96/03S665…. The “S” means it is a X51 package. But, it is not M96/03SAT665… with the “AT” signifying a remanufactured motor. Did Porsche ever replace motors with brand new, not remanufactured units? This is my 4th M96 car and I ha
  4. Thought I would report back and let everyone know that I did, in fact, buy a 996 with a replacement motor, with 665 in the serial number. But I ended up with an '04, 40th Anniversary Edition. The X51 package is really sweet! Thanks again for all the help on sorting out the various replacement motors.
  5. Loren, do you also think since it was made in 2005 that it is probably the non-serviceable bearing?
  6. Just got the serial number: M96/03AT66567622 Appreciate the help.
  7. Thanks JFP! Very much appreciated. I will ask for the serial number shortly.
  8. Thanks for the reply, DB. I just double checked the dealer invoice and it does not have the serial number. I will ask the seller to get the serial number off the car so I can post later. That said, my question is: Did the factory replace failed motors with exactly what came out of the car, or did they start using the non-serviceable unit across the board? I have seen both as statements of fact from folks I hold in high regard. Just trying to figure out who is right as it will impact how I approach a car that is for sale.
  9. I suspect this has been beat to death, but my search skills didn’ find an answer. I am looking at buying a 2003 base 911. In 2008, it has a IMS failure and the the engine was replaced at the dealer under warranty. Invoice from said work is available. My question is: Which IMS would the factory have installed? I have seen 1.) the same IMS as was originally shipped with the car/motor, and 2.) all replacement motors build after 2006 had the non-serviceable / 997 style IMS. The last thread I can find anywhere is from 2014. Any new info added in the last 4
  10. Sorry for the delay in replying. I guess I wimped out and went with new FEQ axles. I then left on a 400+ mile trip and everything was fine. Not much of a test and I know there is risk. But since my DE days are behind me, I am willing to accept.
  11. Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would just bump this one. I took the car to an indie shop with whom I have moderate confidence. They want to replace the entire CV Axle Shaft Assembly with a new Porsche part. Total price is approximately $1,500 for the job. That seems more than a bit steep for both the labor and the part. Looking through the Pelican website I see two less expensive options. One complete axle assembly is made by DSS for $120 versus the Porsche part for $950. So, how good or bad is the DSS part? How hard is it to change out i
  12. Thanks Jeff. Appreciate the input.
  13. Rainy day here so I decided to go into the garage and install new rear drop links on my new-to-me 2001 Boxster S. Easy job, just make sure both rear wheels are jacked up. The issue is that when I removed the driver side rear wheel, I found what I initially thought was a great deal of old, dried oil on the inside of the wheel. But as I sat down to do the drop links I saw grease on the hub and it appears to be coming from behind the wheel hub nut. I went on the Pelican site and don't see a seal that could have ruptured. I have not touched the nut yet. What is the rec
  14. Thanks TxHokie! I guess my paranoia from years of air-cooled ownership bleed through a bit.
  15. I found a decent looking 2001 Boxster S 1500 miles from home. After a lot of pictures and a PPI at the local dealer, I bought her. Arctic silver on black, about 49k on the clock, and a new IMS and clutch. Among other things, I am having the dealer do a brake flush, oil change and a new serpentine belt. Also adding new tires. My question is what do I need to pick up for any road side emergencies? Already have AAA. I am thinking maybe an extra relay or 2? If so, which ones? And I'll have to get anything Porsche specific at the dealer as there is not enough time to
  16. Could not agree more. My first step in vetting a car is the owner. You are buying the owner, not the car.
  17. Thanks to both of you for a cold dose of reality. I knew I should not get excited about the car, but it ticked so many boxes for me. Here is a real, unaltered text conversation I had last week with a different car owner. All too common and disappointing. Me: Hello. I am looking at your 996 on Autotrader. Is it still available? Seller: I don’t have a 996. Me: 911? Seller: Yes. Me: Ok, thanks. 996 is the model designation for 911’s made between 1999-2004. Me: Has the IMS been changed. Seller: No Me: How long hav
  18. I hope this is the right forum. If not, would the moderators please delete. I am looking at rejoining the water cooled world again. For a number of reasons I have settled on a Boxster S. As a long time Porsche owner (40+ years) during my search I have been very surprised by the not only the lack of maintenance many of these cars are receiving but the nonchalance about it by the owners. There is one car I have come across (2005) that checks almost all the boxes for me except one. The current owner has no maintenance records, period. He has owned the car for 6 years
  19. AD08R's are great tires but not in the zip code of slicks. Have you you dropped the oil pan to make sure everything nice and tight with 'no other obstructions?
  20. Early oil issues on the 996 occurred on the track in long left hand sweepers when the car was on true race slicks. That does not include R-888's NT-01's, or street tires as they could not generate enough G-forces to cause starvation. Since you are having a problem with right handers and on street tires, I would say you have an internal oil system issue. Have you posted over on one of the Racing and DE forums? These are the guys that may know a lot more on the topic. Good luck with your problem and keep us posted.
  21. A quick summary for those that may be interested. Taking apart the console will be tough the first time. Should be pretty easy if you go back in for any reason. I think total reassembly time took 20'ish minutes today. My car now shifts better than at any time I have owned it. Is it "snick-snick" smooth and quick? No. But it is close to my BMW 335i 6-speed and on par with a 996 I owned a few years ago. Well worth the time and effort. JFP, THANKS AGAIN!
  22. JFP, For anyone that comes across this thread on adjusting the shift cable, the most important piece of advice I can offer is to make sure the car is in NEUTRAL before you unhook the cables to start the adjustment. Which brings me to my question. With the console apart, can I test drive the car, or will it throw a lot of faults? Thanks!
  23. Thanks agin. The tool is on order from Suncoast and I will report back either way.
  24. That is the exact info I was looking for. Thanks!
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